Changing extension table tubes
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dannyshamoon
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- Location: Clovis, CA.
Changing extension table tubes
How difficult is it to change the tubes used like on the tailstock? Somewhere I saw that a heat gun will allow the tubes to be removed, is this true? I think I want to installed longer tubes on the tailstock to give more rigidity for turning and drilling.
Thanks
Danny
Thanks
Danny
Re: Changing extension table tubes
Danny,
Someone did this quite recently on the Facebook Shopsmith group, probably in the last week or maybe two.
Someone did this quite recently on the Facebook Shopsmith group, probably in the last week or maybe two.
Roy
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desktop size, Avid 5x10 Pro CNC w/ATC, CNCed G0704 milling machine
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Way too much other stuff and not enough space
Mark V/510, Mark V/500 with parts for 510 upgrade, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, DC3300 w/1 micron bag
Sawstop 3HP 36" PCS w/router table insert
Home designed and built CNC router, another CNC router
Laser engraver
Way too much other stuff and not enough space
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dannyshamoon
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- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2015 3:01 pm
- Location: Clovis, CA.
Re: Changing extension table tubes
Roy... Thanks, I believe that's where I saw about the heat gun. I know I can order the tube mount assembly for an extension table from SS. $56.roy_okc wrote:Danny,
Someone did this quite recently on the Facebook Shopsmith group, probably in the last week or maybe two.
Danny
- dusty
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Re: Changing extension table tubes
I doubt that longer tubes would increase rigidity. They are totally unobstructed on the lower side and will move freely with the tailstock.dannyshamoon wrote:How difficult is it to change the tubes used like on the tailstock? Somewhere I saw that a heat gun will allow the tubes to be removed, is this true? I think I want to installed longer tubes on the tailstock to give more rigidity for turning and drilling.
Thanks
Danny
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- chapmanruss
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Re: Changing extension table tubes
I believe Dusty is correct. Once the tubes pass through the mounting holes, indicated by the arrows in the picture below, there is no additional support provided.
The holes in the base are there only to allow the extension table tubes to pass through when lowered not to provide any support.
The holes in the base are there only to allow the extension table tubes to pass through when lowered not to provide any support.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
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All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
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Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
- dusty
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Re: Changing extension table tubes
Excellent image. Using this image to suggest a possible solution....you might be able to immobilize the tubes by inserting a wedge between the tubes and the casting.chapmanruss wrote:I believe Dusty is correct. Once the tubes pass through the mounting holes, indicated by the arrows in the picture below, there is no additional support provided.
Base and Arm - arrows.jpgThe holes in the base are there only to allow the extension table tubes to pass through when lowered not to provide any support.
You might also gain some stabilization by wedging between the tubes and the edges of the holes in the base arm.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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dannyshamoon
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Re: Changing extension table tubes
I think what Dusty said has some merit and is what I'm looking at to ave some kind of wedge or a way to strap the tubes to help from giving when drilling from the tailstock.
Danny
Danny
Re: Changing extension table tubes
You can try getting threaded pipe and using a nut and washer to lock down the pipe to the bottom of the casting where the lower arrow is in the picture above. You'll want a heavy stop collar on top, or even a tight fitting tube that fits all the way up to the tailstock casting so you can crank it down. The accessory lock should be just adding a little extra lateral stiffness at that point.
You could try finding plumbing pipe to replace the steel tubes, it may not be easy to match the diameter though. You'd probably need a machinist if you want to thread the original tubes, a threading machine made for iron pipe may not be able to to the job on the harder steel. Another approach would be to use threaded rod instead of the tubes, the tailstock casting can be tapped for threads, but you'd still need a machinist to do it to get the threading straight.
Perhaps there is some sort of exterior threaded sleeve which could be slipped over the bottom of the tube, locked in place with a crossbolt or setscrew in a dimple, and then a nut tightened up against the bottom of the casting.
You could try finding plumbing pipe to replace the steel tubes, it may not be easy to match the diameter though. You'd probably need a machinist if you want to thread the original tubes, a threading machine made for iron pipe may not be able to to the job on the harder steel. Another approach would be to use threaded rod instead of the tubes, the tailstock casting can be tapped for threads, but you'd still need a machinist to do it to get the threading straight.
Perhaps there is some sort of exterior threaded sleeve which could be slipped over the bottom of the tube, locked in place with a crossbolt or setscrew in a dimple, and then a nut tightened up against the bottom of the casting.
Ed from Rhode Island
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- chapmanruss
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Re: Changing extension table tubes
edma194 suggested,
Instead of trying to find longer replacement tubes from another source I would use the tubes from an extension table bracket as you indicated before. You may be able to find a used set somewhere for less than new replacements.You could try finding plumbing pipe to replace the steel tubes,
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Re: Changing extension table tubes
Old-school straight tube bandsaw mounting tubes are an option. IIRC they are around 7-1/2" long. Many people that have those have moved away from them, so some members might have a set laying around gathering dust.
I'm going to try some experimentation on the same issue at some point. I envision using tubes with thicker walls. Most likely I will use main table tubes or newer style lathe tool rest tubes, both of which have about 50% more wall thickness.
Please let us know how well the heat gun approach works out as well as how much improvement you get.
- David
I'm going to try some experimentation on the same issue at some point. I envision using tubes with thicker walls. Most likely I will use main table tubes or newer style lathe tool rest tubes, both of which have about 50% more wall thickness.
Please let us know how well the heat gun approach works out as well as how much improvement you get.
- David