Another 10ER Restoration

[JNewton]

Ok, well shoot. I’ll hold the phone the other way.

[JNewton]

Also, dumb question, but how is the tailstock held onto the way tubes? I can't for the life of me specifically remember taking it off, and I don't see any setscrews on it. You can see in my latest picture that I have it incorrectly installed on the wrong side of the base.

[rpd]

Also, dumb question, but how is the tailstock held onto the way tubes? I can't for the life of me specifically remember taking it off, and I don't see any setscrews on it. You can see in my latest picture that I have it incorrectly installed on the wrong side of the base.

The tailstock mounts on the outside end of the way tubes, and there is either a knob (earlier extension table with the shorter bracket), or a bolt (round head, hex socket) similar to the one that holds on the upper belt guard (later extension table with the longer bracket)

tailstock.jpg (294.38 KiB) Viewed 1315 times

When you are re assembling, before the headstock is on, put the way tubes in vertical mode and adjust them so the ends rest on the pads on the base and they are perpendicular to the bench.

[JPG]

Try rotating the phone 180° (left becomes right and vice versa). Then MAYBE pix will display as intended and yer feet will be on the bottom.

[JNewton]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I’ll be hitting Menards today and picking up paint and some bolts to replace what’s missing. Won’t be oem, but should get me going. Long term I want to either get the correct parts off the big happy online store of goodness (EBay), or if I get the lathe function working make one of my first project turning some nice wooden handles (glued in threaded rod) to make some. I’m still undecided on paint. I’m about halfway through mickd’s restoration thread, and am now thoroughly overwhelmed with the choice. I think I’ll just browse the rattle can aisle and wait for inspiration to strike. I’m thinking I’ll go with something two tone, perhaps the dark copper and grey hammered colors. I like the “Goldie” look, but not sure I want quite that much.....gold. We shall see.

[JPG]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I’ll be hitting Menards today and picking up paint and some bolts to replace what’s missing. Won’t be oem, but should get me going. Long term I want to either get the correct parts off the big happy online store of goodness (EBay), or if I get the lathe function working make one of my first project turning some nice wooden handles (glued in threaded rod) to make some. I’m still undecided on paint. I’m about halfway through mickd’s restoration thread, and am now thoroughly overwhelmed with the choice. I think I’ll just browse the rattle can aisle and wait for inspiration to strike. I’m thinking I’ll go with something two tone, perhaps the dark copper and grey hammered colors. I like the “Goldie” look, but not sure I want quite that much.....gold. We shall see.

So consider the 'oatmeal'(brownie) look.

[chapmanruss]

It looks like you are well on your way. The Sanding Disk for your 10ER should look just like the one with the Mark 5 Goldie I posted the picture of. The only difference is the one for the Model 10's has a 3/8" set screw instead of the 5/16" set screw used for Mark 5 accessories attached to the spindle. Accessories that attach to the spindle of the Model 10's used either 1/4" or 3/8" set screws. Those were changed to 5/16" set screws with the introduction of the Mark 5 thereby needing only one tool for changeovers. Your 10ER should have the same bolt (P/N B 2337 Knurled Socket Screw) that Ron showed in his picture to hold the tailstock on. As for hardware most everything that stays together is held together with 3/8" set screws most of which are 1/2" long. There are some other size set screws used also. Below is a PDF listing all the set screws used for the Model 10's and their accessories.

10E-ER Set Screws.pdf

(121.73 KiB) Downloaded 175 times

The set screw substitutions I list are for set screws that protrude above the surface of the hole and the shorter ones recommended put them below the surface. Although not original, substituting flat end instead of the standard cup end set screws for accessories that attach to the Quill's Spindle would be desirable to avoid cup indents on the spindle. The Knurled Socket Screw P/N B 2337 for the tailstock and the Knurled Socket Screw P/N A 2333 to hold on the Belt Cover are not on the list above.

The Table Riser is a standard item that originally came with your 10ER. It is useful for adjusting the depth of cut for dados and other non-through cuts made on the table saw. Much easier than trying to lift the table to the correct height while locking the knobs. It did not come on the early Model 10E's. Although pictures I have posted of it do not show a Table Riser, it is something I added to my Model 10E S/N 1077 when I restored it for the reason I stated above.

[JNewton]

So, I return laden with treasure from Menards. I bought some saw blades as well as buffer and drum sanding kits, along with paint and some bolts to substitute for my missing locking knobs.
Before proceeding further on the restoration I just needed to test the beast out a bit. It does, indeed, cut wood. Better than I expected, given the reports of the low power of the 1/2 horse motor. But, the blade was new and expectations were low. It just ripped a 2x4 like no one’s business, so I’m happy. Now I’ve got to clean up that sawdust before it gets all over while I’m trying to paint!

Also, here are the colors I’ve decided to go with. I’m thinking the black for the head and bronze/brown for the periferals, with some black highlights elsewhere. “Custom” but workmanlike is my goal. Nice thing with paint is I can always take another shot at it if dismayed by the outcome.

[JNewton]

Thank you for all the responses; my brain is tired from all the information and good will here.

[JNewton]

A test round of paint. Yes, the photos are right side up!