Mark 5 / 500 permanent Leg Removal

[Thomschuck]

Shopsmith Folks!
If some of you recall I am a wheelchair woodworker. I am losing what legs I have left quickly.
Do you know if there are any Shopsmith dudes that have removed the factory legs off a Mark 5? I can see how it would work but what about tilting it up into drillpress mode? I am worried about the geometry of the lift up. I don’t think I can build a base at this point. I was thinking of turning to my pals at Kreg Tool. They make some solid benches in all sizes. I would put one stand at each end making sure the footprint is the same width plus factor in the spread of the legs from left to right. Sitting in my chair my legs are right against the bottom ways.
I need to get my machine down lower. I have been preparing to start turning. This will allow me to stay sitting in my powerchair. I have not turned a stick one since college. My chisels are sharp & I bought a low speed grinder then set it up with Wolverine Grinding Jig.
No whining here. I Just need solid advice...
Thom Schuck
Portland, Oregon

[Chad]

I can't see a major problem with lowering your Shopsmith, Thom. An issue you might run into is if you use the table saw operation. If you need to tilt the table for a angled crosscut or compound miter cut. You will be limited to the length of your work piece from hitting the floor with the opposite end of the board from the end in which want to make to cut on. This is an issue with any Shopsmith, but more so if your Mark V is at less than standard height.

The same would apply when tilting the table on a Shopsmith bandsaw, and possibly if you had an odd operation when using the drill press or horizontal boring with the table tilted. Aside from all of that; If you plan on using your Mark V primarily for lathe turning, then it wouldn't be a problem at all. Turning is my passion (and my day job).

There would not be any problem with physically tilting the Mark V into drill press position with shorter legs on your machine. It would be no different than a Shopsmith 10E or 10ER (if you are familiar with those models) that has a custom base under the machine.

I say go for it!

10ER with factory legs:

mvc-005s.jpg (28.39 KiB) Viewed 2817 times

10ER with custom base in drill press mode:

download (2).jpg (10.67 KiB) Viewed 2817 times

[chapmanruss]

Hi Thom,

You were thinking about a shorter height bench in the following statement.

I was thinking of turning to my pals at Kreg Tool. They make some solid benches in all sizes. I would put one stand at each end making sure the footprint is the same width plus factor in the spread of the legs from left to right.

I understand your need for getting it shorter but two individual stands, one at each end would present a problem. They should be connected to each other and that could be done at the rear of the stands. Without the stands being connected the only thing keeping it all together is the way tube tie bar clamped to the headrest.

[edma194]

If the castings are attached to a pair of stands of the proper height at either end with some small angle brackets then you should have the same kind of rigidity provided by the standard legs.

[Chad]

I understand your need for getting it shorter but two individual stands, one at each end would present a problem. They should be connected to each other and that could be done at the rear of the stands. Without the stands being connected the only thing keeping it all together is the way tube tie bar clamped to the headrest.

Huh? The bench tubes would be connecting the two individual stands, even with the machine raised into drill press mode; just as they "connect" the stock sheet metal legs. Why wouldn't the bench tubes be enough?

Thom has a Mark V model 500, NOT a 10E or 10ER. I only mentioned the model 10's as an example of people building their own stands for those models.

[Chad]

If the castings are attached to a pair of stands of the proper height at either end with some small angle brackets then you should have the same kind of rigidity provided by the standard legs.

Or, blocks of wood. Mount the blocks to the tops of the stands so that the castings will sit over the tops of the blocks. Then simply attach the castings to the sides of the blocks; just as the sheet metal legs attach to the castings. But yes, Edma194, steel would be the best material for the mounting brackets. 1/4" thick angle plates; through bolted grade 8 bolts and Stover lock nuts.

[cham-ed]

there was a 1960s article on how to turn a standard unit into a VII copycat. i think it was popular mechanics. I bet someone know where to find it. you could make it in a different height. Might be an idea?

[chapmanruss]

You're right guys. Sorry Thom, I was thinking Model 10 for some reason and I know you have a Mark V. Maybe Chad's picture led me astray or I was thinking too much about heading out of town Saturday afternoon.

[rpd]

The man featured in this video mounted his Mark V on a bench so he could turn while sitting down.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0MJS9jMFOA[/youtube]

[Thomschuck]

Thanks for the replies on pulling the legs off my Mark 5. I get what Russ presented. YES I would tie the back of each stand together in the back. It would be one solid unit connect leaving the front open so I can get my chair under the machine. The folks at Kreg Tool are excellent. They will work with me providing two custom rails to bolt everything together. I have a couple of things to finish up then I will be putting my Mark 5 to bed for the winter. I love these machines. My body just plays out on me. I am all set to become a world class wood turner. Thank You !
Play HARD in the summer, heal slowly thru the winter...
LIVE BIG!
TS