pen turning mandrel problem

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rdewinter
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pen turning mandrel problem

Post by rdewinter »

I'm trying to turn some pens for Christmas presents. Having trouble finding the best solution to attach a #2 morse 7mm mandrel to the headstock. Currently using a saw blade arbor to hold mandrel but it's not the best solution. The #2 mandrel won't fit into the drill chuck, so that's not a option.
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Any suggestions for attaching mandrel to headstock?

I know I need to replace the dead center in the tailstock with a live center.

Bob
San Diego
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

See if you can remove the rod from the #2 Morse taper part, the mandrels for the Shopsmith either come without that part of have a 5/8" hole like the other Shopsmith accessories.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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curiousgeorge
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Post by curiousgeorge »

Bob,
You are in luck. Penn State Industries has the Shopsmith pen turning mandrel on sale right now for $17.95, reg. $24.95 ...

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-CL.html
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
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rdewinter
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Post by rdewinter »

Paul,
If I read your post correctly, yes I can unscrew the rod from the #2 Morse taper part, then just chuck the rod into my 1/2" chuck and use that to power the mandrel. That's brilliant! That's what I love about this forum, people who use their brains and experience and share it. Thank you.

Bob
San Diego
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kd6vpe
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Post by kd6vpe »

Well folks,
I had just ordered the PennState mandrel myself to try to make pens. Here is what I did yesterday. I fount the mandrel to work out just fine on the shopsmth in fact the set screw is the right size for the shopsmith. I used a woodrcraft kit with the mandrel and everything fit fine. I plan on using this pencil for marking my turnings it's fat and study. Next I will move on to the pens for gifts. I was a lot of fun just have to pay attention to the drilling part. I wasted a few peirces of wood until I got it right. Have fun.
Jim
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SS 500 upgraded to 510; SS bandsaw; SS jointer
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curiousgeorge
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Post by curiousgeorge »

rdewinter wrote:Paul,
If I read your post correctly, yes I can unscrew the rod from the #2 Morse taper part, then just chuck the rod into my 1/2" chuck and use that to power the mandrel. That's brilliant! That's what I love about this forum, people who use their brains and experience and share it. Thank you.

Bob
San Diego

Thank you for your answer George, but I think I will try Paul's suggestion first.:rolleyes:
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

Even though I suggested using your drill chuck it is not a good long term solution. A drill chuck is not designed for side pressure.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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ryanbp01
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Post by ryanbp01 »

Can't you unscrew the mandrel from the taper and insert the shaft into the chuck? I don't use the tapers. I haven't had any problems using the chuck to hold the shaft.

BPR
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jbooher
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Post by jbooher »

Yes you can take the morse 2 taper off and used your drill chuck.

James
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curiousgeorge
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Post by curiousgeorge »

ryanbp01 wrote:Can't you unscrew the mandrel from the taper and insert the shaft into the chuck? I don't use the tapers. I haven't had any problems using the chuck to hold the shaft.

BPR
In the post previous to yours, Paul stated that you could do this. But, it is not a good long term solution because the drill chuck was not made to take the sideways pressure caused from lathe work. Yes, it will work for a while but eventually your chuck will break. So, why not just go ahead and buy a mandrel that will fit your Shopsmith and do it right? It will save you not having to buy a new drill chuck AND a mandrel later.:D
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
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