Brass wedge locks

[badtheba]

I'm wondering if there is a source for aftermarket brass lock wedges to replace the mashed alloy wedges that came in my second ER. I found exactly 1 post from 2010 on here about someone replacing the 2 piece wedges with brass, but they didn't say where they got them. Nothing appears on eBay, and sites like Skip's just show the repair method by filing, and no replacement parts. I don't think filing mine will be a long term solution, as they are more like ovals than circles. By comparison, the one piece locks on the first ER I picked up work great.

Would I be better off stopping my search and adding that to the list of things to do/make at my father in law's machine shop this summer?

[everettdavis]

You may want to look at http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690 and review the document in the Magna 10E & 10ER folder in My Google Drive that discusses the changes through the years to those models.

I originally compiled that as a supplemental appendix I created and added into the 10E Preliminary Manual I restored collaboratively with John Burger.

My 10E sn 1414 has brass locks.

I have considered duplicating a brass wedge set from brass stock and milling the profile. Photos of mine are in that document. I do not believe it would be hard to fabricate equivalent pieces. Interesting that you are thinking along that same line.

Everett

[badtheba]

I'm aware of the production change, and have seen your comment in that document that yours had them originally. However, it doesn't appear that it's a part that can be "found" to replace the double wedge version, so it may need to be created.

The only mention I found on this forum of someone purchasing them was here: https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 8-s20.html. It's from 2010, and it doesn't say where he got them. He appears to be active still, so I'll revive that thread and ask there.

The main reason I am considering making them is that whenever I discuss anything like this with my father in law, he makes everything sound so simple (but he's done it all his life). Once we get some warm weather he's going to show me through his shop and I'll get to observe and use some of the tools to work on my SS parts.

When I first attempted to get the wedges to release on mine, I realized the nut had protruded out the back of the rear wedge and was just spinning, and the rear wedge was stuck on the tube. The wedge had also mashed down so much that it had formed internal threads and the bolt would not slip outward to get the nut to seat again. A couple taps with a mallet and I eventually got everything loose, but have not reinsterted them yet. As soon as I fix this issue that 10ER will be in service, as I don't really plan on doing two complete restorations.

[badtheba]

My 10E sn 1414 has brass locks.

I have considered duplicating a brass wedge set from brass stock and milling the profile. Photos of mine are in that document.

Do you know off hand if your quill lock has any kind of keyway "protrusion"? Mine (aluminum) has a rectangular protrusion milled on the rear wedge, and a steel pin pressed into a drilled hole in the front wedge. The pin appears that it actually presses against the quill and gets "bent" back, deforming the alloy. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in this wedge maybe 1/4" further from the inside of the wedge , so it would still align in the casting but not get near the quill. As this wedge set is not mangled, I think I can reuse it with that simple change.

[badtheba]

Mine has the front wedge like pictured here (stolen from eBay), but my rear wedge has the "key" machined on it instead of a pin inserted.

s-l1600.jpg (524.55 KiB) Viewed 10851 times

[everettdavis]

Mine is slip fit on the front, threaded through the back, with no key or pins.

Right now the machine is stowed away in the back of the shop, with 7 Mark V restoration projects in front of it.

Everett

[chapmanruss]

Does your headstock have the keyed quill lock hole? If so it needs the correct wedges. Someone tried to adapt a plain double wedge set to "work" in a keyed quill lock machine. There are three different quill lock wedges depending on when a machine was made. The first is the double wedge lock with wedges front and back and the original ones were made of brass. The second are the double keyed wedges followed by the third which use a single front wedge only. Getting the correct wedge set will solve your problem as long as the keyway in the headstock has not been damaged. The picture is of the different Quill locks. Sorry not the correct handle on the single wedge lock.

[chapmanruss]

Are the wedges you are talking about from the Model 10ER pictured in the Model 10ER rebuild thread you originally started that has the Model 4E Jointer? I just went back and looked at the pictures. That one does not have a keyed quill lock and will use either the plain double or single wedge lock. Can you post a picture of the front and back side of the headstock so we can tell what it needs?

[badtheba]

Are the wedges you are talking about from the Model 10ER pictured in the Model 10ER rebuild thread you originally started that has the Model 4E Jointer? I just went back and looked at the pictures. That one does not have a keyed quill lock and will use either the plain double or single wedge lock. Can you post a picture of the front and back side of the headstock so we can tell what it needs?

No, the wedge locks on my second 10ER (the one I am not restoring) are two piece. The one in my rebuild thread has no issues locking or unlocking.

All three appear to be correct for the machine, including the quill lock. I have seen a few other pics online of the front quill wedge with a pin in it, so I assumed it was something they did in production. But since the pin actually seems to contact the quill and "peen" over, then you're probably right that this is someone's modification.

The tube lock wedges are noticeably mashed. I'm going to start by cutting or filling off the inside ends, as it looks like they smashed down worst where the material was thinnest. One of them actually formed threads on the end of the bolt so it has to be unscrewed with the inner nut.

I'll take pics as soon as I get them back.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[jsburger]

Are the wedges you are talking about from the Model 10ER pictured in the Model 10ER rebuild thread you originally started that has the Model 4E Jointer? I just went back and looked at the pictures. That one does not have a keyed quill lock and will use either the plain double or single wedge lock. Can you post a picture of the front and back side of the headstock so we can tell what it needs?

No, the wedge locks on my second 10ER (the one I am not restoring) are two piece. The one in my rebuild thread has no issues locking or unlocking.

All three appear to be correct for the machine, including the quill lock. I have seen a few other pics online of the front quill wedge with a pin in it, so I assumed it was something they did in production. But since the pin actually seems to contact the quill and "peen" over, then you're probably right that this is someone's modification.

The tube lock wedges are noticeably mashed. I'm going to start by cutting or filling off the inside ends, as it looks like they smashed down worst where the material was thinnest. One of them actually formed threads on the end of the bolt so it has to be unscrewed with the inner nut.

I'll take pics as soon as I get them back.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Skip Campbell has a youtube video on how to restore the wedges. When the wedges are squeezed closed so the handle can not be removed he uses a pin punch laid length wise in the opening and gently taps on it to open the slot. Depending on how closed the slot is will determine the diameter of the pin punch to start with. You end up with a 1/4" pin punch. Just tap gently and progress up in the pin punch diameter until you get to 1/4".

I have done this and no filing required. It works perfectly. This is with the one piece wedge so I don't know if the two piece wedges are the same.