Sheez, we be flapping about set screws and putty and ignoring what should have been obvious from the get go!
The entire quill assembly has rotated over 180° CCW from it's correct position as well as it sliding out.
That flat(with the alleged set screw mark) belongs at 6 o'clock. There is an index mark on the opposite side that belongs at 12 o'clock(aligned with the set screw).
If there is a set screw mark on the flat and the set screw is puttied, someone in Dayton screwed up!
I believe attempting to utilize the feed stop caused the quill assembly to rotate CCW to it's present position.
So rotate the quill assembly until the index mark aligns with the set screw and push the assembly in. Then tighten the set screw(assuming you needed to dig out the putty and back out the set screw to get the quill assermbly to rotate back to 'normal').
P.S. Rotate the quill assembly CLOCKWISE as that will restore the return tension rather that decrease it(if moved CCW). Yeah that makes it harder to rotate!
Drill press adjustment problem
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JPG
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Re: Drill press adjustment problem
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Herkdriver
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- Location: Central Oklahoma
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
I greatly appreciate everyone's input. Here is what I have done so far:
I removed the the entire quill lock assembly and cleaned it. I then put it back with the flat part at the bottom and the index at the top.
Since I've put it back in the correct position, it seems to work properly. However, I if I extend the quill with "a little" too much force, the assembly turns out of position to the left again. This is probably what has been happening, I just didn't notice it.
We've all been talking about the set screw and I think that it might be part of the problem. When I had the assembly removed, I took a photo looking up into the opening and the focused on the underside of the set screw. To me, it looks like the bottom of the screw has been worm down and may not be holding the assembly in place.
JPG, regarding your last comment about rotating the assembly clockwise for return tension...I think I may have not this properly when I put the assembly back in. It's a lot easier to extend now, but it also wants to extend about 1" on it's own. Is this happening because of what you mentioned?
I removed the the entire quill lock assembly and cleaned it. I then put it back with the flat part at the bottom and the index at the top.
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Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Did you know about the string trick when pulling that apart? If not were you able to catch the little "domed" washer before it fell into the motor pan?
If you did nothing then it has dropped into the recesses and will need to be found and put back in place.
Ed
If you did nothing then it has dropped into the recesses and will need to be found and put back in place.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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Herkdriver
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Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Nope. Didn't know about that one in until I heard something fall inside the casing! 
I managed to find it though! 
How do you do "the string trick"?
I managed to find it though! How do you do "the string trick"?
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Tie a string on the end of the shaft that will get pulled out. Hold on to the string and pull the shaft, the washer will be left on the string to retrieve.Herkdriver wrote:Nope. Didn't know about that one in until I heard something fall inside the casing!
How do you do "the string trick"?
Make sure the washer is back in the correct way.... or the quill will not lock.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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Herkdriver
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Re: Drill press adjustment problem
That makes sense! Thanks for the tip Ed. Good point about putting the washer on the correct way. The quill does lock now, so I guess I got it right.reible wrote:Tie a string on the end of the shaft that will get pulled out. Hold on to the string and pull the shaft, the washer will be left on the string to retrieve.Herkdriver wrote:Nope. Didn't know about that one in until I heard something fall inside the casing!
How do you do "the string trick"?
Make sure the washer is back in the correct way.... or the quill will not lock.
Ed
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Actually I think it can actually face either way and work but if you are picky about such things then it makes a difference.
For your reference this is something that Nick posted in response to a question I had and while it goes well beyond my question I saved it as a reference. It is posted here somewhere as well but rather then searching here it is:
"I talked to Sue Powell -- "Dr. Shopsmith" -- who runs Repair and Reconditioning. She showed me several older headstocks that had the quill spring housing protruding anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4". I asked her about the wide discrepancy and she said she didn't know. Our guess was that in the late 70s and early 80s, when Shopsmith, Inc was just getting on its feet, we went through a time when our suppliers were zeroing in on our specs and our Quality Control folks had more fires than they could put out. You may be looking at a quill spring housing casting that was a little long but we let it slip through for a while because (1) it did not affect the function of the machine and (2) we had bigger problems to address. That's only a guess.
Inside the headstock casting in the area of the quill, there are three protrusions. One forms the speed dial (front) side of the sleeve for the quill and the front yoke for the quill feed assembly, which includes the quill spring housing and the spherical washer to which you refer. The second protrotrusion for the back half of the quill sleeve and the back yoke. The third protrusion forms the sleeve for the quill spring housing -- we'll call it the spring housing sleeve.
The spring housing sleeve is machined to the diameter of the spring housing. Additionally, the back yoke is partially machined to this same diameter, forming what looks like a curved step on the yoke's back surface. This step is made with the same cutter as is used to machine the spring housing sleeve, so it has to be the same diameter.
