motor update in 1956 Greenie
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JPG
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Re: motor update in 1956 Greenie
You do NOT need to REPLACE the motor pan.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: motor update in 1956 Greenie
So Ron, should I have adjusted my speed dial to less than the SAW setting?
Would that have helped?
Would that have helped?
Re: motor update in 1956 Greenie
Assuming the alignment is good then the next two important things are that you have either a rip blade or a comb blade, the preference is for the rip blade and make that a thin kerf one. Second is the speed, "heavy ripping" would be "O" on the speed dial. Yes you will need to feed slower but that is how it works.
What ever path you take to repair or replace the idea is not to have this happen again if you can help it.
Ed
What ever path you take to repair or replace the idea is not to have this happen again if you can help it.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: motor update in 1956 Greenie
Possibly, The motor runs at the same speed, at the spindle more speed = less torque. So if the blade is bogging down, turning down the speed can help.cjblack wrote:So Ron, should I have adjusted my speed dial to less than the SAW setting?
Would that have helped?
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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everettdavis
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Re: motor update in 1956 Greenie
Ok you had something really fry in the motor. Before you think all is lost on the motor, the GE was notorious for having motor lead wires that got brittle and insulation broke off them.
If un-insulated cracked wires touched, it would create a dead short, fry off more insulation, stink to high heaven, and trip the breaker.
If you pull the motor out and remove the back end bell you can tell more of what happened. If it is motor leads, and not burned windings, it can be repaired perhaps by replacing the motor leads and soldering in new leads of the appropriate size/ and color where possible.
If they are bad, the power cord isn't likely too far behind. We can surely hope it is not the windings burned and shorted. Worth a look for sure if you are up to that level of repair.
Once you are inside, if it is that, a good motor repair shop might be of some assistance if you are not comfortable doing it.
See this thread for a brief discussion https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 93#p148493
I know they talk about heat shrink over the bad wires, but it is far better to replace them if the wire is bad and insulation cracking off.
Also you may find some interesting reading in https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 48#p244548
From your answers to my questions previously the 5/8" arbor and thin kerf blade is about as good as you can get for re-sawing with a table saw, and slowing the blade down, and really slowing down feed rate as suggested will help a great deal.
Really hope you can find a less cost solution to get it back in service and finish that rocker with time to spare.
Kindest Regards,
Everett
If un-insulated cracked wires touched, it would create a dead short, fry off more insulation, stink to high heaven, and trip the breaker.
If you pull the motor out and remove the back end bell you can tell more of what happened. If it is motor leads, and not burned windings, it can be repaired perhaps by replacing the motor leads and soldering in new leads of the appropriate size/ and color where possible.
If they are bad, the power cord isn't likely too far behind. We can surely hope it is not the windings burned and shorted. Worth a look for sure if you are up to that level of repair.
Once you are inside, if it is that, a good motor repair shop might be of some assistance if you are not comfortable doing it.
See this thread for a brief discussion https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 93#p148493
I know they talk about heat shrink over the bad wires, but it is far better to replace them if the wire is bad and insulation cracking off.
Also you may find some interesting reading in https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 48#p244548
From your answers to my questions previously the 5/8" arbor and thin kerf blade is about as good as you can get for re-sawing with a table saw, and slowing the blade down, and really slowing down feed rate as suggested will help a great deal.
Really hope you can find a less cost solution to get it back in service and finish that rocker with time to spare.
Kindest Regards,
Everett