pen turning questions
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pen turning questions
Turning 7mm pen blanks for Christmas and I'm new to pen turning.
Questions: Do you turn the blank down even with the bushings? Any reason one can't make your own pen blanks out of scrap wood? What if the hole bored into the blank isn't perfectly centered? What woods should a novice turner stay away from? Any tips on drilling a perfectly straight hole in the blanks? Any tips on sharpening the lathe tools?
Bob
San Diego
Questions: Do you turn the blank down even with the bushings? Any reason one can't make your own pen blanks out of scrap wood? What if the hole bored into the blank isn't perfectly centered? What woods should a novice turner stay away from? Any tips on drilling a perfectly straight hole in the blanks? Any tips on sharpening the lathe tools?
Bob
San Diego
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paulmcohen
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- Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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rdewinter wrote:Turning 7mm pen blanks for Christmas and I'm new to pen turning.
Questions: Do you turn the blank down even with the bushings? Any reason one can't make your own pen blanks out of scrap wood? What if the hole bored into the blank isn't perfectly centered? What woods should a novice turner stay away from? Any tips on drilling a perfectly straight hole in the blanks? Any tips on sharpening the lathe tools?
Bob
San Diego
For 7mm pens you must turn the blank even with the bushing otherwise the pen is very uncomfortable to use and looks bad.
You can use any scrap wood you want to make pen blanks.
The hole will be in the center as soon as you touch a tool to the wood. If you start with a standard blank (I forgot the exact size) and drill an off center hole you will not have enough wood to end up with a round pen. If you start with a wider blank, it is not as important to be exactly centered. Most commercial blanks are barely wide enough for any play.
No comment on wood choice, but highly figured woods look great for pens but are harder to turn. Straight grain wood is easier to turn but may not look as good.
I use a wood jig (purchased from Rockler) to drill the holes, they just came out with a newer one made of metal that I love. If you Google "Pen drilling Jig" you will find lots of free plans.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Here is a link to a Saw Dust session that should answer most of your question plus a few.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... g_Pens.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... g_Pens.htm
Enjoy a little sawdust therapy
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
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cincinnati10
- Gold Member
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:01 pm
Bob,
You turn the pens flush with the bushings at the ends. This way the pen part that presses into the tube blends at that end. I have tried some designs that involve a curve profile of the lower barrel. A few are OK, but many I dislike. I prefer a straight even diameter upper pen barrel because the clip will bend if you try much of a fancy profile there. Experiment with the cheaper slimline kits.
You do not have to start with a perfectly drilled center hole. The closer you get to center, the less imbalance you have as you start to turn the pen. The important thing is to have a clean and straight hole with no wobble of the blank or the bit. Us some sort of blank drilling vise and a drill press. Use sharp clean bits. Use sharp clean lathe chisels.
I have a Water cooled sharpening wheel and a honing wheel to touch up the tools as I use them.
You turn the pens flush with the bushings at the ends. This way the pen part that presses into the tube blends at that end. I have tried some designs that involve a curve profile of the lower barrel. A few are OK, but many I dislike. I prefer a straight even diameter upper pen barrel because the clip will bend if you try much of a fancy profile there. Experiment with the cheaper slimline kits.
You do not have to start with a perfectly drilled center hole. The closer you get to center, the less imbalance you have as you start to turn the pen. The important thing is to have a clean and straight hole with no wobble of the blank or the bit. Us some sort of blank drilling vise and a drill press. Use sharp clean bits. Use sharp clean lathe chisels.
I have a Water cooled sharpening wheel and a honing wheel to touch up the tools as I use them.
I have tried several pen drilling vice jigs. The only one I have ever had excellent luck with was made by Paul Huffman in Oklahoma City. A search on google this evening came up blank. Have have no idea if he still makes them. You will be far happier with your pen making once you find a means to centere drill your blanks. If he still makes them you should find information on the vice on penturners.com which is an excellent discussion group for a beginning pen turner to learn the craft. fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
There are several ways to drill the holes in the center. One way is to use the drill press as already stated. Another is to use a chuck. Put the pen blank in the chuck and use a drill bit in the tail stop. Run the SS at a slow speed and move the quill lever. With 7MM bits you have no problems with blow out. When using larger bits make sure your blank is cut longer then you need. Drill a little deeper then you need but not clear thru. Then cut the blank to correct size. This way you will avoid a blow out.
One other tip is to make sure that you are square on both ends of the tube. If you do not then a gap will appear. Gaps are one of the most common mistakes in pen turning.
One other tip is to make sure that you are square on both ends of the tube. If you do not then a gap will appear. Gaps are one of the most common mistakes in pen turning.
When I have a few minutes I will take a picture of the jig and vice I use for pen blank drilling. I found it took such a combination to achieve accurate center drilling for pen blanks. Perhaps more important than the jig and vice combination is a very sharp bit and extreemly slow drilling. One must stop frequently and back out of the hole all the way to clear chips and be certain the bit remains cool. Remember please you are drilling into hard materials and the bits tend to find the course of resistance. Slow drilling with chip free bits is the best way to get the results you desire. My jig pictures have been taken and hopefully will follow later this evening. fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Okay here are the promised pictures. The first shows the top side of the vice mounted on the jig I built for it. I learned the hard way that if the vice isn't totally stable it twists and moves.
