Motor Wiring

[dzawacki]

Okay, I've attached photos of the switch in the Forward and Reverse positions. I've also included a photo of what appears to be where the wire is grounded.

[JPG]

A crude sketch.

Three 3 conductor cords.

one is the power cord

one connects the run windings

one connects the start circuit

motor fwd rev barrel switch.jpg (32.39 KiB) Viewed 8109 times

If forward/reverse is backwards, reverse red and black wires(at the motor)

Realize that rapid switching from forward to reverse(and vice versa) will not reverse rotation unless the motor is stopped in between.

If you do not fully understand this please ask before connecting this up!

All green wires connect to ground(switch or motor).

[dzawacki]

So I followed your diagram and wired up everything I could except the ground wires because I can't figure where they connect on the motor. Every time I flip the switch, I trip the breaker that it's plugged into.

I was talking to my dad about this because he's my usual go to for these types of things, and he asked the hard-hitting question. What difference is a 1/4hp going to make? Can anyone chime in on that? Is it worth it to do this upgrade or should I stick with the working 1/2hp setup I currently have?

[beeg]

You have any problems cutting stuff with the 1/2HP motor on the ER?

[JPG]

Hard hitting question #2. Did the motor run before?

#2a have you tried running it without the barrel switch(direct wired).

#2b What else is connected to the branch circuit controlled by the breaker.

#2c Does the motor try to rotate at all?

[JPG]

Please verify that you did NOT leave any of the wires(red/black/white/green) internal to the motor connected to any of the terminals 1,2 4 on the motor.

If you did, it would explain the breaker tripping.

A closer look by me at the low volt/high volt information reveals the internal wiring is slightly different than I assumed earlier. If you did not attach any wires to the terminal 1,2 4 on the motor, the motor will not run as I indicated earlier.

Please take a pix of how you tried to connect it up.

Take a pix of both the motor wiring and the switch wiring.

[dzawacki]

So I have had some trouble cutting wood with the 1/2hp motor. However, I haven't tried adjusting the speed to a higher rpm for sawing. I have a speed changer, but I've been avoiding setting it up because I think I have a problem with it every time I put it on. More on that later.

I think I made a bunch of rookie mistakes with the motor wiring because I wasn't comfortable with it. JPG, your diagram seemed very straightforward, but your follow-up questions made me think I misread something. For the time being, I'm going to stick with the 1/2hp motor and if I can get my dad over to show me what I'm doing wrong, I'll try the upgrade to the 3/4hp then.

Back to the speed changer, I keep searching for a visual set up guide to get a high speed range out of it, but I'm coming up short.
Also, there is the thumb screw holding the sheeve on to the shaft. Everytime I turn on the ShopSmith, this thumbscrew tightens against the sheeve and heats up. I don't feel like this is how it should work. Today I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and lubed everything and it still had the same problem when I put it back on the machine. Any thoughts? Is this normal?

[JPG]

First I must apologize for being incomplete with my instructions. I purposefully did not include the terminal block terminals since I felt that it would simplify things. However since then I went back and took a closer look at the hook up info on the motor tag. As I originally sketched it without any wires on the terminal, it simply would not have run. Since you experienced tripping the breaker, I suspect you did connect something to the terminals.

What I initially overlooked was that the run windings are internally connected to terminal 1 and 4(on end of each run winding). There are two run windings and they are connected in parallel across terminals 1 and 4 for lower voltage(120) and in series using terminal 3 for high voltage(240).

I am about to leave, but will later make a new sketch that will include the terminals in the motor as well as the motor internal wiring(as best I can surmise).

It might be helpful to ascertain that the motor does indeed run when connected as described on the tag before adding the drum switch.

[jsburger]

So I have had some trouble cutting wood with the 1/2hp motor. However, I haven't tried adjusting the speed to a higher rpm for sawing. I have a speed changer, but I've been avoiding setting it up because I think I have a problem with it every time I put it on. More on that later.

I think I made a bunch of rookie mistakes with the motor wiring because I wasn't comfortable with it. JPG, your diagram seemed very straightforward, but your follow-up questions made me think I misread something. For the time being, I'm going to stick with the 1/2hp motor and if I can get my dad over to show me what I'm doing wrong, I'll try the upgrade to the 3/4hp then.

Back to the speed changer, I keep searching for a visual set up guide to get a high speed range out of it, but I'm coming up short.
Also, there is the thumb screw holding the sheeve on to the shaft. Everytime I turn on the ShopSmith, this thumbscrew tightens against the sheeve and heats up. I don't feel like this is how it should work. Today I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and lubed everything and it still had the same problem when I put it back on the machine. Any thoughts? Is this normal?

No that is not how it should work. The cause is the sintered bronze bushings. When the sheave assembly is installed on the speed changer shaft the bronze bushing on the end where the nut goes should not extend past the shoulder on the shaft where the nut screws on. The nut should bottom out on the flange of the shaft and not the flange of the bushing. Either one of your bushings is not fully seated or the bushing flanges are slightly too thick causing enough friction between the nut and the bushing flange to cause heat up.

If one of the bushings is not fully seated just use a small hammer and block of wood and GENTLY (sintered bronze is brittle) tap on it to reseat it. If they are fully seated then put a piece of fine sand paper on a flat surface and lightly sand the face of one or both flanges. I should not take much. I had one that tightened up tight enough to keep the sheave assembly from turning.

[rpd]

However, I haven't tried adjusting the speed to a higher rpm for sawing. I have a speed changer, but I've been avoiding setting it up because I think I have a problem with it every time I put it on, I keep searching for a visual set up guide to get a high speed range out of it, but I'm coming up short.

Also, there is the thumb screw holding the sheave on to the shaft. Everytime I turn on the ShopSmith, this thumbscrew tightens against the sheeve and heats up. I don't feel like this is how it should work. Today I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and lubed everything and it still had the same problem when I put it back on the machine. Any thoughts? Is this normal?

Here is a link to the speed changer manual. It shows how the belts go for High and Low range.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/338/2714.pdf

Note, one of the belts is longer than the other. The longer belt goes to the motor for High range, and to the drive sleeve for Low Range.

And here is a link to an article about adjusting and maintaining the speed changer.

https://www.mkctools.com/speed%20changer%20setup.htm

As John said, the sheaves should float free on the shaft and not bind against the thumbscrew.