When the headstock is assembled, the spring housing should nest in this step in the back yoke, the front of the housing contacting the back of the yoke. If this is not the case, then something is interfering with the housing, preventing it from being properly positioned in its sleeve. Sue suggests you check the spring itself and make sure that the "hook" (where the end of the spring fits in the housing slot) is flat against the housing. It's also possible that the housing could have been bent or distorted by someone overtightening the allen screw that locks it in the casting -- you should never tighten this screw more than 1/8 turn past snug. Both of these things will prevent the housing from seating properly in its sleeve.
The bulge on the sperical washer should face the front (speed dial) side of the casting, and it back surface should rest against the front yoke. Ed, you may already know this, but I'm going to publish the proper procedure for reinstalling the quill feed assembly in the headstock so everyone who reads this thread will have it. The numbers refer to the callouts in the Owner's Manual exploded view of the headstock.
1. Insert the quill spring (40) so the hooked end fits in the slot in the spring housing (39)
2. Slide the spring assembly onto the pinion (43) with the open side of the housing facing front (speed dial side of headstock). Spin the spring assembly on the pinion counterclockwise (looking from the front end) until you feel the "inside" end of the spring hook onto the drive screw (41).
3. Install the retaining ring (38) with snap ring pliers to keep the spring assembly in place on the pinion (43).
4. Install the flat washer (37) on the back end of the pinion (43) and slide it up against the spring housing (39).
5. Install one of the serrated washers (36) on the back end of the pinion (43) with the serrations facing back.
6. Install the feed stop (34) on the pinion (43).
7. Install the second serrated washer (36) on the pinion, this time with the serrations facing front. The serrations on the two washers should face each other.
8. Thread the feed stop handle (35) onto the back end of the pionion (43).
9. Insert the quill feed assembly into the opening in the back of headstock. Feed it in until the front end of the pinion (43) just passes the front yoke. Then put the spherical washer (53) over the front end of the pinion. The bulge in the washer should face front, with the outer ring against the yoke. Hold the spherical washer against the front yoke and continue feeding the pinion until the keyway passes through the spherical washer. Insert the woodruff key (42) in the keyway. Feed the assembly all the way into the headstock until the spring housing (39) rests against the machined surface of the back yoke.
10. Turn the pinion (43) counterclockwise (looking from the front) until the indicator mark on the housing is aligned with the set screw (45) that locks the housing in position. Tighten the set screw until snug, then give it an extra 1/8 turn but no more.
11. Insert the quill fieed sleeve (74) into the headstock from the front, aligning it so the keyway slides over the woodruff key (42).
12. Install the spring washer (75) over the front end of the pinion (43).
13. Thread the quill lock handle (76) onto the front end of the pinion (43).
14. Attach the quill feed handle assembly (134 & 135) to either the front or back end of the pinion (43).
15. Before installing the quill, turn the quill feed handle three revolutions clockwise (looking from the front) to properly tension the spring (40). To keep the tension on the spring, turn the feed stop (34) clockwise until it stops. (The indicator on the spring housing (39) should point between '0" and "4.") Then tighten the feed stop handle (35).
With all good wishes,
---
Nick Engler"
Maybe you will find it handy too.
Ed
For your reference this is something that Nick posted in response to a question I had and while it goes well beyond my question I saved it as a reference. It is posted here somewhere as well but rather then searching here it is:
"I talked to Sue Powell -- "Dr. Shopsmith" -- who runs Repair and Reconditioning. She showed me several older headstocks that had the quill spring housing protruding anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4". I asked her about the wide discrepancy and she said she didn't know. Our guess was that in the late 70s and early 80s, when Shopsmith, Inc was just getting on its feet, we went through a time when our suppliers were zeroing in on our specs and our Quality Control folks had more fires than they could put out. You may be looking at a quill spring housing casting that was a little long but we let it slip through for a while because (1) it did not affect the function of the machine and (2) we had bigger problems to address. That's only a guess.
Inside the headstock casting in the area of the quill, there are three protrusions. One forms the speed dial (front) side of the sleeve for the quill and the front yoke for the quill feed assembly, which includes the quill spring housing and the spherical washer to which you refer. The second protrotrusion for the back half of the quill sleeve and the back yoke. The third protrusion forms the sleeve for the quill spring housing -- we'll call it the spring housing sleeve.
The spring housing sleeve is machined to the diameter of the spring housing. Additionally, the back yoke is partially machined to this same diameter, forming what looks like a curved step on the yoke's back surface. This step is made with the same cutter as is used to machine the spring housing sleeve, so it has to be the same diameter.
