Dado Blade

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

BillF6531 wrote:What are the Model 510 part numbers for the 5/8" arbour, and can I use the dado arbor for a saw blade too?

Best regards,

Bill in Canada
Like Dusty showed you the 5/8" arbor for the 510 is part number 555608.

Can you use the dado arbor for a saw blade? The answer is: NO!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

BillF6531 wrote:What are the Model 510 part numbers for the 5/8" arbour, and can I use the dado arbor for a saw blade too?

Best regards,

Bill in Canada
Hi Bill,
You already have your answer, but I wanted to give you a big Image to the forum. Please do use this forum as a source of information, and please do contribute your experiences and projects!
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
psargeant
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Post by psargeant »

I will take exception to charlese and say that for many years the only 5/8" arbor I could afford was the dado arbor and I used it for both dadoing and sawing. That being said, it was used on a Mark V and I had to make special adjustments when sawing to align the blade with the insert slot.
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

Great topic!
Thanks for all the information.
I recently bought a Freud Stacked Dado set (unused)from a neighbor and I'm looking forward to making some stopped dados soon but I also had questions about the arbors. (520 in my case.)
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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perryobear
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Post by perryobear »

Hi everyone,

I think we have had more lively (and friendly) discussion on the forum about 5/8" arbors than any other single iterm that attaches to the end of the quill!

Here is my "take" on the situation:

It is physically possible to mount a saw blade on a Molder Dado arbor, HOWEVER, because the dado arbor shaft is only threaded part way down, you will need to use the thick spacer plus a thin spacer, then the blade, followed by the second thin spacer, tounge washer, and finally the nut.

This arrangement results in the blade being located considerably farther out from the end of the quill when the arbor is mounted on the machine.

This increased distance can be compensated for by moving the table as needed to center the blade in the table insert. This may have been good enough in the days of the Model 500. My old greenie arrived with a 5/8" blade with an adapter, mounted on a 1/2" universal arbor very similar to the present day 5/8" dado arbor. This had apparently worked for the previous owner for many years (but he didn't own any saw guards).:o

On the Model 505/510/520 you can adjust the table position as needed to center the blade in the insert, but you can not adjust the riving knife location to match the offset blade position since the riving knife/upper & lower saw guard assembly is mounted to the quill itself.

So, when you use the Molder Dado arbor on a 505/510/520, you cannot use the upper saw guard, not a problem with a molder head or a dado blade, but a definite concern when using a standard saw blade.

This is one reason why there are two different arbors and why you should have the right arbor for the application.:)

Regards to all,

Dennis
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

perryobear wrote:Hi everyone,

I think we have had more lively (and friendly) discussion on the forum about 5/8" arbors than any other single iterm that attaches to the end of the quill!

Here is my "take" on the situation:

It is physically possible to mount a saw blade on a Molder Dado arbor, HOWEVER, because the dado arbor shaft is only threaded part way down, you will need to use the thick spacer plus a thin spacer, then the blade, followed by the second thin spacer, tounge washer, and finally the nut.

This arrangement results in the blade being located considerably farther out from the end of the quill when the arbor is mounted on the machine.
Dennis
Dennis et al,

You can use the dado arbor with a regular saw blade, you just need to change the order of the spacers a little from what Dennis suggested. You mount one thin washer, the saw blade, thick washer, keyed washer and then the nut (you can also put the other thin washer on the nut side of the blade if you like). This lines up exactly the same as the 510/520 5/8" saw arbor and should line up with the upper saw guard.

Hope this helps.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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perryobear
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Post by perryobear »

Hi Rob,

You are indeed correct that changing the spacer order from the wide spacer first to the narrow spacer first on the dado arbor does fix the blade location problem with respect to the upper saw guard.

But wait!:(

If you try that spacer arrangement, the end of the dado arbor shaft will hit the tie bar guard on the table when you try to center the blade in the table insert (possibly resulting in damage to both parts).

This is why the Shopsmith dado arbor instructions indicate (in addition to not using the dado arbor to mount saw blades :o ) that if the accessory is thin (such as a narrow dado set up) you need to mount the wide spacer on the arbor first. This spacer arrangement provides the needed table clearance from the end of the arbor by placing the "accessory" closer to the end of the arbor.

So either way you have a problem that you won't have if you use the correct arbor for the application. :)

Regards to all,

Dennis
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

perryobear wrote:Hi Rob,

You are indeed correct that changing the spacer order from the wide spacer first to the narrow spacer first on the dado arbor does fix the blade location problem with respect to the upper saw guard.

But wait!:(

If you try that spacer arrangement, the end of the dado arbor shaft will hit the tie bar guard on the table when you try to center the blade in the table insert (possibly resulting in damage to both parts).
Why would the arbor hit the tiebar guard? Dennis I must be dense, but the end of the arbor should not hit the tiebar guard unless you extend the quill. And you should not have to extend the quill if you configure the arbor the way I described. Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand. Take care.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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RobertTaylor
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Post by RobertTaylor »

rob, the arbor is about a 1/2" too long and will indeed hit the tie bar on a 500. i have one that i bought on the baythat was ground down until about 1/2 the nut was left. i thought to myself why would someone do that. then after reading this thread i checked it out and indeed found itto be too long and it would hit the tie bar had it not been shortened whether the quill is extended or not the saw blade must fit in the slot. i hope this helps. if you look at shopsmith 5/8" blade arbor (the recomended one) you will see the nut is round with two flats for a wrench but only about 3/8" thick and the threaded shaft does not extend past that nut.
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

bettyt44720 wrote:rob, the arbor is about a 1/2" too long and will indeed hit the tie bar on a 500. i have one that i bought on the baythat was ground down until about 1/2 the nut was left. i thought to myself why would someone do that. then after reading this thread i checked it out and indeed found itto be too long and it would hit the tie bar had it not been shortened whether the quill is extended or not the saw blade must fit in the slot. i hope this helps. if you look at shopsmith 5/8" blade arbor (the recomended one) you will see the nut is round with two flats for a wrench but only about 3/8" thick and the threaded shaft does not extend past that nut.
Thanks bettyt44720, it has been a while since I had a machine in the 500 configuration. My machines are 520's and I thought the question posed by Bill in Canada was about whether the dado arbor could be used with a regular saw blade on a 510/520 (not a 500). It does make a difference which style Mark V you are working with.

On many of the 500's the upper saw guard is independent of the lower guard. So on a 500, I would put the thicker washer inside (toward quill) of the saw blade. Then you would move your table out to line the blade up with the insert. But, I don't have a 500 to try it on to test the premise. Would that work on a 500 with independent guards?

In the earlier days, Shopsmith sold the 5/8" universal arbor which is about 3/8" shorter than the current dado arbor. I know I could run those on my 500 with a regular blade mounted.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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