New Shopsmith DC-6000 Dust Collector

[JPG]

I am curious how the rear mounting screw holes align if the motor housing is indeed shifted towards the inlet(thus creating the larger gap at the rear).

[dusty]

I am curious how the rear mounting screw holes align if the motor housing is indeed shifted towards the inlet(thus creating the larger gap at the rear).

The motor housing is NOT SHIFTED. The bottom edge of the motor housing is right where it belongs. It is tilted thus creating the gap.

Input end dropped down in cradle thus aligning the input port and creating the gap.

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Input end is lifted this mis-aligning the input port and closing the gap

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[dusty]

Focusing on the input end.

Gap is closed but input port is mis-aligned.

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Don't be mislead by the parallax in this image.

Input port resting in cradle and properly aligned to manifold but this causes the gap.

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The black ring is the edge of the 4" coupler located between the Main Housing of the DC and the input end of the Fan Housing.

[dusty]

Another small change I made.

I changed the wire clamp to protect the wires from the motor fan blades.

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This wire clip just did not secure the wires to my liking. Fan blades and wires don't mix.

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[JPG]

All this implies the motor shaft in the DC-6000 is 'higher' above the bottom of the motor housing than the DC 3300?

Is the motor mounted to the bottom of the motor housing or is it mounted to the 'front' of the motor housing.?

If so it would appear the fan housing/blade needs to be lower on the motor housing?


I am beginning to think all this ALMOST fits correctly. There is NO simple solution other than the bigger seal.

Looking at the next to last pix, it appears the fan housing inlet is too high by about 1/2". It also appears the fan center is about correct(1/2" below the center of the inlet. This would mean the fan housing is 1/2" too high relative to the motor/motor housing. Maybe camera angle though???

[DLB]

Those of you who still have both sets of parts can verify the different heights(or verify they are the same) of the motor shaft above the bottom of the motor housing. PLEASE!

Mine are both disassembled, but setting the parts in place with the holes lined up I measure both motor centers at 3-11/16 to 3-3/4 above the bottom of the motor housing. (Note - there is some left/right deviation between the two.) I measured both with the motor shaft vertical, not the 'correct' position. But there is not much room inside the housing that either could move much. And I'm not understanding what led to this question or line of thinking.(?) I'm thinking the parallax in some of the pics is throwing perspective off.

- David

[dusty]

Mine is assembled. To determine if the axis was true I took some measurements. One from the top edge of the main housing to the axis of the fan blade. The other from the top edge of the main casting (on the other side) to the axis of the intake (the manifold removed). The difference appears to be about 3/8" with the intake lower.

If the intake was up from where it is "the gap" would become reasonable in size (the same thickness all the way around the manifold opening).

Given the state of affairs - we live with that. There is no feasible way to correct it. Fill the gap (with something or live with the leak) and move on.

As a fokk0w on to this venture, I took some measurements on the Motor and Fan Housing from the DC-3300. There too the two openings are not concentric. One is offset from the other by about the same amount. In the DC-3300 application, the housing itself makes the compensation. for the offset. With the DC6000, the two openings are inline.

[DLB]

'Borrowing' Dusty's earlier picture, the seam outlined in red is where I believe the overwhelming majority of the dust leak on mine is coming from. (When all seals are in place and in reasonable condition.) While mine is damaged, I'm skeptical that any of these seal at the union of the motor and fan housings. There are numerous places I can see daylight through the gap, it is not limited to the damaged area. Unless there is a seal that mine is missing. This leak is also what I currently see as the only viable source of cooling for the motor, so I'm not endorsing sealing it at this time.

Dusty's DC6000(2).jpg (267.5 KiB) Viewed 796 times

- David

[RFGuy]

David,

I understand your reasoning, but for argument's sake here let's say you sealed the area marked in red (see pic above). I would recommend aluminum foil duct sealing tape (HVAC sealing tape, NOT common duct tape off the shelf). This would fully seal the motor area so that only outside air can enter the motor compartment. So, on the back of the motor is a cooling fan, right (see pic below)? Or is that just some large heatsink on the back of the motor that doesn't spin? IF it is a cooling fan it should blow hot air out the back of the DC-3300 vent holes where the motor exhaust is. Of course, it would have to pull in replacement air on the outside edges, but doesn't that cooling fan blow air out? I would think this should be sufficient for cooling unless you are running your DC-3300 for hours on end. It isn't the most efficient cooling method (not having an inlet on the other side), but it should help to prevent a build-up of heat around the motor, I would think.

cooling_fan.jpg (66.68 KiB) Viewed 795 times

[DLB]

David,

I understand your reasoning, but for argument's sake here let's say you sealed the area marked in red (see pic above). I would recommend aluminum foil duct sealing tape (HVAC sealing tape, NOT common duct tape off the shelf). This would fully seal the motor area so that only outside air can enter the motor compartment. So, on the back of the motor is a cooling fan, right (see pic below)? Or is that just some large heatsink on the back of the motor that doesn't spin? IF it is a cooling fan it should blow hot air out the back of the DC-3300 vent holes where the motor exhaust is. Of course, it would have to pull in replacement air on the outside edges, but doesn't that cooling fan blow air out? I would think this should be sufficient for cooling unless you are running your DC-3300 for hours on end. It isn't the most efficient cooling method (not having an inlet on the other side), but it should help to prevent a build-up of heat around the motor, I would think.

Yes, it is a plastic cooling fan and blows warm dusty air out the back through the grate. But where is that air coming from? Mine is only a subjective opinion. But the fan is recessed in the housing. And the grate is considerably smaller than the opening in that pic. So I seriously doubt that the fan is moving an appreciable amount of cooling air over the length of the motor case. I'm not a fluid dynamics guy, but I see no way that this fan is pulling shop air through that grate, routing it back along the outside perimeter of the housing, and then back along the motor case and out the front through the same grate with no ducts. What I see when I look at this more oven like. I suspect the fan and motor case are designed for cooling in free air, preferably mounted vertically with the fan at the top.

I know a lot more about the leak now than I did when I duct-taped this. The tape was quick and dirty to help me definitively determine between a couple of possible/probable sources, and it was already in stock. It was also enough to satisfy me that this thing has serious cooling challenges. I don't think I had it fully sealed, at the time I had no intent to fully seal it unless/until I get a new motor housing.

- David