Incra Box Joint

[jsburger]

If one never tilts the table while using the I-Box is there a reason for being concerned - right tilt/left tilt?

I've been thinking about this since I first read the instructions and I just do not understand. Reible posted a picture of the blade with the table tilted. That must mean something or he would not have put it in a post about the I-Box.

It has to do with the side of the blade the nut is on. Actually the other side of the blade that is a reference when using variable width cuts(dado etc.) As the kerf width is increased, the reference side does not move.

In the case of the shopsmith, the reference side is to the left which is the same as a tilt arbor blade that tilts left(nut on the right).

No the jig is not used in 'bevel cut' mode.

I have some doubts about the validity of this statement. When you change the width of the pins both pin plates move. With some experience (of which I have none right now) I may need to eat those words. It also depends on what you call the "reference surface".

There is a reference surface for every saw blade. That is the arbor. On a regular table saw with left tilt that is the left side of the blade. With a right tilt table saw the reference surface is on the right. The SS reference surface is the same as a left tilt table saw since the arbor is on the left.

Yes that is true. That is why you have the red knob. Your saw blade, dado OR what ever cuts an accurate same dimension width. Kiss. The red knob allows you to adjust the fit the pins in the fixed slots that your saw blade cut.

It is a bit of a learning curve. Yes the pictures are a bit confusing. Does it work, absolutely!!!

Give it a chance, learn it and it will produce beautiful results.

[JPG]

If one never tilts the table while using the I-Box is there a reason for being concerned - right tilt/left tilt?

I've been thinking about this since I first read the instructions and I just do not understand. Reible posted a picture of the blade with the table tilted. That must mean something or he would not have put it in a post about the I-Box.

It has to do with the side of the blade the nut is on. Actually the other side of the blade that is a reference when using variable width cuts(dado etc.) As the kerf width is increased, the reference side does not move.

In the case of the shopsmith, the reference side is to the left which is the same as a tilt arbor blade that tilts left(nut on the right).

No the jig is not used in 'bevel cut' mode.

I have some doubts about the validity of this statement. When you change the width of the pins both pin plates move. With some experience (of which I have none right now) I may need to eat those words. It also depends on what you call the "reference surface".

The "reference" side of the blade is that which does not move as the kerf is widened by adding chippers/shims.

However on a SS there exist things which make that less than absolute(quill stop, arbor mounting, table[carriage] positioning).

For that reason with a SS the jig must be 'zeroed' each time it is mounted.

Yes Dusty both 'fingers' move but at a 2:1 ratio of distance. The 'zero reference' is fixed once 'zeroed'.

Also the jig is adjusted for kerf width when that is changed. Thus there are two 'kiss' adjustments - kiss the left side of the blade(aka reference) and kiss the kerf width finger with the other side of the blade.
(not sure that is an accurate description, but it is required).

IIUC the 'far finger provides a stop for a previously cut notch as a setup for the next cut and moves twice the distance as the right side touching finger when the kerf width is adjusted. I am ignoring the 'fine tuning' adjustment.

[rjent]

Since I started this thread, I thought I would add one more thing. As I posted in the "other" thread on the Ibox:

This is the most incredible addon I have bought so far. I got mine in yesterday (I was out of town) watched the video last night twice to drill in my pea brain how to put it together. Made a quick box this morning after putting the jig together .... a perfect 1/8 inch finger joint box the first time.

To say the least, I am impressed!

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I have used it and made a box in 30 mins. What can I say, for a raw beginner, it made it easy ....

These pictures are raw, no sanding, no trimming, just as they came off the jig ....

ibox first box 01.jpg (139.24 KiB) Viewed 10396 times

ibox first box 02.jpg (125.97 KiB) Viewed 10396 times

ibox first box 03.jpg (120.37 KiB) Viewed 10396 times

[algale]

Look like I'll have to get one of thee net time they go on sale.

