WHERE to drill the holes?

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:22 pm

Hi guys,

Remember back to your shop class in HS?

I think these might refresh your memories.

[ATTACH]2987[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2988[/ATTACH]

For the three across use the scale at 12" edge to edge, then mark at 3", 6" and 9".

For the 4 the other way use the scale at 15" and mark at 3", 6", 9" and 12".

BINGO!

Sometimes there is a time for math and sometime use one of those tricks from your youth.

Ed

RonnyL · Post by **RonnyL** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:23 pm

Hey Dusty,

Thanks for the heads up. I will go download that Sketchup program right now. Maybe an old dog can still learn a new trick.

iclark · Post by **iclark** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:46 pm

FWIW, the pounding benches that I remember from my youth had dadoed end blocks.

if you are going to dado the end blocks, don't forget to subtract twice the depth of the dado from the length of the available board when you do the layout.

making the gap between the end blocks and the closest pegs a little bigger than the peg-to-peg spacing is not a bad thing. that makes it easier to hit the pegs without hitting the end block.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:07 am

reible wrote:Hi guys,

Remember back to your shop class in HS?

I think these might refresh your memories.

[ATTACH]2987[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2988[/ATTACH]

For the three across use the scale at 12" edge to edge, then mark at 3", 6" and 9".

For the 4 the other way use the scale at 15" and mark at 3", 6", 9" and 12".

BINGO!

Sometimes there is a time for math and sometime use one of those tricks from your youth.

Ed

That is a pretty cool trick, Ed! My shop teachers never gave me that one. We always had to do the math.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:47 am

a1gutterman wrote:That is a pretty cool trick, Ed! My shop teachers never gave me that one. We always had to do the math.

Tim Too bad it won't work for gutters!!:rolleyes:

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:51 am

jpg40504 wrote:Tim Too bad it won't work for gutters!!:rolleyes:

Yes, oh well. I do know one or two tricks about them though. Compound corners are knot the same on a gutter, as they are with wood!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:54 am

a1gutterman wrote:Yes, oh well. I do know one or two tricks about them though. Compound corners are knot the same on a gutter, as they are with wood!

The material is Soooo thin, how can it be a 'compound' mitre???:p

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:29 am

iclark wrote:FWIW, the pounding benches that I remember from my youth had dadoed end blocks.

if you are going to dado the end blocks, don't forget to subtract twice the depth of the dado from the length of the available board when you do the layout.

Good catch there iclark!!:D He will be needing that extra space.

perryobear · Post by **perryobear** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:27 am

Hi everyone,

For anyone following this thread and searching their memories about what a Pounding Bench is all about, here is a link to the Shopsmith plan. It also contains some ideas on the other essential item; The mallet!

This is another timeless toy, Beeg I'm sure that your granddaughter will love it!

http://www.freekidsbenchplans.com/

Regards to all,

Dennis

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:36 am

iclark wrote:if you are going to dado the end blocks, don't forget to subtract twice the depth of the dado from the length of the available board when you do the layout.

Thanks for the reminder, but THIS TIME I did remember to subtract the dado depth. The board is actually .75 inches longer than stated.

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