Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Moderator: admin
- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2163
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
I just posted "Jointer Illustrated Exploded Parts Drawing 8 Oct 2017 extensively reworked by Everett L. Davis.PDF" on the main page of Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More - http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690
The drawing has different perspective to better help view how it is assembled, has been extensively reworked, with some new artwork altogether.
A copy is also in My Google Drive
Everett
The drawing has different perspective to better help view how it is assembled, has been extensively reworked, with some new artwork altogether.
A copy is also in My Google Drive
Everett
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Great work, as usual, on the drawings but there remains the need to determine which OEM bearings are utilized.
The bearings for the jointer are 12.7mm x 28.575mm x 7.938 mm. SS Part Number 502898 = R8-2Z.
http://www.vxb.com/R8-2Z-Dia-12-7mm-OD- ... VsQAvD_BwE
The bearings for the jointer are 12.7mm x 28.575mm x 7.938 mm. SS Part Number 502898 = R8-2Z.
http://www.vxb.com/R8-2Z-Dia-12-7mm-OD- ... VsQAvD_BwE
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2163
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
There are two schools of thought and different production eras since Magna introduced the 4E Jointer in the early 1950's. Early ones were sealed, then some were shielded. I think they went back to sealed again afterward.
The first 4E I had came from a friend of my uncle who bought it new. It had sealed bearings 2RS opposed to the shielded bearings ZZ. It had never been repaired when we took off the bearings.
I watched my uncle take a small flat jeweler's screwdriver and gently remove the rubber seals. The grease inside looked consistent and had not been contaminated with sawdust intrusion.
He washed them out in naphtha, blew them out with compressed air, re-greased (not packed) them with furnace grease, wiped the seals off with alcohol and reinstalled them.
The illustrated parts list I redid, I used sealed bearings to illustrate them.
I don't know the OEM back in the day but I suspect like the 10ER, they were Fafnir bearings.
Thanks for the measurements and bearing numbers you provided. To my knowledge, which is not complete by any means on the Jointers, the shaft diameter never changed size or the bearing retainers. Through the years I am confident the bearing brands changed through the years based on what was available.
I am working to flesh out the Jointer in the bearings document, and I will include what you have provided for a starting point.
James or John both of whom have written about them likely have some things to add.
Everyone is free to share their knowledge and experiences on them.
Thanks for the information.
The one you specified is double shielded R8-2Z Radial Ball Bearing Double Shielded Bore Dia. 12.7mm OD 28.575mm Width 7.938mm which I believe has inner rubber seals covered by metal shields if I recall that correctly.
Alternate measurement in inches
Inner : .5 Inch 1/2"
Outer : 1.125 Inch 1 1/8"
Width : .313 Inch 5/16 (actual .3125 rounded up to .313)
Everett
The first 4E I had came from a friend of my uncle who bought it new. It had sealed bearings 2RS opposed to the shielded bearings ZZ. It had never been repaired when we took off the bearings.
I watched my uncle take a small flat jeweler's screwdriver and gently remove the rubber seals. The grease inside looked consistent and had not been contaminated with sawdust intrusion.
He washed them out in naphtha, blew them out with compressed air, re-greased (not packed) them with furnace grease, wiped the seals off with alcohol and reinstalled them.
The illustrated parts list I redid, I used sealed bearings to illustrate them.
I don't know the OEM back in the day but I suspect like the 10ER, they were Fafnir bearings.
Thanks for the measurements and bearing numbers you provided. To my knowledge, which is not complete by any means on the Jointers, the shaft diameter never changed size or the bearing retainers. Through the years I am confident the bearing brands changed through the years based on what was available.
I am working to flesh out the Jointer in the bearings document, and I will include what you have provided for a starting point.
James or John both of whom have written about them likely have some things to add.
Everyone is free to share their knowledge and experiences on them.
Thanks for the information.
