Got a question for my fellow woodworkers

[reible]

I have a project coming up where I will be using or at least want to use 1/4" plywood as dividers. In the past I just get out the router and the undersized bit and go to work. In this case it would seem I might be better off doing it on the shopsmith using the table saw. So the question, is how do you do 1/4" plywood dados without having to make two passes with say an 1/8" blade?

I have several dado blades and box joint blades but in each case they cut pretty close to 1/4" widths and well that is just too loose for my purpose.

Since cost is also a factor I was hoping to use big box store plywood which we know is going to be about a 1/32" thin. I guess I could go to another material but not yet.

So what say you?

Ed

[dusty]

I have a project coming up where I will be using or at least want to use 1/4" plywood as dividers. In the past I just get out the router and the undersized bit and go to work. In this case it would seem I might be better off doing it on the shopsmith using the table saw. So the question, is how do you do 1/4" plywood dados without having to make two passes with say an 1/8" blade?

I have several dado blades and box joint blades but in each case they cut pretty close to 1/4" widths and well that is just too loose for my purpose.

Since cost is also a factor I was hoping to use big box store plywood which we know is going to be about a 1/32" thin. I guess I could go to another material but not yet.

So what say you?

Ed

You just negated my only constructive criticism. I would tackle this challenge with 1/4" hardboard.

May only other thought would be to search for a specialty router bit (1/4"). Unless you are cutting a deep dado, a good bit (that small) should handle the load.

Now for the search.

[twistsol]

You could always use the method my dad used that I thought was insane. He kept a stamped steel blade around specifically for this purpose and would hammer every other tooth left or right to increase the kerf of the blade, Just like setting the theeth on a hand saw.

I just suck it up and do two passes on my radial arm saw.

[dusty]

Search was a snap and the cost is not exorbitant and especially if it gives you a good snug fit.

https://www.rockler.com/straight-router ... k-2-fluted

You could also do this using Baltic Birch 1/4" plywood. My experience has been that Baltic Birch is consistent with its' advertised dimensions (though it is a bit more costly).

I do many of my projects with Baltic Birch just because I enjoy working with it. It behaves well under both blade and knife.

[Ed in Tampa]

You could always use the method my dad used that I thought was insane. He kept a stamped steel blade around specifically for this purpose and would hammer every other tooth left or right to increase the kerf of the blade, Just like setting the theeth on a hand saw.

I just suck it up and do two passes on my radial arm saw.

That is how I do it. Have an old steel blade modified to make perfect cut for 1/4 ply.
Keep it around just for those occasions.

Actually it is fairly adjustable. A few taps with the hammer to widen or make the fit tighter.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Sounds like a good application for a wobble-dado blade.

[reible]

I have two sets of undersized router bits that I use for this purpose, and they work well. How ever I was thinking about not going with the router due to the number of cuts, a table saw would be much faster if you can get by making one cut but if you have to double up then it is more then likely not worth it.

I can see doing some ruff cuts with bent teeth but I think they will tear up the plywood really badly. Besides I don't have any old steel blades they are so 70's and before. It would be interesting to see how much damage that would do but..... I don't want the results to look like a squirrel did the job.

I do have a wobble blade which I can dig out and test to see how narrow it will cut.

It would be nice to have a snug fit so I don't have to mechanically or glue the pieces in place, I want them to pull out for changes in spacing but not come out too easy. A fine line to get the right fit.

Time to check the wobble blade and then let you know the results.

Ed

[reible]

Well look at this:

20180830_145311_resized.jpg (205.82 KiB) Viewed 13846 times

Problem solved! Thank You!

Didn't even think to check this blade. So add this as a positive for wobble blades.

Ed

[Gene Howe]

Glad you solved your dilemma. For those who DON'T have a wobble blade, check out Freud's box joint cutter set. Two 8" blades with a range of 1/8, 1/4, and, 3/8. I'm certainly no fan of Freud saw blades, but these are pretty good.

[reible]

Glad you solved your dilemma. For those who DON'T have a wobble blade, check out Freud's box joint cutter set. Two 8" blades with a range of 1/8, 1/4, and, 3/8. I'm certainly no fan of Freud saw blades, but these are pretty good.

If this is the same set I have then you really only have 1/4 and 3/8. Freud says you have to use both blades. Note this is the one called SBOX8 and I got it back on the fourth of July 2013 for use with my ibox jig. Unless something has changed???

Ed