Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

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P89DC
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Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by P89DC »

I`m fixing to rehab my 1986 and while I'm in there I'd like to replace the quill bearings on my dual bearing quill. The usual ebay sellers seem to sell only shielded for the dual bearing quills and sealed for the single bearing quill.

Should I use shielded? I'm kinda down on sealed bearings as both my Shopsmiths have needed bearing replacement and I always have replaced the factory shielded bearing with sealed.

- can I go to my local bearing supplier and get sealed bearings?

- are these are the correct sizes?
Double Bearing (Poly-V): 6002 ZZ and 6003 ZZ
Last edited by P89DC on Mon Apr 08, 2019 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
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everettdavis
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by everettdavis »

Remove the quill, and inspect what you have in it. There are factory OEM variations, 3rd party alterations done by sellers or previous owners

Measure your shaft sizes and get the numbers on the bearings that are there now.

Personally I use sealed on the outer and shielded on the innermost.

Key is to insure you know exactly what to order. Likely you have a bearing supplier locally that can help you.

Everett
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jsburger
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by jsburger »

everettdavis wrote:Remove the quill, and inspect what you have in it. There are factory OEM variations, 3rd party alterations done by sellers or previous owners

Measure your shaft sizes and get the numbers on the bearings that are there now.

Personally I use sealed on the outer and shielded on the innermost.

Key is to insure you know exactly what to order. Likely you have a bearing supplier locally that can help you.

Everett
Please correct me if I am wrong. Shaft sizes have not changed. OEM bearing numbers may have due to manufacturer have but the sizes are the same.

I would not trust a bearing number from an old machine. I think we know the size of the OEM bearings so that is the what should be bought.

As far as sealed or shielded there is no difference in the performance in this application. The difference is in how much dirt is kept out. I will always default to sealed if it is available. The cost for the bearings we are talking about is not that much different to not buy the sealed.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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JPG
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by JPG »

When in doubt, measure the shaft diameter and the bore diameter.
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P89DC
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by P89DC »

I'll take the old bearings to my local bearing supplier and have him size them. To rebuild my 1986 with all new belts and bearings I'll have spent ~$125. If a seal cost an extra $2 I can't see any reason not to go sealed for both so I will.

Thanks for all the great answers!
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
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everettdavis
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by everettdavis »

John,

There are three sources of modified quills we all know of. Bill Mayo put out 4 different variations, which included modification to the quill housing to allow a bearing to be inserted from the spline end, Hog Winslow has a series of modified quills, and of course Skip Campbell offers them. You can even see a video of his modifications on his site.

Jacob Anderson has a series of bearings he sells, but to my knowledge he has not altered the quill assemblies. Others have.

There are variations in the spindles as some are two piece pinned, some two piece interference fit, and one piece.

It is the reason I say examine what you have and measure. It is discussed in some detail in the Shopsmith Bearings Guide I wrote in 2017.
Mark V Bearings and Spindles.png
Mark V Bearings and Spindles.png (217.47 KiB) Viewed 18121 times
If one bought their unit from the Mothership, then Shopsmith can generally provide you the bearings based on the serial number.

Everett
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jsburger
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by jsburger »

everettdavis wrote:John,

There are three sources of modified quills we all know of. Bill Mayo put out 4 different variations, which included modification to the quill housing to allow a bearing to be inserted from the spline end, Hog Winslow has a series of modified quills, and of course Skip Campbell offers them. You can even see a video of his modifications on his site.

Jacob Anderson has a series of bearings he sells, but to my knowledge he has not altered the quill assemblies. Others have.

There are variations in the spindles as some are two piece pinned, some two piece interference fit, and one piece.

It is the reason I say examine what you have and measure. It is discussed in some detail in the Shopsmith Bearings Guide I wrote in 2017.
Mark V Bearings and Spindles.png
If one bought their unit from the Mothership, then Shopsmith can generally provide you the bearings based on the serial number.

Everett
Very true. I was not thinking modified but they do exist.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
P89DC
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by P89DC »

I am the original owner of my 1986 510. I picked it up at the shipping depot in Cedar Rapids in factory cartons. It has been in my possession since then. While I did rebuild the motor in the late 90's nothing else has been touched. It'll have the OEM two bearing quill released in 1985. I'll disassemble the quill and take all the parts to my local bearing stockist and let him sort out the details.

Thanks for all the help!
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
P89DC
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Re: Replacing dual quill bearings; sealed or shielded?

Post by P89DC »

My quill was a two piece unit as show in the chart above. As mine is an 1986 model it's the second one down. It's held together with a roll pin that must be driven out to remove the inner bearing. Once the roll pin is removed and the shaft is separated into two pieces the inner bearing can be removed. It cannot be driven off the shaft over the splines, the shaft must be separated. I took the bearings and short shaft to my LBS (Local Bearing Stockist) and they had exactly what I needed, just under $20 for both bearings.

6002 and 6003 size, I went with fully sealed:
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1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
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