10ER rebuild

[jsburger]

Welcome to the forum. You have found a true gem.

Looking really good. Yes the jointer head rest is fairly rare as is the jointer. However, the rarest thing is the motor pulley assembly for the jointer. It is extremely rare. I have only heard of a few complete sets. I bought the only complete set I have ever seen on eBay a few years ago and it cost me almost $75. The machine came standard with a 5/8" bore 3 step pulley. The motor shaft is not long enough to accept a fourth pulley so Magna came up with the parts you have to extend the shaft to add the pulley to drive the jointer. The 3 step pulley is 13/16" bore the same as the head stock pulley. That accommodates the sleeve and the shaft extension for the jointer pulley. 13/16" bore pulleys are not standard and I have never found them anywhere.

The other thing you have is the hinge plate that attaches the jointer to the head rest. It took me years on eBay to find the two that I have and they weren't cheap. The reason is (I believe) that they are easily broken. The plate is cast iron and the two ears on the plate that bolt to the jointer are not very big given the weight of the jointer. If you pivot the jointer down and it slips and falls you have a good chance of breaking off the ears. Take very good care of that item. You may never find another one.

It was a steal for $100 with the jointer. The jointer with the headrest and pulley assembly would easily be over $400 alone. And that is if you could even find all those parts.

[JPG]

You are doing great!!!!

Be advised you may attach 10 pictures per post.

As John said you have some very rare parts, so do take care of them.

Have you seen MickuD's restoration thread? It is encouraging and informative to say the least.

One suggestion, Delay using abrasives until AFTER rust is chemically removed.(Evaporust or electrolysis) Power abrading should be used sparingly.

Keep up the posting progress.

John did not say so, but he is adamant re good bearings(fafnir) and replacing all of them. A no brainer.

Yes this is a post WW2 design intended for DIY. No fancy smancy parts.

Be on the lookout for a speed changer. Expect to pay more for it than the 10ER.

As for your boss's opinion, typical for one who never owned/used one.

[badtheba]

You are doing great!!!!

Be advised you may attach 10 pictures per post.

As John said you have some very rare parts, so do take care of them.

Have you seen MickuD's restoration thread? It is encouraging and informative to say the least.

Thanks! I'm taking it slow. I don't have all the bearings pulled yet, but I will be going a couple miles from the bearing supplier I mentioned tomorrow. Besides looking through Everett's Google Drive documents, is there a quick way to know what bearing numbers to give them without pulling everything apart tonight? Did all the 10e/er's use the same bearings?

I'm attempting to edit my first posts now with uploads instead of hosted photos. What is the file size? If I hit "place inline" once after uploading multiples, does it place all of them inline with one click?

I don't think I've looked up that thread yet, but I saw pics of his in one of the showcase threads. I'm not looking to do a complete restoration with repainting at this point, but may in the future. At this point I want to get it in fully functioning condition while not making anything worse than before.

[Dansmith]

Good thread. I'll be interested in what you decide to do on the treadmill motor that you are considering. I've been conidering the same thing for one of my 10er's.

[badtheba]

You are doing great!!!!

Be advised you may attach 10 pictures per post.

As for your boss's opinion, typical for one who never owned/used one.

I think I figured out the attachment thing, and was able to go back and edit each post so there are no linked external pictures now.

In his defense, we ran a full production cabinet shop with 4-6 employees building $60,000-100,000 kitchens. He has an Altendorf panel saw, Brandt edge bander, Jet floor drill press, etc. All things that are nearly required for custom (not mass production) cabinetry where you need to quickly change from one thing to the next in assembly line fashion. However I am just planning on using the Shopsmith for home and possibly projects to sell, no production environment. In the back of my mind I'm still looking for a dedicated old Craftsman contractor table saw as I don't think the Shopsmith will quite live up to what I'm used to with his Powermatic cabinet saw accuracy.

[badtheba]

Good thread. I'll be interested in what you decide to do on the treadmill motor that you are considering. I've been conidering the same thing for one of my 10er's.

I haven't found the motor yet, but I do network maintenance for that same bike/fitness shop today and have told the owner and service buys to be on the lookout. When I worked there, we'd sometimes be throwing out $2000-3000 treadmills because belts, decks, computer boards weren't available. They'd have good 2-3HP motors in them from Baldor, Pacific Scientific, and other brands that were quite strong motors. None of us ever thought then we'd ever need them.

In fact I could have had a 1.5HP Baldor for nothing just a few months ago, until they needed the space in a storage trailer and threw out the treadmill. Oh well.

