Wooden Toy Car, Hot Rod Freak Ford, 32 Deuce Coupe, Orange

[BuckeyeDennis]

BuckeyeDennis,

I try to make toys where I don't have a radius smaller than 1/2 inch. It make sanding much easier. In unfortunately the design of some toys just will not work with 1/2 inch radius. Sometimes a different shape will work. I'd just need to try it.

Would it be possible to cut part way through with a pin router turn it over and cut from the other side. I would need some way to index it so it would line up. I'm

It just occurred to me that if I cut it from 3/4 inch stock with the pin router then glue the half's together I could use a flush cutting bit to make them match. Might work. I know I can get 2 inch flush cutting bits.

I'm thinking I should use spiral up/down cut bits for the pin router. Am I wrong?

Well, a 1/2" diameter straight bit only has a 1/4" radius, so you might be OK with those. If not, and you need to use a 1/4" (or somewhere in between) diameter, I still wouldn't flip the part over. I'd use a long bit with a 1" cutting length, leave myself an extra 1/2" of shank, and just drop the router down to make the second (full-depth) pass. So you might want a 5/16" or 3/8" diameter cutter with a 1/4" shank, so that the shank doesn't burn the workpiece on the full-depth pass.

As for using spiral bits, they may be necessary if you're going to plunge-cut from a solid blank. If you rough it out on a bandsaw and just use the OPR for a finish pass, a straight bit is probably fine, but a spiral bit might give a better finish (or avoid chatter). I'd experiment with bits and material to see what works best.

[rlkeeney]

I'm not ready to set up the the pin router just yet. As you can see in the back ground of my photo I've got a lot of toys on by bench waing to be finished and I have to get the new band saw set up with the Carter guides and learn to use it. By then I'll be deep into building for Christmas. I need a pile of stuff built and in my shop well before then. It might be next January before I get to it.

[swampgator]

On the productive painting, if you have a rod of some sort, you can purchase the toggle bolts to insert into the window cut out. As you expand the wings of the toggle bolt, it will hold the car sufficiently to hang the car and bolt onto the rod or screw it into a piece of PVC. Then you can spray several at one time, if you use the same color. Yes, the paint will build up on the screws and other equipment. I learned this trick when I worked for a few years in a paint shop.

It is also possible to run a long screw into an axle hole, then bend the screw or use a spring clamp to hold it to the rod/pipe. Anyway, you get the idea. You can also paint one side at a time. Anyway, that's how we painted aircraft parts and electronics back in the 1970's.

[rlkeeney]

This is what I currently use to hold small parts with wet paint. Whwn actually painting I either hold them by the dowel with my hand. Lately I've been holding the heavy cars with long nose locking pliers because griping the dowel that hard makes my hand cramp. This method allows me hold the body in any position I want amd keep the airbrush level. It works well for brush painting too.

20170305_201114 Paint Stand For Wooden Toy Cars.resized.jpg (311.63 KiB) Viewed 6029 times

It also works good for smaller parts. Like these axle pegs. O hold these with hemostats while painting.

20170419_213515 - Paint Drying Stand For Wooden Toy Car Axel Pegs.resized.jpg (448.7 KiB) Viewed 6029 times

And wheels which is what I originally used it for.

20151217_164419 Painting Wheels For Wooden Toy Cars.resized.jpg (263.47 KiB) Viewed 6029 times

I also made this rotating paint stand that I have never used for that purpose because I soon discovered that I could not paint the entire body at the same time.

http://youtu.be/ZzjBAhnMtfM