Ed's original question was how to do it on the SS table saw with a saw blade and not having to make two passes, not with a routerdusty wrote:Search was a snap and the cost is not exorbitant and especially if it gives you a good snug fit.
https://www.rockler.com/straight-router ... k-2-fluted
You could also do this using Baltic Birch 1/4" plywood. My experience has been that Baltic Birch is consistent with its' advertised dimensions (though it is a bit more costly).
I do many of my projects with Baltic Birch just because I enjoy working with it. It behaves well under both blade and knife.
Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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masonsailor2
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
Other than having a specialized saw blade it’s going to take two passes !
Paul
Paul
Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
The ad from Rockler says that using one blade will make a 1/8 groove. Dunno, I've never tried it.
Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
IMO It depends on your blades and the set up you chose ,as well as how accurate you tools are, what I do any more is use the shoulder / cheek method , makes a nice tight and clean looking joint , I use the router or saw and under cut the width of the dado a little ,and then cut cheeks on the rabbit ,,,you can do it on the table saw or router , found it easier to adjust the thickness of the rabbit then the width of thee dado when using my stacked dado blades, regardless test test test until it is right. JM.02
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
I was told that due to the asymmetric nature of the blades you shouldn't do that. I think one side of the blade has a normal amount of clearance while the other side doesn't. But if Rockler says it OK who am I to disagree.......Gene Howe wrote:The ad from Rockler says that using one blade will make a 1/8 groove. Dunno, I've never tried it.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
Well, one of the blades almost must be asymetric. It's probably the one that gets flipped to cut either 1/4" or 3/8". At any rate, the set does produce nice flat bottomed 1/4"cuts.
- dusty
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
OKAY, Ed. Now you have me wondering. If you already have this Freud Box Joint Cutter Set, why wasn't it the go to solution?
Does your 1/4" plywood actually measure less than a 1/4"? That was my initial interpretation of the original post.
BTW, thanks for the reminder. I have that same wobble blade but I did not know where it was at. This relocation that I have just been through has caused a lot of things to be hard to find. After reading your post, I went out and tracked down my wobble blade.
Does your 1/4" plywood actually measure less than a 1/4"? That was my initial interpretation of the original post.
BTW, thanks for the reminder. I have that same wobble blade but I did not know where it was at. This relocation that I have just been through has caused a lot of things to be hard to find. After reading your post, I went out and tracked down my wobble blade.
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Dusty
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Dusty
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- Ed in Tampa
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
Ed
I guess I do not understand your problem. You mentioned you wanted a dado slot for ply that would be slightly less than 1/4 inch. You said that 1/4 inch cut would be too loose. You also mentioned you did not want to make double passes. And assume you wanted flat bottom cuts.
The wobble blade that you say is the solution makes non flat bottom cuts that are nearly impossible to dial in within a 1/32. Plus you want to go less than a 1/4 and that is the lower limit of the blade. So I do not see how this is a solution.
I guess I do not understand your problem. You mentioned you wanted a dado slot for ply that would be slightly less than 1/4 inch. You said that 1/4 inch cut would be too loose. You also mentioned you did not want to make double passes. And assume you wanted flat bottom cuts.
The wobble blade that you say is the solution makes non flat bottom cuts that are nearly impossible to dial in within a 1/32. Plus you want to go less than a 1/4 and that is the lower limit of the blade. So I do not see how this is a solution.
- JPG
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Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
I doubt the slight bottom curvature of a less than 1/4" groove will be significant.Ed in Tampa wrote:Ed
I guess I do not understand your problem. You mentioned you wanted a dado slot for ply that would be slightly less than 1/4 inch. You said that 1/4 inch cut would be too loose. You also mentioned you did not want to make double passes. And assume you wanted flat bottom cuts.
The wobble blade that you say is the solution makes non flat bottom cuts that are nearly impossible to dial in within a 1/32. Plus you want to go less than a 1/4 and that is the lower limit of the blade. So I do not see how this is a solution.
The pix of the wobble blade posted appears to have a 3/16" lower limit.
I assume Reible's wobble blade is fine tunable so as to allow 'it' to be a solution.
HEY, if 'he' is satisfied, who are 'we' to have objections.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Got a question for my fellow woodworkers
Yes the plywood I'm thinking of using is less then 1/4". The sticker from the pile:dusty wrote:OKAY, Ed. Now you have me wondering. If you already have this Freud Box Joint Cutter Set, why wasn't it the go to solution?
Does your 1/4" plywood actually measure less than a 1/4"? That was my initial interpretation of the original post.
BTW, thanks for the reminder. I have that same wobble blade but I did not know where it was at. This relocation that I have just been through has caused a lot of things to be hard to find. After reading your post, I went out and tracked down my wobble blade.
And from past experience this number varies depending on the lot.
For those of you decimal challenged folks a true 1/4" should be .250, the .234 is then undersized. And while it would be possible to get by with a standard 1/4" cutter it would be better to cut closer to the real size you need and that is what I'm hoping to do.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]