[dusty]

There is no argument about the I-Box working exactly as advertised. The hard part (the time consuming part) of making box joints has always been getting the pins and tails of equal width. The way the I-Box works, that becomes almost a totally mute issue.

However, I will have to wait until I have made a few before I become willing to say that it makes 'perfect joints every time'.

Like with the Shopsmith, when you have completed setup make certain that the locks are locked.

[dusty]

There is no argument about the I-Box working exactly as advertised. The hard part (the time consuming part) of making box joints has always been getting the pins and tails of equal width. The way the I-Box works, that becomes almost a totally mute issue.

However, I will have to wait until I have made a few before I become willing to say that it makes 'perfect joints every time'.

Like with the Shopsmith, when you have completed setup make certain that the locks are locked.

It has to do with the side of the blade the nut is on. Actually the other side of the blade that is a reference when using variable width cuts(dado etc.) As the kerf width is increased, the reference side does not move.

In the case of the shopsmith, the reference side is to the left which is the same as a tilt arbor blade that tilts left(nut on the right).

No the jig is not used in 'bevel cut' mode.

I have some doubts about the validity of this statement. When you change the width of the pins both pin plates move. With some experience (of which I have none right now) I may need to eat those words. It also depends on what you call the "reference surface".

The "reference" side of the blade is that which does not move as the kerf is widened by adding chippers/shims.

However on a SS there exist things which make that less than absolute(quill stop, arbor mounting, table[carriage] positioning).

For that reason with a SS the jig must be 'zeroed' each time it is mounted.

Yes Dusty both 'fingers' move but at a 2:1 ratio of distance. The 'zero reference' is fixed once 'zeroed'.

Also the jig is adjusted for kerf width when that is changed. Thus there are two 'kiss' adjustments - kiss the left side of the blade(aka reference) and kiss the kerf width finger with the other side of the blade.
(not sure that is an accurate description, but it is required).

IIUC the 'far finger provides a stop for a previously cut notch as a setup for the next cut and moves twice the distance as the right side touching finger when the kerf width is adjusted. I am ignoring the 'fine tuning' adjustment.

Yes, the arbor/blade establishes the reference surface. But you must understand that while I am sitting here at my computer there is no reference surface (at least no reference system that involves either the blade or the arbor). I am still able to perform valid adjustments to the I-Box.

These three images show the I-Box sitting at my computer table. In the first image, the end of the ruler depicts the "reference surface". That reference will be altered by absolutely any and every adjustment that I might make to the I-Box. However, I can return to this exact location without referencing the arbor or the blade.

[c2h6o]

A review on the SS website for the Incra jig makes reference.... if the table saw tilts to the right to install the jig on the right and if it tilts to the left then install on the left. The Shopsmith tilts to the right but the jig doesn't work if installed on the right--needs to be installed on the left. Can anyone explain to me why this is?

[algale]

Presumably because the instructions are written by Incra and refer to saws where the blade tilts vs. the Shopsmith where it is the table that tilts.

To confuse matters more, the Shopsmith table actually tilts both directions -- 0 to 45 degrees down right for cutting bevels and 0 to 90 degrees down left (the drill press position). To confuse matters even more, when you tilt the table down to the right side of the table to cut a bevel, from the perspective of the blade it actually looks like a the blade has tilted left.

[ecom1]

Pr To confuse matters even more, when you tilt the table down to the right side of the table to cut a bevel, from the perspective of the blade it actually looks like a the blade has tilted left.

Which would explain why treating as a left-tilt application works.

[JPG]

Actually table/blade tilt has nothing to do with proper setup. The blade tilt was used in the instructions as a more obvious indicator for 'normal' saw setups. It fails to do that with a SS.

What matters is the direction a dado blade 'grows' with increasing kerf width.

With a 'tilt left' saw, the location of the left side of the blade/kerf remains the same when the right side of the kerf increases.

So it is also with a SS.