10ER #2

[Dansmith]

These 10ER's are addicting. I posted a thread last week with questions about one I purchased a week ago Friday. Liked it so much that I found another deal for one with a speed reducer as well. Didn't have as many questions about this one since I had one with which to compare. This is my second 10ER
A Mark V (500) is the first one I purchased new in 1993 (still have it).

As some of you will recall, my first 10ER had a crack on the spindle pulley and a weld on the speed changer. Still works fine. The one I just purchased has no crack and may have a weld that has been ground on on of the upper arms of the speed changer.

Spent a little time adjusting the pulleys and tightening stuff down and cleaned it up a little yesterday (still needs cleaning up). Today, I turned about a bowl that started out as around 9.5" by about 5" depth out-of-round blank of maple that was still a little wet. Turned at lowest speed to start, and I was impressed with the lathe capabilites with the speed changer.

It has a 3/4 HP Power-Kraft motor that appears to be one that did not come with the original 10ER.The reason I say that is the manner in which it is mounted, unlike my other 10ER. Runs great.

By the way, I paid $100.00 for it.

Here are some photos:

[rpd]

These 10ER's are addicting. I posted a thread last week with questions about one I purchased a week ago Friday. Liked it so much that I found another deal for one with a speed reducer as well. Didn't have as many questions about this one since I had one with which to compare. This is my second 10ER
A Mark V (500) is the first one I purchased new in 1993 (still have it).

As some of you will recall, my first 10ER had a crack on the spindle pulley and a weld on the speed changer. Still works fine. The one I just purchased has no crack and may have a weld that has been ground on on of the upper arms of the speed changer.

Spent a little time adjusting the pulleys and tightening stuff down and cleaned it up a little yesterday (still needs cleaning up). Today, I turned about a bowl that started out as around 9.5" by about 5" depth out-of-round blank of maple that was still a little wet. Turned at lowest speed to start, and I was impressed with the lathe capabilities with the speed changer.

It has a 3/4 HP Power-Kraft motor that appears to be one that did not come with the original 10ER.The reason I say that is the manner in which it is mounted, unlike my other 10ER. Runs great.

By the way, I paid $100.00 for it.

Addicting, indeed they are.

Look nice and clean, you got a good price on it.

When doing lathe work I take the height adjustment crank out of the carriage so it doesn't get in the way, or poke me when I am not looking.

Re the speed changer, you can mount the adjustment crank assembly on the left side of the ears instead of on the right, that way it doesn't interfere with the headstock lock handle.

Nice to have a 3/4 hp motor. I like the box they made to keep sawdust out of the motor.

10ER's did not come with a motor. There were motors sold separately that were configured for the 10ER, (capacitor on the side), but the mount was made so the owner could adapt pretty much any motor they had on hand.

If you rebuild the bench, for lathe work it is best to have the spindle at elbow height, so adjust the length of the legs appropriately for your dimensions. I think this is an advantage over the metal legs

[Dansmith]

Thanks, Ron.

The current height is perfect for me (to my elbow). The ER i got last week was way too low. I now have it set up as a drill press.

The handle of the speed changer does not interfere with the headstock lock, so I'm good there.

I did forget to mention that it did come with the table, aux table (this one is aluminum as opposed to the cast iron of the previous one). Also came with a speed changer wheel chart, drill chuck dead center and spur center and a few other things.

Not sure yet which one is going to be the dedicated lathe and which is going to be the dedicated drill press. I plan to make a shorty stand for the drill press out of the first one. Hard to say at this point.

Both run well. The spindle runout on the first one is close to .0015" and on the second one, close to .001. The second one needs to have the spindle collar tightened because there is some in and out (fore and aft) play. I think (not sure yet) to fix that, it is the same as on the Mark V; except that you have to remove another collar to get to it.

[cham-ed]

[quote="Dansmith"]Thanks, Ron.

Not sure yet which one is going to be the dedicated lathe and which is going to be the dedicated drill press. I plan to make a shorty stand for the drill press out of the first one. Hard to say at this point.

I don't think that you are saying this BUT I do want to be sure to warn you in case I miss interpreted. You never want to shorten 10ER tubes. They are thicker than later models and are much sought after. If you want to shorten tubes get Mark V tubes.

[Dansmith]

Cham-ed, you did interpret correctly that I only intend to shorten the stand and not the tubes. Excellent point, however.

[rpd]

Thanks, Ron.

The current height is perfect for me (to my elbow). The ER i got last week was way too low. I now have it set up as a drill press.

The handle of the speed changer does not interfere with the headstock lock, so I'm good there.

I did forget to mention that it did come with the table, aux table (this one is aluminum as opposed to the cast iron of the previous one). Also came with a speed changer wheel chart, drill chuck dead center and spur center and a few other things.

Not sure yet which one is going to be the dedicated lathe and which is going to be the dedicated drill press. I plan to make a shorty stand for the drill press out of the first one. Hard to say at this point.

Both run well. The spindle run-out on the first one is close to .0015" and on the second one, close to .001. The second one needs to have the spindle collar tightened because there is some in and out (fore and aft) play. I think (not sure yet) to fix that, it is the same as on the Mark V; except that you have to remove another collar to get to it.

Good that the spindle is the right height. Some times you win.

I had that end play happen to me once too... took a while to figure it out. Here is a link to a thread that covers it.
http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... 83#p190183

For my dedicated drill press I added a gas strut to make adjusting the table up and down easier.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 23#p184523

[Dansmith]

Thanks for the links, Ron. They will be helpful.

By the way, on my measurements of the runout, not so sure as to the accuracy due to the flat spot on the spindle.I re-measured last night and only got about .00075 runout on my newest one. Haven't remeasured the other one yet.

I'm thinking, and please let me know if you think otherwise, that I should use the one with the least runout as the dedicated drill press and the other as the lathe. Or, due to the negligible difference, does it even really matter?

[rpd]

Thanks for the links, Ron. They will be helpful.

By the way, on my measurements of the runout, not so sure as to the accuracy due to the flat spot on the spindle.I re-measured last night and only got about .00075 runout on my newest one. Haven't remeasured the other one yet.

I'm thinking, and please let me know if you think otherwise, that I should use the one with the least runout as the dedicated drill press and the other as the lathe. Or, due to the negligible difference, does it even really matter?

I haven't measured runout on any of mine. They both sound good so I doubt that it matters. I would be more inclined to use the better one for lathe work, but I could be wrong.

This video shows Skip Campbell (MKCtools) measuring what he calls runout (deflection) before and after on a Mark V single bearing quill that he upgrades to double bearing.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S7ICFrSttA[/youtube]

[Dansmith]

Thanks again, Ron. Excellent video.

[reible]

Thanks for the links, Ron. They will be helpful.

By the way, on my measurements of the runout, not so sure as to the accuracy due to the flat spot on the spindle.I re-measured last night and only got about .00075 runout on my newest one. Haven't remeasured the other one yet.

I'm thinking, and please let me know if you think otherwise, that I should use the one with the least runout as the dedicated drill press and the other as the lathe. Or, due to the negligible difference, does it even really matter?

When I see all those zeros and decimal places I have to wonder what you are using to do the measurements? I'd like to see pictures of your setup. Are you a machinist by chance?

Ed