The second picture shows how the vice is bolted to the jig. Secondly how even ugly mistakes can be corrected and finally make a useable jig. Finally how four t-nuts properly located with phillips head screws from the top side create a totally stable drilling jig. Once I got the table the way I wanted it I used a marker to show where the jig needs to be located on the table so it is automattically centered every time I use it. Incidentally I also use adjustble legs to keep the front corners of the table steady while in drill press mode and a bottle jack to steady the rear of the table. Yes I am picky I don't enjoy wasting even a single pen blank nor do I like to do anything over. fjimp
The second picture shows how the vice is bolted to the jig. Secondly how even ugly mistakes can be corrected and finally make a useable jig. Finally how four t-nuts properly located with phillips head screws from the top side create a totally stable drilling jig. Once I got the table the way I wanted it I used a marker to show where the jig needs to be located on the table so it is automattically centered every time I use it. Incidentally I also use adjustble legs to keep the front corners of the table steady while in drill press mode and a bottle jack to steady the rear of the table. Yes I am picky I don't enjoy wasting even a single pen blank nor do I like to do anything over. fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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flashbacpt
- Gold Member
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Concord, Ca.
Pen Turning Questions
The whole process of turning pens basically requires more "prep" work than the actual turning. The prep work involved in drilling the blanks, gluing in the brass tubes, squaring the ends takes up the majority of one's time.
Therefore, when I turn pens, I prefer to make the entire process as smooth as possible, utilizing my time to the best of my ability. I do not go thru the entire prep process to turn only one pen. It is simply not worth the effort and time!
My prep work always involves six or more pens, and I do not use any pen drill guide, or any hand tool to square the ends of the blanks. I would suggest that one spend their money on a good pen press, than a drill guide.
All my prep work is done on the SS, utilizing the saw table, the miter guage, and disk sander. I start with all my blanks having at least two square sides, the more the better, but two sides will work. Utilizing the horizonital drill position, I simply install my drill chuck, and a sharp bit. I then mark the center of the blank, and using the saw table adjust the height of the bit. I then adjust the secondary position utilizing the miter gauge, and locking same in its track when position on center. Using a small backing piece of wood to prevent blow out, I then use the quill to complete the drilling process, setting the depth of cut with the quill lock.
With this setup, I can quickly drill all my blanks. I then rough up the brass tubes with sandpaper, apply glue to the tubes, and insert same into the blanks for drying over night.
The next morning, I just remove the drill chuck, and install a disk sander. I then move the miter gauge to a position to accomodate sanding the ends of the blanks, and again lock it down. I now just have to take my glued up blanks and place them against the miter gauge, and feed the blank into the sanding disk. A light touch is all that it takes, and one ends up with perfectly square ends.
As indicated earlier, you must be aware of the pen clip when turning. However, you can still turn a design if carefull. For me, it all depends of what the wood grain looks like, as you are turning the pen, that dictates the final design or look.
I have just completed the above prep work for a few Christmas Gifts, and hopefully, if the Shop Demons do not raise their heads, I will have some pictures to show in the next couple of days.
FlashbacPT
John:)
By doing a mass production of prep work, I have blanks ready to go when the need arises for a gift, etc.
Therefore, when I turn pens, I prefer to make the entire process as smooth as possible, utilizing my time to the best of my ability. I do not go thru the entire prep process to turn only one pen. It is simply not worth the effort and time!
My prep work always involves six or more pens, and I do not use any pen drill guide, or any hand tool to square the ends of the blanks. I would suggest that one spend their money on a good pen press, than a drill guide.
All my prep work is done on the SS, utilizing the saw table, the miter guage, and disk sander. I start with all my blanks having at least two square sides, the more the better, but two sides will work. Utilizing the horizonital drill position, I simply install my drill chuck, and a sharp bit. I then mark the center of the blank, and using the saw table adjust the height of the bit. I then adjust the secondary position utilizing the miter gauge, and locking same in its track when position on center. Using a small backing piece of wood to prevent blow out, I then use the quill to complete the drilling process, setting the depth of cut with the quill lock.
With this setup, I can quickly drill all my blanks. I then rough up the brass tubes with sandpaper, apply glue to the tubes, and insert same into the blanks for drying over night.
The next morning, I just remove the drill chuck, and install a disk sander. I then move the miter gauge to a position to accomodate sanding the ends of the blanks, and again lock it down. I now just have to take my glued up blanks and place them against the miter gauge, and feed the blank into the sanding disk. A light touch is all that it takes, and one ends up with perfectly square ends.
As indicated earlier, you must be aware of the pen clip when turning. However, you can still turn a design if carefull. For me, it all depends of what the wood grain looks like, as you are turning the pen, that dictates the final design or look.
I have just completed the above prep work for a few Christmas Gifts, and hopefully, if the Shop Demons do not raise their heads, I will have some pictures to show in the next couple of days.
FlashbacPT
John:)
By doing a mass production of prep work, I have blanks ready to go when the need arises for a gift, etc.