Lathe Center stuck on Morse Taper shaft

[ShalomOrchard]

I soaked the Lathe Center in Envaporust in Drill Press Mode for two days.
It looks pretty, but it still won’tt Come off.
I’ve tried tapped it on the sides with two hammers, and prying between the lathe center an the knurled aluminum collar; Nothing Gives!

Running out of ideas!

[JPG]

Heat/wedge.

Not sure what tapping on sides with two hammers means???

[everettdavis]

It is time for a bearing puller I would say. Consider after you finally get into the quill assembly to replace the bearings, you will likely need it for them, and on the other end of the quill assembly on the drive sleeve assembly.

If you have hammered on the spindle and bent it even slightly in your process of trying to free up the part, it may be more expensive to repair than to replace with a used part from eBay.

IF you go there, just make sure you buy the one for the type drive you have Gilmer (toothed) or Poly-V style as the number of teeth on the back side of the spindle are different spline tooth count.

Everett

Bearing Puller.jpg (22.08 KiB) Viewed 8388 times

[chapmanruss]

At this point I agree with Everett about replacing the quill. As I recall you were going to have to buy a Bearing Puller so apply that money to a replacement Quill, you could be saving money in the long run. Having used a hammer to "tap" on the sides and other prying done may have bent the spindle shaft. Since it doesn't want to move still, cutting it off may be necessary. Any additional prying, "tapping" or cutting may damage the spindle if it isn't damaged already.

Do you know which drive assembly you have? Gilmer or Poly-V? It will make a difference on buying a replacement Quill assembly. The age of your Mark 5 will also make a difference and if you do not know we can tell by the Serial Number. Add a picture of the belt cover's vent/serial number plate. At the time of the change from Gilmer to Poly-V drive there were some that had special parts that would require changing the Drive Sleeve too, but these are rare. If your's is a Poly-V single bearing Quill and you would like to upgrade to a two Bearing Quill now would be a good time for that. September 1984, the Two Bearing Quill replaced the Single Bearing Quill in headstocks Serial number 190000 & above.

Currently on eBay are rebuilt quills for sale. A two Bearing Poly-V Quill from Simon E for about 90 plus shipping and single Poly-V Quill or Gilmer Drive Quill from ldrickert for about 40 plus shipping. These all have new bearings and are from people I have bought parts from and they do quality work.

[everettdavis]

Equally whether you have a very early machine or not, you may find someone who has done the DIY upgrade on a far more current 510 or 520 to a PowerPro and has an exceptional collection of replacement parts for you if they aren't building a 2nd machine from them.

I bought these parts on eBay and it included the Drive Sleeve, 2 bearing Quill, Speed Control mechanism, Control Sheave Assembly, 1-1/8 HP motor with Sheave Set, both belts, and a power cord, switch assembly that can be a really good upgrade. I paid about $210.00 for all of it, including shipping. Motor was near perfect paint. I traded the bits and pieces to another owner who needed the Gilmer parts as a core to rebuild his 1954 Greenie, for some hardwoods that I had a hard time sourcing locally.

I only say that based on the rusty condition of the quill assembly photo, and the realization that you may have a good bit of work elsewhere to do where rust exists.

Everett

[WildHorseHans]

How is a bearing puller going to work? The silver part goes around the back of the part to be removed and the screw shaft in the middle goes on the point of the part to be removed. It's pulling on itself. That is like standing in a bucket and trying to lift the bucket by the handle.

Am I missing something here?

[chapmanruss]

The bearing puller halves (the silver parts in the picture from Everett) are tapered and clamping them together could "pry" the part off. He would not need to use the other puller parts (shown in black).

[rjent]

I am a little late to this, but a GOOD slide hammer might do the trick. Try to find or borrow/rent a three jaw slider.

Other than that, change the quill like it has been suggested ..

JMHO

[everettdavis]

How is a bearing puller going to work? The silver part goes around the back of the part to be removed and the screw shaft in the middle goes on the point of the part to be removed. It's pulling on itself. That is like standing in a bucket and trying to lift the bucket by the handle.

Am I missing something here?

Yes the bearing separator as you tighten the bolts on it applies axial force due to the wedge. Based on the gap between parts being separated, one may have to cut the side out of 5/8 washer or notch a piece of flat steel to slip behind the separator to get the wedge lip in the right place to apply pressure to do the separating, but showing the whole tool was to illustrate that the tool set is available to pull off the bearings once the other part is off.

Now that he has it de-rusted I wonder if a 50/50 Mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid bath might provide the penetration he needs to free it without the separator, but he will need that anyway to pull off (or press off) the bearings in the quill.

Note: Acetone mix is Flammable.

Everett

[drGeek]

Thank You Russ for such detailed information on shopsmith arbors!!!