broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
Retaining clip the same as on the back end.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
Much appreciated, DLB, but yes, I had already removed the spirolox style retaining ring. It's because of the casting that I chose the slide hammer. I was prying with a prybar a little on a chuck with I had installed on the shaft, but didn't want to put too much into it for fear of cracking the casting. Is there another retainer internal, or just the one on the backside?
I don't recall having any issue getting it out when I did the full teardown earlier. I am pretty thorough with lubricating surfaces like bearings when installing, so it shouldn't be too bad. I'd a little surprised it's sticking, but then it must have gotten pretty hot there when it failed, so no telling....
I could have used a slide hammer before on other jobs, so this was as much an excuse to finally justify the purchase as anything. Hopefully it'll do the job perfectly.
I don't recall having any issue getting it out when I did the full teardown earlier. I am pretty thorough with lubricating surfaces like bearings when installing, so it shouldn't be too bad. I'd a little surprised it's sticking, but then it must have gotten pretty hot there when it failed, so no telling....
I could have used a slide hammer before on other jobs, so this was as much an excuse to finally justify the purchase as anything. Hopefully it'll do the job perfectly.
'54 greenie
- chapmanruss
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Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
The only retainers are the ones on either end.
Since it got hot it may have "cooked" the lubrication you used between the bearings and Headstock casting and is now causing it to stick. Maybe some penetrating oil could "free" it up as opposed to the sliding hammer being used. If you use the sliding hammer do be very careful and protect the Drive Sleeve Assembly end being impacted to avoid damage to the opening. If you "mushroom" it from impacts the spline end of the Quill Assembly may not go in freely. If your Drive Sleeve Assembly has the plastic sleeve as shown in the second picture in my first post of the Gilmer Clutch Type Drive Sleeve remove it first. I am sure you already thought of that, but I find reminders helpful when focused on a task.
Since it got hot it may have "cooked" the lubrication you used between the bearings and Headstock casting and is now causing it to stick. Maybe some penetrating oil could "free" it up as opposed to the sliding hammer being used. If you use the sliding hammer do be very careful and protect the Drive Sleeve Assembly end being impacted to avoid damage to the opening. If you "mushroom" it from impacts the spline end of the Quill Assembly may not go in freely. If your Drive Sleeve Assembly has the plastic sleeve as shown in the second picture in my first post of the Gilmer Clutch Type Drive Sleeve remove it first. I am sure you already thought of that, but I find reminders helpful when focused on a task.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
Maybe try to pull on the spindle end by attaching a coupler or some accessory. That way you can keep the quill in and that will keep the drive shaft assembly aligned with the opening.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
I've attached the drill chuck and was planning on pulling on that. Perhaps I'll use another attachment, such as a saw arbor. Yes, that's a better idea. Definitely was going to pull only on something attached to the shaft. Penetrant soaking is a good idea too.
The slide hammer is to be used to pull it out, not push it out. Seems low risk to me.
The slide hammer is to be used to pull it out, not push it out. Seems low risk to me.
'54 greenie
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
You DID loosen the set screw on top of the unit? The one covered in putty.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
The one that limits the quill travel? If so, yes, I did.
'54 greenie
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
Slide hammer pulled the sleeve out very well. I was unhappy to see that neither bearing on the drive sleeve was obviously bad. Same with the quill bearing. I'll stick with the thought that at least one of the two got hot and started binding.
The drive bearings measure 2.045" OD, 0.985" ID & 0.59" Width.
The drive bearings measure 2.045" OD, 0.985" ID & 0.59" Width.
'54 greenie
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
25x52x15mm= 0.9843"x2.047"x0.591"
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: broken drive belt, quill bearing semi-siezed
That's the one. Surprising to see metric dims on an old American (I presume) machine.
'54 greenie