Mark7 Routing

[mdrdlee]

I have a 510 that I am trying to sell. I have used it extensively and made many things with it.
I upgraded to a Mark 7 mainly for the increased table size and the table saw fence. I am trying to use the Mark 7 as a router (Under and Over table). I need to get both 1/4" and 1/2" chucks. When I looked at them on the SS site I see that they use set screws instead of a compression collet. Do people use these? It looks like it would be unstable and the bit could move around.
Next question, what type of fence is used, I see the shaper fence and it looks like it would work. I wish the SS site had better and more detailed information.
I really like the new Mark 7 although I find that it is a little slower to setup than the 510 was for different operations. Maybe I was younger and more accustomed to the 510.
I just found this forum and I hope to be able to get valuable info and perhaps even give some.
Thanks in advance.

[garys]

I've done routing with my Mark 5 using the Shopsmith 1/2" router chuck with the set screws. Tolerances seem to be tight enough so it doesn't wobble at all. And, I found a bushing that is 1/2" outside and 1/4" inside. With that bushing stuck into the 1/2" chuck it becomes a 1/4" chuck that also works well.

[DLB]

Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone (PTWFE) has a section on using the Mark() for routing. It is 510, but the concepts are easily adapted to 520/M7. Generally, they utilize the rip fence either with or without a shop made facing board, depending on the type of cut, and a shop made sliding table. Under table isn't discussed, but I would think the same approach to fences would work. There is also a bit of info on horizontal routing. A good place to start, and if you don't have a copy it is on the SS website:
https://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routing/index.htm

On a 520 or M7, I would consider making the facing board in two pieces, each mounted to the fence with two T-nuts, and allow for an adjustable center gap.

There are also quite a few Sawdust Session videos on the Mark-mounted Overarm Router. While that is not like a M7, some of the principles apply.

- David

[chapmanruss]

mdrdlee,

Welcome to the Forum.

Shopsmith has had different Router Chuck options. There are the 1/2" and 1/4" ones you mention with the two set screws to hold the bit. This type has been used for years going back to the Shopsmith Model 10's. There was also a 5/16" Router Chuck that was discontinued long ago. The other was the 1/2 Eliminator Chuck P/N 556451 introduced in 2017 but has now been discontinued from the SS catalog. A 1/4" Collett P/N 523146 was also available to use 1/4" shank Router Bits with the Eliminator Chuck. Below is a picture of the different Router Chucks. The top row is a 5/16" and two 1/4" Router Chucks. The bottom row is 1/2" Router Chucks.

Router Chucks - labeled.jpg (226.53 KiB) Viewed 10640 times

Depending on the router operation you can use the Shaper/Drum Sanding fence with Router bits also. Just make sure you get the version for the Mark V 510, 505, 520 and Mark 7.

I did find your comment below interesting

I upgraded to a Mark 7 mainly for the increased table size and the table saw fence.

The Mark V 510 has the same table system as the Mark V 520 and Mark 7 just the different Pro Fence system.

[mdrdlee]

Thank you.

[mdrdlee]

Russ, thank you for a very good answer. I really appreciate that effort.
Concerning the table on my 510 (that is what I think it is) 13 1/4" by 18 1/4"
The Mark 7 is 17 1/2" by 22"

The rip fence is much better and the table is flatter. My old table was not very flat. I was considering an upgrade to get the extension tables and the upgraded table saw table and a new headstock. A new one was not much more.

I have made a lot of things (a lot more than with the Mark 7) with my old SS. I did run a saw blade through my finger with the old one. The finger was reattached and works well. I will never get rid of that blade.

Mike

[garys]

It looks like you got shortchanged on your 510 table. My 510 has the 17x22 table not the 13x18 one.

[jsburger]

It looks like you got shortchanged on your 510 table. My 510 has the 17x22 table not the 13x18 one.

Don't think he was short changed. He doesn't have a 510 he has a MK 5/V 500.

[SkullsquadronX]

Well let me say Welcome to the Shopsmith forum and it good to have you here mdrdlee.

[DadsSS]

This might be to your point in this 2020 post. I am trying to use the overhead shaper on a 510. Running a 1/2" leveling (grizzly bit) in the 1/2" shaping chuck. I am trying to level uneven slats in butcher block. However, each pass is at a slightly different level then the last so it is not leveling at all. After about a pass and a half the level is quite far off. I tried retracting the quill all the way and moving the powerhead directly to the work surface just to trouble shoot whether or not there was variance in the quill depth. I got the same result. It appears that either the bit is moving within the chuck or the chuck is moving on the drive shaft (the bottom of the work piece hasn't been planed but it doesn't have that much variation). I noticed two marks on the bit shaft that seems like maybe the bit is sliding within the chuck (pics below).

Just wondering if anybody knows of something I am doing wrong or has a fix for it, or maybe it is as Mark7 Routing said and the chuck just is not nearly stable enough compared to a pressure collet?? Perhaps I need to try to obtain and OPR or a sled for this operation?

IMG_0264 (1).jpeg (139.67 KiB) Viewed 3032 times