When the headstock is assembled, the spring housing should nest in this step in the back yoke, the front of the housing contacting the back of the yoke. If this is not the case, then something is interfering with the housing, preventing it from being properly positioned in its sleeve. Sue suggests you check the spring itself and make sure that the "hook" (where the end of the spring fits in the housing slot) is flat against the housing. It's also possible that the housing could have been bent or distorted by someone overtightening the allen screw that locks it in the casting -- you should never tighten this screw more than 1/8 turn past snug. Both of these things will prevent the housing from seating properly in its sleeve.
The bulge on the sperical washer should face the front (speed dial) side of the casting, and it back surface should rest against the front yoke. Ed, you may already know this, but I'm going to publish the proper procedure for reinstalling the quill feed assembly in the headstock so everyone who reads this thread will have it. The numbers refer to the callouts in the Owner's Manual exploded view of the headstock.
1. Insert the quill spring (40) so the hooked end fits in the slot in the spring housing (39)
2. Slide the spring assembly onto the pinion (43) with the open side of the housing facing front (speed dial side of headstock). Spin the spring assembly on the pinion counterclockwise (looking from the front end) until you feel the "inside" end of the spring hook onto the drive screw (41).
3. Install the retaining ring (38) with snap ring pliers to keep the spring assembly in place on the pinion (43).
4. Install the flat washer (37) on the back end of the pinion (43) and slide it up against the spring housing (39).
5. Install one of the serrated washers (36) on the back end of the pinion (43) with the serrations facing back.
6. Install the feed stop (34) on the pinion (43).
7. Install the second serrated washer (36) on the pinion, this time with the serrations facing front. The serrations on the two washers should face each other.
8. Thread the feed stop handle (35) onto the back end of the pionion (43).
9. Insert the quill feed assembly into the opening in the back of headstock. Feed it in until the front end of the pinion (43) just passes the front yoke. Then put the spherical washer (53) over the front end of the pinion. The bulge in the washer should face front, with the outer ring against the yoke. Hold the spherical washer against the front yoke and continue feeding the pinion until the keyway passes through the spherical washer. Insert the woodruff key (42) in the keyway. Feed the assembly all the way into the headstock until the spring housing (39) rests against the machined surface of the back yoke.
10. Turn the pinion (43) counterclockwise (looking from the front) until the indicator mark on the housing is aligned with the set screw (45) that locks the housing in position. Tighten the set screw until snug, then give it an extra 1/8 turn but no more.
11. Insert the quill fieed sleeve (74) into the headstock from the front, aligning it so the keyway slides over the woodruff key (42).
12. Install the spring washer (75) over the front end of the pinion (43).
13. Thread the quill lock handle (76) onto the front end of the pinion (43).
14. Attach the quill feed handle assembly (134 & 135) to either the front or back end of the pinion (43).
15. Before installing the quill, turn the quill feed handle three revolutions clockwise (looking from the front) to properly tension the spring (40). To keep the tension on the spring, turn the feed stop (34) clockwise until it stops. (The indicator on the spring housing (39) should point between '0" and "4.") Then tighten the feed stop handle (35).
With all good wishes,
---
Nick Engler"
Maybe you will find it handy too.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Hope this helps!
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... #post40993
There are two more that deal with quill reassembly.
The set screw is not 'worn', but needs to be tightened(putty removal necessary).
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... #post40993
There are two more that deal with quill reassembly.
The set screw is not 'worn', but needs to be tightened(putty removal necessary).
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
-
Herkdriver
- Gold Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:09 pm
- Location: Central Oklahoma
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Ed and JPG,
That was excellent information! Using the manual's diagram along with written instructions, combined with the photos was exactly what I needed.
I checked and I had the spherical washer the facing the correct way, but I did have to fix the serrated washers. I reassembled everything, removed the putty and tightened the set screw, and then adjusted the spring tension per the instructions.
I think I'm good to go!
That was excellent information! Using the manual's diagram along with written instructions, combined with the photos was exactly what I needed.
I checked and I had the spherical washer the facing the correct way, but I did have to fix the serrated washers. I reassembled everything, removed the putty and tightened the set screw, and then adjusted the spring tension per the instructions.
I think I'm good to go!
-
Herkdriver
- Gold Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:09 pm
- Location: Central Oklahoma
Re: Drill press adjustment problem
Dusty, Ed, JPG and jsburger,
I know I've already said it, but thanks again for your time and advice. I've learned a lot today. This is one of the reasons I wanted a Shopsmith....all the support you get from this group!
It's 10:30 at night and I'm in my garage listening to music, messing with my Shopsmith and talking with you guys. That's a great way to spend the evening!
Lance
I know I've already said it, but thanks again for your time and advice. I've learned a lot today. This is one of the reasons I wanted a Shopsmith....all the support you get from this group!
It's 10:30 at night and I'm in my garage listening to music, messing with my Shopsmith and talking with you guys. That's a great way to spend the evening!
Lance