The one you specified is double shielded R8-2Z Radial Ball Bearing Double Shielded Bore Dia. 12.7mm OD 28.575mm Width 7.938mm which I believe has inner rubber seals covered by metal shields if I recall that correctly.
Alternate measurement in inches
Inner : .5 Inch 1/2"
Outer : 1.125 Inch 1 1/8"
Width : .313 Inch 5/16 (actual .3125 rounded up to .313)
Everett
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Rounding will be a gotcha very often.
5/16 = 0.3125 = 7.9375mm
7.938 / 25.4 = 0.3125 rounds to 0.313
0.3125 x 25.4 = 7.9375 rounds to 7.938
Specifying inch designed bearings as metric is a slippery slope and redundant IMO.
We are fortunate that conversion is absolute with only single fractional unit to the tenths.(25.4 mm exactly = 1 inch)
A 0.313 od bearing will NOT fit into a 0.3125 bore.
One could say that at that scale why does it matter? It matters - bearings often are slightly undersized for that reason(slip fit). But they are all referred to as the 'nominal' size.
Stepping down off the soap box.
5/16 = 0.3125 = 7.9375mm
7.938 / 25.4 = 0.3125 rounds to 0.313
0.3125 x 25.4 = 7.9375 rounds to 7.938
Specifying inch designed bearings as metric is a slippery slope and redundant IMO.
We are fortunate that conversion is absolute with only single fractional unit to the tenths.(25.4 mm exactly = 1 inch)
A 0.313 od bearing will NOT fit into a 0.3125 bore.
One could say that at that scale why does it matter? It matters - bearings often are slightly undersized for that reason(slip fit). But they are all referred to as the 'nominal' size.
Stepping down off the soap box.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2163
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Sage advice my friend.
99R8 is the Radial/Deep Groove Ball Bearing - .5000 in ID, 1.1250 in OD, .3125 in Width, Double Seal version
Sealed bearings are what I prefer next to high dust production exposure so that's what I will use. Never made sense to me that Shopsmith put 2RS on the Quill side, and ZZ on the Drive Sleeve Assembly on the opposite end of the spindle, since one can use a Sanding Disk on either end, but I digress
Everett
99R8 is the Radial/Deep Groove Ball Bearing - .5000 in ID, 1.1250 in OD, .3125 in Width, Double Seal version
Sealed bearings are what I prefer next to high dust production exposure so that's what I will use. Never made sense to me that Shopsmith put 2RS on the Quill side, and ZZ on the Drive Sleeve Assembly on the opposite end of the spindle, since one can use a Sanding Disk on either end, but I digress
Everett
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
The R8-2Z is the number taken right off the bearings that were installed on the cutter head when I bought it from Shopsmith. I had a cutter head with a bent shaft. Don't know how it happened but it was visibly bent.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
One thing that we all have to remember is that there is no industry/universal standard for bearing numbers and what they mean. You have to know the bearing manufacturer and use their numbering system to determine what you have and what is a suitable sub. This is particularly true after you get past the first 4 or 5 numbers in the bearing number.
For example. Everett posted a few posts back...
"The first 4E I had came from a friend of my uncle who bought it new. It had sealed bearings 2RS opposed to the shielded bearings ZZ. It had never been repaired when we took off the bearings."
I have absolutely no doubt that is true, however...
The bearings in the 10ER head stock are 202KLL3 and 205KLL2. These are original Fafnir numbers and the LL (not ZZ) in the number means metal shields.
All I am saying is if you have a bearing from an unknown manufacture the number may not be a suitable sub. There is a lot more to all this than just an R8-ZZ number.
For example. Everett posted a few posts back...
"The first 4E I had came from a friend of my uncle who bought it new. It had sealed bearings 2RS opposed to the shielded bearings ZZ. It had never been repaired when we took off the bearings."
I have absolutely no doubt that is true, however...
The bearings in the 10ER head stock are 202KLL3 and 205KLL2. These are original Fafnir numbers and the LL (not ZZ) in the number means metal shields.