Also, someone in the Yahoo users group is sending me the saw splitter (my only missing part so far) to attach my guard for only the cost of shipping and gas money. So he has dibs on whatever second motor I get. But if I get a windfall then maybe I could start offering them on here. When I worked there, I probably could have taken home one strong motor a month... I'm not talking the cheap Walmart treadmills.

[badtheba]

Went to Harbor Freight to get Evapo-Rust today, thought I'd get the 1 gallon until I saw the price, $25.99. Ordered it through my wife's work for probably around $18... I can wait till Thursday.

So I had some extras in the drawer that I couldn't figure out what they used them for or how they mounted. Some of this included grinding wheels that didn't fit the arbors, etc. One of the things hit me when I saw a barbed air hose fitting with male pipe thread that had marks on the barbs from the drill chuck. Would you call this stupidity, or ingenuity? Lol. My grandpa would have done this very same thing on the farm.

image0016.jpg (141.31 KiB) Viewed 14421 times

[badtheba]

Be on the lookout for a speed changer. Expect to pay more for it than the 10ER.

This may be a dumb thought... I see a lot of info on the cast aluminum bridge piece of the speed changer cracking, and various things people have done to repair them or piece them back together. Has anyone ever tried to adapt the parts from a broken speed changer onto a tube tie bar? I see them on ebay for ~ $10 plus shipping, and it seems like someone could adapt the adjustment knob/screw to fit on top of longer set screws used as studs, by way of nuts/plates, and then fit a pivot sleeve to the way tube itself without having to reduce the thickness of the cast iron at all. I'm actually picturing this as good bonding time between me and my father in law at his machine shop, to get a cheap homemade speed changer.

Call me stupid if it's not worth my time, but my father in law always tells me if there's a drawing he can probably do it. Seeing that I married his only child, I kind of get preferential treatment.

[jsburger]

You are doing great!!!!

Be advised you may attach 10 pictures per post.

As John said you have some very rare parts, so do take care of them.

Have you seen MickuD's restoration thread? It is encouraging and informative to say the least.

Thanks! I'm taking it slow. I don't have all the bearings pulled yet, but I will be going a couple miles from the bearing supplier I mentioned tomorrow. Besides looking through Everett's Google Drive documents, is there a quick way to know what bearing numbers to give them without pulling everything apart tonight? Did all the 10e/er's use the same bearings?

I'm attempting to edit my first posts now with uploads instead of hosted photos. What is the file size? If I hit "place inline" once after uploading multiples, does it place all of them inline with one click?

I don't think I've looked up that thread yet, but I saw pics of his in one of the showcase threads. I'm not looking to do a complete restoration with repainting at this point, but may in the future. At this point I want to get it in fully functioning condition while not making anything worse than before.

Yes, ask. ASAIK all Model 10's used the same bearings. They are Fafnir bearings. They are still available today. They do cost a bit more but they will last for your lifetime. After all your original bearings are almost 70 years old and probably in reasonable shape. Having said that, I would never refurb a Model 10 without replacing the bearings with the original ones.

Timken bearings owns the Fafnir line now so when you specify original Fafnir bearings they may be in a Timken box. The bearing it self should still say Fafnir on it as Timken still uses that name for it's ball bearings.

Here are the numbers...

Drive Sleeve 205KLL2
Quill 202KLL3

I sugest you check A&W Bearings in Dallas.

http://www.awbearings.com/

That is where Skip Campbell buys his bearings. Their prices are great. The last set I bought were cheaper than the local Motion Industries here. Just specify original Fafnir and that is what you will get. Lisa in the sales department even knows Skip by name.

[jsburger]

Be on the lookout for a speed changer. Expect to pay more for it than the 10ER.

This may be a dumb thought... I see a lot of info on the cast aluminum bridge piece of the speed changer cracking, and various things people have done to repair them or piece them back together. Has anyone ever tried to adapt the parts from a broken speed changer onto a tube tie bar? I see them on ebay for ~ $10 plus shipping, and it seems like someone could adapt the adjustment knob/screw to fit on top of longer set screws used as studs, by way of nuts/plates, and then fit a pivot sleeve to the way tube itself without having to reduce the thickness of the cast iron at all. I'm actually picturing this as good bonding time between me and my father in law at his machine shop, to get a cheap homemade speed changer.

Call me stupid if it's not worth my time, but my father in law always tells me if there's a drawing he can probably do it. Seeing that I married his only child, I kind of get preferential treatment.

The only reason for cracking is poor maintenance and gorilla tactics.

I doubt that what you are suggesting will work because with a thicker bracket the pulley on the head stock would not line up. You could move the head stock pulley out on the shaft but then the pulley would not be seated fully on the shaft.