Somewhere in the documentation Shopsmith sends with the Jointer is a very simple way to set the blades using a simple block of wood. Nothing more than that is needed to get it right.
garys wrote:Somewhere in the documentation Shopsmith sends with the Jointer is a very simple way to set the blades using a simple block of wood. Nothing more than that is needed to get it right.
Actually SS says to use a steel straightedge but you are correct, that is all that is needed. That is all I have ever used. The same with the planer. The knife setting gauge that comes with the planer works perfectly. If you don't have one they are $8 from SS.
The picture shows the figure from the SS jointer manual that shows how to do the check.
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John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
The video and the magnetic holders work with jointer heads that have the knives floating and are clamped when the blades are 'held' by the jig.
The SS jointer blades do not float, but are adjusted with the height adjusting screws.
The 'gauge' made in the video could be useful as a checking gauge(similar in use as the planer gauge).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:The video and the magnetic holders work with jointer heads that have the knives floating and are clamped when the blades are 'held' by the jig.
The SS jointer blades do not float, but are adjusted with the height adjusting screws.
The 'gauge' made in the video could be useful as a checking gauge(similar in use as the planer gauge).
Which is why there is no need for fancy magnetic gauges and other stuff. The published SS method has worked fine for 60+ years.
Do you know of any other jointer (or planer) that has height screws like the SS. It seems to me it is a better method.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
And the blades are not subject to 'slipping down'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
wa2crk wrote:JPG
What happened to the "hat"?
With the block of wood method the blade only touches wood at the TDC of the rotation regardless of the width of the blade due to sharpening. All blades will be in the same reference to the tables even if the blades are not the same width. (due to sharpening) I have used the magnetic holders and have not been happy. I get very consistent results with the owner's manual method.
Bill V
It dry rotted!
As the blade narrows due to repeated sharpening. TDC will change relative to the angular position of the cutter head. Yes it will remain directly above the axis, but the head will be rotated differently.
I am not satisfied with the SS M VII logo, but it will have to do for the time being. It is a scaled down version of -
mark vii logo 2 reduced.jpg
Will this be of any assistance?
mark vii logo 2 reduced.jpg (523.72 KiB) Viewed 6554 times
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
