I have an A Head stock, but I don't drop the motor to lubricate.
Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover, slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way.
Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,
I can easily lube the motor spindle,
I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout.
I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to makes sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.
The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.
I do this about once a month (or earlier if I've been using my machine a lot)
I've never felt a need to drop the motor just to lube the idler shaft.
Am I missing something??
Greenie Lubrication
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- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I be curious how you get the oil to the idler shaft/control sheave from that position.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
I'll take photos next time I have it up for lubrication. Probably in a few weeks, shop time has been severely curtailed due to Marching Band Season being in high gear (Just 3 more shows this year) and my weekends are spent doing band stuff or routine chores.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Re: Greenie Lubrication
i am sorry if i am ignorant, but on my greenie with no access panel, where DO i put the oil since there is no oil hole that i can see. (i get i need to drop the pan, but still have no idea what to do next. thank you.
Re: Greenie Lubrication
terrydowning wrote:I have an A Head stock, but I don't drop the motor to lubricate.
Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover, slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way.
Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,
I can easily lube the motor spindle,
I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout.
I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to makes sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.
The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.
I do this about once a month (or earlier if I've been using my machine a lot)
I've never felt a need to drop the motor just to lube the idler shaft.
Am I missing something??
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
.
.
Bob
- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: Greenie Lubrication
I have mentioned this before but I don't have an early headstock that I am willing to modify at this time.
I have attached a photo of a stainless steel inspection port for marine application that might be a real easy solution. There are a host of types of ports in metal or plastic and prices across the board.
Were I to use this one, recognizing the area it would mount is not 100% flat, I would mount it with auto masking tape on the back side, then fill the gaps with JB Weld to fashion what would appear to have been a cast stand-off for it, then touch up the paint accordingly.
It would be simple, and solve the problem. One could still affix the logo plate if desired and have a finished inspection port.
This 316 stainless steel highly polished inspection port includes a deck ring and cap. The cap is supplied with an o ring to ensure a watertight seal.
Specifications
I.D: 75mm (3")
Flange O.D: 119mm (4-11/16")
Cut Out Hole Size: 85mm (3-3/8")
Thoughts?
I have attached a photo of a stainless steel inspection port for marine application that might be a real easy solution. There are a host of types of ports in metal or plastic and prices across the board.
Were I to use this one, recognizing the area it would mount is not 100% flat, I would mount it with auto masking tape on the back side, then fill the gaps with JB Weld to fashion what would appear to have been a cast stand-off for it, then touch up the paint accordingly.
It would be simple, and solve the problem. One could still affix the logo plate if desired and have a finished inspection port.
This 316 stainless steel highly polished inspection port includes a deck ring and cap. The cap is supplied with an o ring to ensure a watertight seal.
Specifications
I.D: 75mm (3")
Flange O.D: 119mm (4-11/16")
Cut Out Hole Size: 85mm (3-3/8")
Thoughts?
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Re: Greenie Lubrication
I did say I would post photos. Sorry it's taken so long. (5 years! Really?)
I have an A head stock and I don't have an inspection hole. I really don't want to drill or cut on my headstock.
Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover,
NOTE: I upgraded the screws on mine to 5/32 allen head socket cap screws.
The original threads were stripping out and I had to do something. So I replaced with the socket screws and used some JB weld to fasten corresponding nuts to the inside of the headstock.
now I can use my magic tool for removing the screws. slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way. Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,
I can easily lube the motor spindle,
I insert a screw driver into the spring and spread it apart in several locations.
I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout. The oil just has to get on to the shaft it does not have to go in some magic hole.
I put the tip of the oiler between the sheaves and shoot some oil onto the shaft. Spin it a bit and put some more on a different part of the shaft.
I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to make sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.
The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.
Just the way I do it for a quick lube.
I do sometimes drop the motor. if more thorough cleaning is required. In which case I reverse the table on the carriage put some cardboard down loosen the screws and fold the motor pan down onto the table.
I have an A head stock and I don't have an inspection hole. I really don't want to drill or cut on my headstock.
Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover,
NOTE: I upgraded the screws on mine to 5/32 allen head socket cap screws.
The original threads were stripping out and I had to do something. So I replaced with the socket screws and used some JB weld to fasten corresponding nuts to the inside of the headstock.
now I can use my magic tool for removing the screws. slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way. Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,
I can easily lube the motor spindle,
I insert a screw driver into the spring and spread it apart in several locations.
I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout. The oil just has to get on to the shaft it does not have to go in some magic hole.
I put the tip of the oiler between the sheaves and shoot some oil onto the shaft. Spin it a bit and put some more on a different part of the shaft.
I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to make sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.
The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.
Just the way I do it for a quick lube.
I do sometimes drop the motor. if more thorough cleaning is required. In which case I reverse the table on the carriage put some cardboard down loosen the screws and fold the motor pan down onto the table.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Greenie Lubrication
When oiling the floating sheave, the oil Needs to get between the motor shaft and the sheave, not on the outside of the sheave Hub.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange