Mark VII Repair questions

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JPG
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by JPG »

Last question: 4 fer starters. Adjust to increase/decrease tension. That is done as thee reinstalls the quill assembly back into the headstock. You want reliable full retraction with minimal tension to overcome to extend.

The desired positioning of the spring at rest is to be a slight interference with the shaft so the spring will rub against the shaft.

The desired curvature of the end of the spring is so it closely matches the od of the shaft. This allows the pin to easily slip into the keyhole as it encounters the slot. You want the spring to be riding on the top of the pin as the shaft rotates towards the hole.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
MichiganTom
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by MichiganTom »

JPG wrote: Wed Feb 08, 2023 10:33 pm Last question: 4 fer starters. Adjust to increase/decrease tension. That is done as thee reinstalls the quill assembly back into the headstock. You want reliable full retraction with minimal tension to overcome to extend.

The desired positioning of the spring at rest is to be a slight interference with the shaft so the spring will rub against the shaft.

The desired curvature of the end of the spring is so it closely matches the od of the shaft. This allows the pin to easily slip into the keyhole as it encounters the slot. You want the spring to be riding on the top of the pin as the shaft rotates towards the hole.
Thanks JPG!!! Hopefully wrap this up tomorrow.
MichiganTom
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by MichiganTom »

Success!!

I was able to get the spring curved into the shaft, not quite able to pop on by itself, Axeil mis alignment, but a slight move with a pick and one it went. I could only get about 4 turns total and the spring would bottom out, so I backed it off a bit, about 3ish turns. The quill returns well but not bashing well, I believe about right.

Oh a note, don't drop the cone washer in the unit, it's likes to dissappear, trust me.

Thanks again for all your assistance,

Tom
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JPG
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by JPG »

Domed washer????
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
MichiganTom
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by MichiganTom »

JPG wrote: Fri Feb 10, 2023 6:37 pmDomed washer????
Yes. That little bugger stood on edge on the far end of the motor behind the motor mount.
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JPG
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by JPG »

FWIW: Tis easier to do that upper headstock stuff with the motor out and the headstock upsidedown. ;)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
MichiganTom
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by MichiganTom »

Worked on the bandsaw today, removed and lubed the bronze bushings (all), upper wheel bearing cleaned and greased. Adjusted upper and lower guides (basically wanted to fiddle) checked and reset the alignment of the coupler. Saw is running nice, cut some 2 inch hickory just for the fun of it.

I do need to replace the tires, I was curious if the urethane tires are better or go with the standard ones? Any opinions??
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BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

You need to replace your bandsaw tires why, exactly? I have an older cast-iron table bandsaw, with original rubber tires, and they still work great.

There are lots of posts here about SS orange urethane replacement tire problems. And lots of positive posts about blue aftermarket urethane tires.

The major complaint about SS “original” rubber replacement tires is that they are a PITA to replace without getting “lumps” in the tires. But there seem to be some good/simple techniques out there to avoid that problem. I don’t have the links handy, but if my tires ever need to be replaced, I’m sticking with SS original rubber. Mine have passed the test of time, with flying colors.
MichiganTom
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Re: Mark VII Repair questions

Post by MichiganTom »

BuckeyeDennis wrote: Sun Feb 12, 2023 12:34 am You need to replace your bandsaw tires why, exactly? I have an older cast-iron table bandsaw, with original rubber tires, and they still work great.

There are lots of posts here about SS orange urethane replacement tire problems. And lots of positive posts about blue aftermarket urethane tires.

The major complaint about SS “original” rubber replacement tires is that they are a PITA to replace without getting “lumps” in the tires. But there seem to be some good/simple techniques out there to avoid that problem. I don’t have the links handy, but if my tires ever need to be replaced, I’m sticking with SS original rubber. Mine have passed the test of time, with flying colors.
Thanks for the reply Dennis,

The tires are in pretty bad shape, cracked and very hardened, only a matter of time. I seen that SS has an option on there site for urethane tires, was curious if others here have used them.

Tom
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