All I am saying is if you have a bearing from an unknown manufacture the number may not be a suitable sub. There is a lot more to all this than just an R8-ZZ number.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2163
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Absolutely!!!
I have elaborated a good bit on this subject in the bearing document I am working on. There are standards of sorts, and standard deviations, no pun intended.
If in wood working you measure twice and cut once, in ordering bearings you measure three (3) times and order once, if you are lucky. The myriad of sellers out there often don't know the difference in what you think you are ordering, and what they intend to sell you when you order it.
The three measurements:
1) Bore
2) Diameter
3) Width
Then comes the specifications and not all use the same designations for the same things: Shielded vs Sealed
John is absolutely right. For a final confirmation if you live in a larger community, a commercial local bearing supplier can be your best friend. Let them measure the bearing, and the shaft it goes on as well, and then decide what to order if you can't order from Shopsmith.
From everything I can tell, these are the 1950's bearings for the 4E Jointer. They were sealed, not shielded. It did change back and forth apparently through the years. If you read the Bearing Document as it exists even in the draft form, this topic is covered already.
If you have ever worked in manufacturing, you already realize that a professional cost control analyst (bean counter for parts acquisitions) will find cheaper parts, even foreign sources for parts, if they think they can save a buck. Shopsmith was never that way. Quality was always
front and center, and it is today. A bearing today doesn't have to last 60 years. 20 is usually fine.
I am working on the Planer and that will be the last in the structure of the document, but by no means is the document finished at that point. If it were a house under construction, it's not even 'dried-in' yet.
Everett
I have elaborated a good bit on this subject in the bearing document I am working on. There are standards of sorts, and standard deviations, no pun intended.
If in wood working you measure twice and cut once, in ordering bearings you measure three (3) times and order once, if you are lucky. The myriad of sellers out there often don't know the difference in what you think you are ordering, and what they intend to sell you when you order it.
The three measurements:
1) Bore
2) Diameter
3) Width
Then comes the specifications and not all use the same designations for the same things: Shielded vs Sealed
John is absolutely right. For a final confirmation if you live in a larger community, a commercial local bearing supplier can be your best friend. Let them measure the bearing, and the shaft it goes on as well, and then decide what to order if you can't order from Shopsmith.
From everything I can tell, these are the 1950's bearings for the 4E Jointer. They were sealed, not shielded. It did change back and forth apparently through the years. If you read the Bearing Document as it exists even in the draft form, this topic is covered already.
If you have ever worked in manufacturing, you already realize that a professional cost control analyst (bean counter for parts acquisitions) will find cheaper parts, even foreign sources for parts, if they think they can save a buck. Shopsmith was never that way. Quality was always
front and center, and it is today. A bearing today doesn't have to last 60 years. 20 is usually fine.
I am working on the Planer and that will be the last in the structure of the document, but by no means is the document finished at that point. If it were a house under construction, it's not even 'dried-in' yet.
Everett
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
There is a lot more to all this than just an R8-ZZ number.
Good enough for Shopsmith...Good enough for me. HOWEVER: I have linked to VXB and I cannot say for certain that the bearings on the Cutter Head were by VXB.
https://www.vxb.com/R8ZZ-Shielded-Beari ... r8zz-1.htm
Good enough for Shopsmith...Good enough for me. HOWEVER: I have linked to VXB and I cannot say for certain that the bearings on the Cutter Head were by VXB.
https://www.vxb.com/R8ZZ-Shielded-Beari ... r8zz-1.htm
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
-
masonsailor2
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:57 am
- Location: Las Vegas NV
Re: Jointer Exploded Parts Drawing - Now available
Thanks for again another great addition to the library of drawings and specs. I really appreciate the work you guys have done. It is very nice to have those drawings and specs when you need them. I swear those bearings on the jointer are bullet proof. I leave mine permanently connected to the headstock that is my sliding table saw also so the jointer runs every time the machine is on and those bearings just keep on trucking.
Paul
Paul