Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

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jct
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Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by jct »

I've removed the rust from 8 small parts so far. I used a wire wheel on my flex shaft to remove the paint splatters and loose rust, and then soaked them for 7 hours in Evapo-Rust. You can see the results for four of them in the pic.
ss8.JPG
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Jim
10ER S/N 86645 ('52 or '53) with 3/4 h.p. A.O. Smith motor
texan63
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by texan63 »

Wow- the parts look great. Looks like Evapo is a good choice for rust removal. Hope you show more pics during the process. This is a very informative topic. Thanks for sharing!
Travis, Freeport FL
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jct
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by jct »

texan63 wrote:Wow- the parts look great. Looks like Evapo is a good choice for rust removal. Hope you show more pics during the process. This is a very informative topic. Thanks for sharing!
Travis, Freeport FL
Thank you! This is the first time I've used Evapo-Rust, and I'm surprised by how well it worked. I was expecting it to take 12-24 hours, but 7 was actually too long. The parts were starting to turn black. I'll check the next batch more frequently.

I think that removing the loose rust probably sped up the process. The wire wheel I used in my Foredom flex shaft was the little kind like you would use in a Dremel. It removed the paint and loose rust without scratching the steel.
Jim
10ER S/N 86645 ('52 or '53) with 3/4 h.p. A.O. Smith motor
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by chapmanruss »

You are off to a great start. Keep us informed on your progress. I need to finish my "honey do's" so I can get back to working on my 10E S/N 1077.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
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everettdavis
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by everettdavis »

Evaporust works well. It works best and fastest when ambient room temperature is 75-80 degrees or higher. Winter soaks benefit from being inside.

I wrote a comprehensive document titled "Got Rust?" that is on My Google Drive that examines various methods and techniques.

It has lots of photos, hot links to forum posts, hot links to YouTube videos, with a broad discussion on what to do and perhaps not do for various pars and pieces.

There is a lot to take in, and yes Evaporust is covered with notes and techniques.

You are doing very well on your restoration. As Russ said take pictures and post them here.

We love photos and our brothers and sisters who preserve these amazing machines!

Blessings

Everett
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jct
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by jct »

Thanks Russ and Everett! I've downloaded "Got Rust?" and will try the trick of raising the machine to the drill press position and soaking the arbor and spindle in Evapo-Rust to get the set screw out. That's the one piece that I've failed to budge so far. Here's a before and after photo from the second batch of parts to have an Evapo-Rust bath. These parts were in for 5 hours with temps in the mid 70s.
handles.JPG
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I opened up the 3/4 h.p. A.O. Smith motor yesterday to inspect it. It had a lot of sawdust in it, which I cleaned out. Other than that, it looked great. The bearing at the pulley end seemed to move slightly roughly, and I was afraid I might have to replace it. But after I lubricated it, it ran smoothly. This motor is HEAVY, much heavier than a modern 3/4 h.p. motor. It takes serious muscle to raise it into the vertical position. Does anyone have any tricks or gadgets to help raise a Shopsmith with a heavy motor?
ss5c.JPG
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Jim
10ER S/N 86645 ('52 or '53) with 3/4 h.p. A.O. Smith motor
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rjent
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by rjent »

jct wrote: Does anyone have any tricks or gadgets to help raise a Shopsmith with a heavy motor?
ss5c.JPG
I have a slick (I think anyway) design coming (if I can ever get back to it LOL) on doing just that. I will try to finish the project and get it posted in the next few months. I want to make sure it is safe to use (should be) and as functional as I think it will!

FWIW :)
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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rpd
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by rpd »

jct wrote:This motor is HEAVY, much heavier than a modern 3/4 h.p. motor. It takes serious muscle to raise it into the vertical position. Does anyone have any tricks or gadgets to help raise a Shopsmith with a heavy motor?
ss5c.JPG
Great job on the restoration, keep up the good work. :cool:
My solution was to get a second 10ER that I use as a dedicated drill press. ;)

This video may have some ideas for you. :)

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M30uvwZdLmE[/youtube]
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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jct
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by jct »

Thanks, Ron. It looks like your car jack works well. My jack isn't easy to get to. It is hidden in a compartment under my trunk, under a lot of junk. And although it's been years since I had to change a tire, Murphy's law dictates that if I don't have the jack in my car, I will get a flat. Maybe I'll look for a cheap used jack at the flea market.

Dick, I look forward to seeing what you've come up with.

I have an idea for a counter-weight at the end of a lever that I might try.
Jim
10ER S/N 86645 ('52 or '53) with 3/4 h.p. A.O. Smith motor
Hobbyman2
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Re: Beginning to remove the rust from my 10ER

Post by Hobbyman2 »

nice job on the restoration
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
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