Horizontal Table Wobble

[RFGuy]

I have to agree with RFGuy, you would be better off replacing the part. The part is the complete assembly with tie bar and legs: https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/ite ... tem=514344

$236 is steep, maybe you can find a used part on eBay for less: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125323787109?h ... SwkqFihqVZ

It is supposed to be the same part for a Mark 7 so would that come from Shopsmith with the double rack legs?

Thanks Ed. Yeah, I am primarily concerned with a kickback in this scenario. IF the OP can shim it to reduce the table wobble, it would still be a potential kickback scenario. It may not take much of a table shift to cause this. Depending on how close the fence is to being parallel with the blade, only a few thou or less of table movement may be all that is required to cause a kickback. In fact, the wobble (after shim) might be imperceptible to the naked eye (giving the illusion of safety). Yes, $236 isn't cheap for this replacement, but could be well worth it to prevent a kickback. Without a replacement, I would be very careful to set the table/fence alignment such that there is always a sizeable gap at the back of the sawblade relative to the fence to mitigate any kickback risk...

[dusty]

I do disagree. I contend that If the table legs can be shimmed and pinned into the tie bar with the table legs also inserted into the carriage and locked there would be slim likelihood of this causing a problem (let alone a kickback. Yes, proper table alignment would be an absolute necessity.

Wobble is the issue. Eliminating the wobble without creating other problems (alignment) is the solution.

[edma194]

I can see that table shifting some day in any mode. It might be dangerous or it might only ruin the piece you're working on. Getting it all aligned will be tricky enough and then it has to be locked in place with pins or screws.

OTOH if it was sitting in front of me and I could see it and feel it maybe a fix would look reasonable. If the leg can be held in position against some portion of the hole wall that is properly formed then it could be shimmed very tight, and possibly gaps filled too, then held in place with appropriate fasteners.

ETA: Now seeing dusty's post I guess it is up to keonep to use his own judgement and determine if can implement a safe and reliable fix. Certainly makes sense to try before spending the money.

[dusty]

I can see that table shifting some day in any mode. It might be dangerous or it might only ruin the piece you're working on. Getting it all aligned will be tricky enough and then it has to be locked in place with pins or screws.

OTOH if it was sitting in front of me and I could see it and feel it maybe a fix would look reasonable. If the leg can be held in position against some portion of the hole wall that is properly formed then it could be shimmed very tight, and possibly gaps filled too, then held in place with appropriate fasteners.

ETA: Now seeing dusty's post I guess it is up to keonep to use his own judgement and determine if can implement a safe and reliable fix. Certainly makes sense to try before spending the money.

What we do not know (where the OPs posts) is whether or not the table legs wobble in the carriage OR do they wobble in the tie bar. From the discussion, I suspect that they wobble in the tiebar.

If the wobble originates in the tie bar the probable causes are 1) tapered cross-pins are deformed, 2) the holes in the tie bar (fro the cross pins are elongated, or 3) the holes on the table lags are elongated. If any of these are the cause it(they) could be addressed by purchasing larger cross pins and redrilling the holes to fit. Shimming, in my opinion, would be equally acceptable.

The Double Tilt Manual DOES NOT provide the needed part numbers. The parts are contained in Hardware Bag, 522838.

https://www.shopsmith.com/mediawiki/ind ... ouble_Tilt

[keonep]

I'm still trying to diagnose the wobble, it seem that there is some movement between the posts and carriage as well as a little at the tie bar. This is only the front, there's no wobble in the rear. I haven't had a chance to remove the carriage but will hopefully do so over the weekend.

[dusty]

I'm still trying to diagnose the wobble, it seem that there is some movement between the posts and carriage as well as a little at the tie bar. This is only the front, there's no wobble in the rear. I haven't had a chance to remove the carriage but will hopefully do so over the weekend.

Two entirely different problems!

I suggest that you deal with the wobble that apparently occurs with the table legs where they attach to the tie bar (disregard movement at the carriage).

Be aware though that if you shim the table leg(s) into the tie bar that the legs must remain parallel to one another and in the same plane. This is where I would rely on the carriage to establish separation. When all done, the carriage must move up and down smoothly on the table lags.

[RFGuy]

I can see that table shifting some day in any mode. It might be dangerous or it might only ruin the piece you're working on. Getting it all aligned will be tricky enough and then it has to be locked in place with pins or screws.

OTOH if it was sitting in front of me and I could see it and feel it maybe a fix would look reasonable. If the leg can be held in position against some portion of the hole wall that is properly formed then it could be shimmed very tight, and possibly gaps filled too, then held in place with appropriate fasteners.

ETA: Now seeing dusty's post I guess it is up to keonep to use his own judgement and determine if can implement a safe and reliable fix. Certainly makes sense to try before spending the money.

Exactly...I just wanted to point out the risk. Should it slip one day while in the middle of a tablesaw operation that would be problematic. Again, I am all for trying to fix anything, but some things aren't worth the hassle if you can't get a robust remedy. Bottomline is one's health & safety is always the most important consideration.

[dusty]

keonep

Just curious. Did you drive the tapered pin out? Have you pulled the table leg all the way out?

If it is out - consider posting pictures of the holes and the pin.

I have a table from which I can remove the legs and rotate them (double tilt like) with out hammering the pins. I have pins (not tapered)
designed to be installed and removed. Those might work for you.

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Not visible in these images is a pull ring on each of the pins.

[keonep]

keonep

Just curious. Did you drive the tapered pin out? Have you pulled the table leg all the way out?

If it is out - consider posting pictures of the holes and the pin.

I have a table from which I can remove the legs and rotate them (double tilt like) with out hammering the pins. I have pins (not tapered)
designed to be installed and removed. Those might work for you.

20220524_132121.jpg20220524_132102.jpg20220524_132042.jpg

Not visible in these images is a pull ring on each of the pins.

Hi, yes I pulled the pins out and pulled the table leg all the way out. I have it back together right now with a metal shim installed to reduce the movement. I'm going to try and take apart the carriage this weekend to see if I can further reduce any wobble. If I take apart the table legs, I will take a picture.

[dusty]

Let me suggest that before you take anything apart complete a normal main table alignment (parallelism to the miter track).

After that is done, position the main table and headstock so that the left side of the table is at the same height as the spindle. Now move the table left/right (the wobble) and get a good measurement. Table touching spindle when pushed to the left -- and then the size of the gap when the table is pushed to the right. Make sure everything is locked tight (especially the carriage and table tilt).

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