Electrical Advice

[db5]

I purchased a retractable cord reel at a garage sale. It was rated at 10 amps. and after some use it is not sufficient. I replaced the power cord on my 510 with one that came from a Mk. VII (either 12/3 or 10/3)and now I will replace the cords for the reel with 12/3 and keep the run much shorter. I have three questions:

1) Do I use dielectric or silicone grease on the rubber rings? Pics 1 &2.
2) I installed a 3 outlet connection (unknown gauge). Pic 3. Can I replace the single outlet on the 12/3 with this?
3) I have a small 8 amp remote switch that will just plug in to one of these connections and a much larger 15 amp. Can I use the 8 amp?

[Gene Howe]

I'm no electrician. But, I maintain the same amps throughout. The same as the breaker. Not a problem for me. All the breakers in the distribution box are 20 amp.

[Hobbyman2]

2) I installed a 3 outlet connection (unknown gauge). Pic 3. Can I replace the single outlet on the 12/3 with this?

--------


?

The insulation around the electrical wire offers little help to you. The colors are used to identify the polarity of the wire, the most common being red, black, and yellow. However, wire strippers have multiple holes labeled with dimensions where you can insert the wires. You not only can strip wires of a specific size but can also determine the circumference of the wire.


http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to ... wire-gauge


not sure how much load you are planing on using the 3 plug cord for but if it gets hot stop.


I had one I tried using a flood light and a power saw ,,it kicked the breaker.

[john_001]

I'm not an electrician, but I always assume the safe capacity of any wiring is the capacity of the weakest link. If the reel was made for 10 amps and you're still using the stock wiper contacts, I wouldn't assume you're good for 20 amps if you're just replacing the cord itself with 12/3. Same with the three-way. If you're splicing onto the old wires leading into the plug, you only have a 12/3 system if you're 12 gauge all the way to the internal sockets.

[db5]

Good input. That takes care of the 3-way. That is out.

[JPG]

I would not do what you 'proposed'.

Weakest link indeed! That be the thing you want to grease. Most likely that is where the 10A rating came from.

I am guessing the original wire was #18. Surely no larger than #16.

Have you tried to coil/uncoil the #12? I be skeptical it will work 'well'. I would expect the recoil spring to be 'weak'.

I do not think the grease matters(as long as it is non-conductive), but I would apply sparingly.

If you want 20A capacity, get one rated so.

I consider what you have to be useful for a service light.

P.S. I doubt the Mark VII cord was larger than #16.

[dusty]

Most of what I think/feel about this has already been said (one way or another). However, I would reiterate - nothing in the system rated at less than 15amp or 14ga. Also, if going to a 20amp breaker, use 12gauge wire (nothing less). Using 10gauge wire is nothing less than over kill.

For what it might be worth: I have 15amp breakers for the shop and the cord on the Mark V has been extended to 20' using 14/3. I try not to plug the Mark V into any circuit that might be shared with another piece of operating equipment.

I believe that if I needed 20amp service I would have long ago learned that by experiencing an occasional circuit overload (tripped breaker). I do not believe that beefing up the circuit (ie, using heavier gauge wire and/or larger breakers) will provide anymore power or efficiency to the system than I already have.

Word of caution: Installing 20amp breakers where the wiring is 14ga or less is both a code violation in most areas and is hazardous. Ask any professional electrician or fire fighter.

[reible]

Wire is rated to carry current when it is sitting in open air at some ambient temperature. If it is in a coiled or if it is in a raceway with other cables it is derated as well for temperatures above a certain level. I have books but can't access them right now that give those numbers.

It is also true that the weak link is likely the spring contacts. So either replace with the same wire or just trash it and get a new one.

I use one of these cords in my shop. It is rated at 10A but you also have to have all the cord pulled out at the time. I use it only for things like my soldering station or dremel tool.

Here are a couple of picture of it for reference:

20170723_165219_resized.jpg (397.36 KiB) Viewed 6622 times

20170723_165144_resized.jpg (408.5 KiB) Viewed 6622 times

Ed

[everettdavis]

My advice is to use 12/3 wire (which you can buy by the foot), installing your own 15A Heavy duty plug such as a Hubbell 15 Amp U-Ground Angle Plug, no longer than 10 ft. then strip supply lines back from that length, using a properly sized strain relief as others have stated on the motor pan.

Use new push on insulated terminals, crimped with a good crimping tool.

Examine the wires to the motor itself and consider your options if they are in poor condition. Some are more readily serviceable than others based on which motor you have.

Ensure the receptacle itself is in good mechanical shape, not worn out from years of use, fed ideally from a dedicated isolated circuit, with a ground fault interrupter circuit breaker.

You will not have problems. Period.

Everett

15 Amp Grounded Angle Plug.png (85.97 KiB) Viewed 6571 times

12-3 Spool.png (79.99 KiB) Viewed 6571 times

ratcheting crimping tool.png (53.95 KiB) Viewed 6571 times

UPDATE: I should have mentioned that one needs to select the proper size crimp terminal connectors. Colors designate the AWG Gauge of Wire the connector is compatible with. 12/3 will require the Terminals that are insulated with Yellow. See Below:

Wire Colors - AWG Range.jpg (29.8 KiB) Viewed 6497 times

Scotchlok Female Disconnect 12-10 AWG Fully Nylon Insulated.png (36.15 KiB) Viewed 6497 times

Scotchlok Male Disconnect 12-10 AWG Fully Nylon Insulated.png (34.87 KiB) Viewed 6497 times

[Hobbyman2]

Great advise Everett and well presented.

I would add to the debate on soldering ends on stranded wire v/s crimping.

reason being is electric current travels along the out side of a wire , a antenna ,,wire terminal ,,,,or metal object , by soldering the ends you bring all these lose ends back into one .

Brade'd wire makes it easy to roll and bend ,if you solder the ends the center strands should not separate or work lose in the connector .


JMO