10ER rebuild

[RonKlein]

While I wait for my rust dissolver to get off the delivery truck today, I actually did more on the jointer than any of the rest of the machine, as it seemed easiest to start on for now. I ordered those bearings (rubber sealed versions this time) and cleaned up the cutter head. If I tape off the surfaces that the blades and wedges seat against, and the shaft bearing seats, can I paint the cutter head itself?

Something you might consider: For the cutter head, (and any other metal parts, where the black finish is worn) is to take a look at gun bluing solutions. In addition to the protection they provide, they add no appreciable build up on the surface, and the cost is minimal.

Ron

[badtheba]

Round 1 of Evapo-rust. It was worth the wait, got a gallon for only $16 from my wife's work, HF was $26.

I am pretty happy with the results, with most of the small parts taking 3-5 hours before I could brush and rinse them clean. The cutter head was sightly pitted on the outer surfaces, but I was pretty impressed with how clean it came out. Almost looked like I had polished parts of it.

Right now I just sprayed wiped them down with T-9 (other than the cutter head that I'm painting). Is the paste wax recommended on things like arbors and lathe spurs too?

Pictured also is the saw splitter that I received today. Cost $10 total from someone in the Yahoo users group. Were these parts zinc coated? This one kind of looks like it.

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[everettdavis]

You are saving your Evaporust for reuse correct? I filter mine through a filter like Mr. Coffee filter then store it for later use.

If the temperature is 80 or above, it works faster, so leaving it in a cold shop overnight can take a good bit longer to work, and may evaporate more liquid.

Looks like you are well on your way! Looking forward to seeing things as they complete, but the in process photos are so valuable. I am glad you are sharing them with us.

Everett

[Guest]

[quote="everettdavis"]You are saving your Evaporust for reuse correct? I filter mine through a filter like Mr. Coffee filter then store it for later use.

If the temperature is 80 or above, it works faster, so leaving it in a cold shop overnight can take a good bit longer to work, and may evaporate more liquid.

Looks like you are well on your way! Looking forward to seeing things as they complete, but the in process photos are so valuable. I am glad you are sharing them with us.

Everett[/quote]

Yes to saving evapo-rust. I bought the largest small mixing pail with lid they had for all the small parts. Good idea on the filter, I think I'll go grab a paint funnel filter from the cabinet shop for it.

I brought everything indoors at 68 degree a while before I started to let the cast jointer table warm up. The bottle says non toxic, but I didn't read anything about fumes indoors. I hope that's safe???

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[badtheba]

You are saving your Evaporust for reuse correct? I filter mine through a filter like Mr. Coffee filter then store it for later use.

If the temperature is 80 or above, it works faster, so leaving it in a cold shop overnight can take a good bit longer to work, and may evaporate more liquid.

Looks like you are well on your way! Looking forward to seeing things as they complete, but the in process photos are so valuable. I am glad you are sharing them with us.

Everett

Yes to saving evapo-rust. I bought the largest small mixing pail with lid they had for all the small parts. Good idea on the filter, I think I'll go grab a paint funnel filter from the cabinet shop for it.

I brought everything indoors at 68 degree a while before I started to let the cast jointer table warm up. The bottle says non toxic, but I didn't read anything about fumes indoors. I hope that's safe???

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[JPG]

Fumes should not be a concern.

[badtheba]

Just peeled back my paper towels and brushed off the front jointer table. As far as the table surface, it now appears very flat with a straightedge, but has 3-4 rougher feeling spots. Do I just leave it be and wax it? I've been reading not to use a RO sander, but we used to use one all the time with 220 or smaller to clean up our jobsite Rockwell table saw and never thought a thing of it.

Also looking at the dust collection chute kit for older model jointers on SS website. Wondering first if it fits models that don't use the SPT posts, and second if it would interfere with anything besides the drop down feature. Having it in place would seem like it would prevent the damage from accidentally dropping the jointer, but maybe inhibit its ability to swing down at all. In that case it would always have to be removed to put the 10ER vertical, which would also (hopefully) prevent damage.

Does current Shopsmith stick to a standard size for their dust collection ports?

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[badtheba]

Also, does everyone normally sandblast or similar on the underside of these cast iron pieces to eliminate all old paint, or just paint over it?

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[JPG]

Also, does everyone normally sandblast or similar on the underside of these cast iron pieces to eliminate all old paint, or just paint over it?

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I use citrus strip to remove old paint. Then use self etching primer to prevent further rust. Also use that primer on aluminum undersides(they just look nicer).

[rjent]

I have steam cleaned the underside of the headstocks on both my rebuilds and try to get the self etching primer on before it cools down, but after it dries. I like the primer color, but don't like it when in drill press mode, so I usually paint the underside whatever color I paint the HS as well. Tape inside the holes before painting, helps reassembly.

JMHO