SS 10er suddenly will not start

[JPG]

Different? A bit. Only two wires then(no ground).

Off topic? Yeah since voms were introduced.

What has been missing is recent response from the initial poster.


I consider one who has obtained a SS is likely more inclined to DIY fixing than some others that are likely to need professional assistance.

P.S. recall the original question was "do I replace the cord and switch". We are dealing with a 10ER and possible a 50 year old cord and switch. I believe the appropriate answer is absolutely. Then if the inactive state persists, further determination of why is relevant. 'He' indicated an intent to obtain a 'tester'.

I think the current discussion is more off base than off topic and will not assist him getting it up and running. We can only wait for response from 'him'.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Funny thing about electrons. You can't see them, hear them, smell them, taste them, or even feel them (unless the voltage is high enough to shock you). So your normal human senses are pretty much useless for figuring out what the little buggars are up to.

Which explains why you generally need instruments to work on electrical stuff. But to JPG's point, for relatively simple circuits, it is very often possible to deduce the cause of failures by using simple functional tests/experiments.

[reible]

Funny thing about electrons. You can't see them, hear them, smell them, taste them, or even feel them (unless the voltage is high enough to shock you). So your normal human senses are pretty much useless for figuring out what the little buggars are up to.

Which explains why you generally need instruments to work on electrical stuff. But to JPG's point, for relatively simple circuits, it is very often possible to deduce the cause of failures by using simple functional tests/experiments.

I've always relied on a visual inspection in these cases. Like when I got my 10ER the previous owner said it didn't seem to have any strength anymore. When I took it apart it was pretty easy to see that one of the wires to the switch was down to just a couple of strands. By then I had it pretty much apart so while I know the motor runs it has not been loaded by me. My hope is that when I put it back together with new cords(and new switch) that it will work fine.

I had planned to take the motor apart but I could not get it to separate, to dinged up and with little to grab on to I went to plan B which is to get it put back together and hope for the best.

Even at work we did visual inspections first and when from there. It was interesting how many times you can see the problem. It doesn't always help to easter egg hunt which is what we called grabbing a new cord and switch and installing them. You might end up doing that anyway like I plan to but that is just part of a rebuild rather then necessarily a repair.

Ed

[dusty]

I just hope that either a new switch or cord constitutes repair.

I found this old thread on this subject. Thought it was good reading but ....well, you read it and tell me!

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/commu ... 13170.html

[rswaty]

Wow this is great! OK, here's where things stand on my end:
1. I have used a volt-ohm meter tons on DC items (such as cars), but will need to read/learn for use on AC. I am relatively new to the Evanston, IL area and do not have anyone to consult in person yet, so will be moving slowly with any testing. Partly for safety, and partly to make sure I get the correct diagnoses.
2. I have replaced a number of cords and switches successfully on other items so will do so with this beautiful SS.
3. I ordered a nice switch from a gentleman on this forum (and also found one at the local Ace which I purchased as a back up). I also have a 14g three prong extension cord I will sacrifice for this.

I hope to replace the really old looking cord and switch this weekend which will be rewarding even if I do not solve the problem. Based on your comments and my experience, the suddenness, and absolute great sound of the motor before it suddenly quit I am hopeful that a cord/plug/switch replacement will do the trick.

Thanks tons everyone- Safety first!

Randy

[dusty]

To check the cord and switch for continuity in the "on" position requires only an ohm meter. I assume that you have done that and confirmed your original suspicions as well as those of the membership.

Good luck with all your future endeavors and welcome to the forum.

[JPG]

One thing you need to think about is providing a strain relief(method to secure the internal end of the cord).

You will need to improvise. A simple cable clamp and screw(need to drill a hole?)will be better than the switch termination proving that strain relief.

[dusty]

One thing you need to think about is providing a strain relief(method to secure the internal end of the cord).

You will need to improvise. A simple cable clamp and screw(need to drill a hole?)will be better than the switch termination proving that strain relief.

Or he could go to ACE Hardware and get the real thing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Heco+St ... f&tbm=shop

[JPG]

One thing you need to think about is providing a strain relief(method to secure the internal end of the cord).

You will need to improvise. A simple cable clamp and screw(need to drill a hole?)will be better than the switch termination proving that strain relief.

Or he could go to ACE Hardware and get the real thing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Heco+St ... f&tbm=shop

Sure!

Now where on the cast iron headstock do you suggest boring the hole to mount any of them(keep in mind the thickness of the cast iron)?

[jsburger]

One thing you need to think about is providing a strain relief(method to secure the internal end of the cord).

You will need to improvise. A simple cable clamp and screw(need to drill a hole?)will be better than the switch termination proving that strain relief.

A strain relief is certainly desirable and really needed IMHO. However, no need for a cable clamp and drilling and taping a hole (where?) for the screw. A simple nylon zip tie or two is all that is needed. Notice I have a second zip tie on the two cables above the one on the motor mount.

Also make sure you use a power cord with a ground. I use 12 gauge but 14 gauge should be fine in this application. I attached the ground wire to one of the motor mount bolts after removing the paint under the washer. I checked continuity every where on the machine including the quill shaft and it was fine.