Lower Saw Guard & Riving Knife

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colday
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Lower Saw Guard & Riving Knife

Post by colday »

Just bought a 2004 model Mark V 510... Yippie!

Did a complete cleaning & PM as it has been largely neglected for most of its years. Got to the part about setting up the Upper Saw Guard Assy (514336). No matter what, the Riving Knife will NOT line up with the saw blade. It seems as the back side of the Lower Saw Guard Assy (514358) is angled sharply towards the headstock.

This can be best told with pictures...

See: http://gallery.me.com/colday#100006

(Must read up about posting me.com linked photos!)

The item clamped where the riving knife should be (photos 1, 2 & 6) is a metal rule (not bent!). In photos 1 & 2 the saw blade is pulled out from the arbor enough for the rule to contact the leading edge of the blade (as not to bend the rule {no pun intended}).

A bit confusing - but hopefully they make sense to some of you.

Now...

This can't be right, is it?

The budget officer & the LOML has authorized the purchase of a new Lower Guard (as this IS a safety item), but I do not want to spend the $ just to find that it IS me.

Thanks!

Now for a little info...

I've been a Shopsmith fan since my good buddy Wayne bought his back in the 80s. I've had my heart on a new unit, but just could not get the price point past the LOML. She finally agreed on a used one! So, as not to miss the window of oppertunity I jumped on the first good looking unit off Craigslist. Unfortunetly I live in Alaska & not too many end up for sale.

I've been lurking here for the better part of a month - sounds like a great crowd.

I came over from a Ryobi BT3000 that I've had for a decade. I've not done anything that I would be proud of showing, yet. But, I do love making sawdust!

Other loves are photography & computers (old PC guy, converted to the Mac).

I'm a retired Air Force "Combat Photographer" (cinematographer/videographer), now working for a living.

Steve
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dusty
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Lower Sawguard and Riving Knife

Post by dusty »

Welcome to the forum, colday. It is so good to have you with us - and a photographer too. This should result in some fantastic clips. More about that later.

Right now, sawdust has priority.

Do you have another saw blade and arbor, I sure hope so. In the photos you posted, it almost looks like you have a wobble dado blade installed. Make sure that the blade is on the arbor squarely and firmly.

Now to the riving knife...I now assume a standard arbor and properly installed blade...have you adjusted the riving knife at all. You cannot see or adjust the alignment screw with the saw guard installed. It is neatly tucked away out of sight when the saw guard is mounted. Pull off the lower saw guard and look at it from the position of the headstock. You will see an adjustment screw. This screw moves the riving knife laterally for alignment to the blade. Unfortunately, this adjustment cannot be made with the saw guard mounted. It is a hit and miss proposition. Adjust, mount, look, dismount, adjust, mount, look........

if the riving knife is to the left of the blade - back out the set screw (counter clockwise)
if the riving knife is to the right of the blade - screw the set screw in (clockwise)

I need to take a trip to the shop but that will have to be later in the morning. Never fear..the forum.. is here. We'll have this sucker running straight and true...gotta...you need that riving knife!!!!

I took a couple photos while sipping my first cup of coffee. Hopefully these will address your situation.

[ATTACH]3271[/ATTACH]

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Perfect Alignment.jpg
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Riving Knife Alignment Screw.JPG
Riving Knife Alignment Screw.JPG (145.85 KiB) Viewed 19521 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

I've looked at the pictures and I would have to say it looks like the lower guard is bent. I guess like anything else this could happen.

The "A" line should be a plane and on yours it looks like it is bent like the "B" in the photo.

[ATTACH]3273[/ATTACH]

You could attempt to bend it back but I have no idea how well that would work... still might be an option knowing that it will not work the way it is. Perhaps someone has experienced this and can lead the way???

Ed
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web a b.jpg
web a b.jpg (138.86 KiB) Viewed 19493 times
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JPG
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lower blade guard mount???

Post by JPG »

Since I do NOT have a blade guard, I am surprised it is mounted INSIDE the knurled aluminum collar. Does this mean you must remove both the collar AND the lower guard in order to use SS as a NON saw function?? When I purchased my SS the blade guard was an optional extra cost accessory.
BTW Looks bent to me! Think the 'wobble' is caused either by camera angle or the arbor is dangling loosly on the shaft????
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

jpg40504 wrote:Since I do NOT have a blade guard, I am surprised it is mounted INSIDE the knurled aluminum collar. Does this mean you must remove both the collar AND the lower guard in order to use SS as a NON saw function?? When I purchased my SS the blade guard was an optional extra cost accessory.
BTW Looks bent to me! Think the 'wobble' is caused either by camera angle or the arbor is dangling loosly on the shaft????
No, you do not remove the knurled collar. The blade guard goes over it with plenty of clearance. I take the blade and the blade guard off together and I pull the blade inside the lower saw guard and install both at the same time.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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colday
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Post by colday »

Lets see...

Nope, the blade is so new it still has all the writing clearly on it. However, I did think that maybe just maybe the blade was bent. Nope. Also if that were true then the rule should have lined up straight. Also, I did omit that I did try the adjustment screw, but that does not correct the angle.

As this is some sort of cast metal, I find it hard to believe it "bent", but as I said this equipment was very neglected. I can picture it sitting off to the side with something very heavy piled on top, left for year or more.

Just what IS that knurled ring for? Should it be locked?

I'm convinced by the photos posted (thanks) that I will just order another - hope they are not on back order!

Thanks for the many replies.

Time to go make the coffee!

Steve
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riving knife

Post by wgander »

I’m getting confused.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm
The knurled socket head screw (215) mounts the lower blade guard to the Shopsmith output shaft (spindle).
The riving knife assembly is mounted to the lower guard by sliding it between the lock plate and lower guard, then tightening the guard lock knob (210).
The stop screw (211) is used to align the riving knife.
When I had this problem, I found the first thing to verify is that the riving knife was properly seated and tightened in position. The next things to check are that the spindle is clean and that the lower blade guard is porperly seated and fastened. The last thing to check is centering the knife by using the stop screw.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

BEFORE you order a new one, ask the techs about it. They may be able to help ya fix the problem or help ya order a new one.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

colday wrote:Lets see...

Nope, the blade is so new it still has all the writing clearly on it. However, I did think that maybe just maybe the blade was bent. Nope. Also if that were true then the rule should have lined up straight. Also, I did omit that I did try the adjustment screw, but that does not correct the angle.

As this is some sort of cast metal, I find it hard to believe it "bent", but as I said this equipment was very neglected. I can picture it sitting off to the side with something very heavy piled on top, left for year or more.

Just what IS that knurled ring for? Should it be locked?

I'm convinced by the photos posted (thanks) that I will just order another - hope they are not on back order!

Thanks for the many replies.

Time to go make the coffee!

Steve
Steve, I'm confused now. What are you going to order?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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colday
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Post by colday »

This is confusing!

First - new pics at: http://gallery.me.com/colday#100006
(I will learn to imbed - but got 8 things going on at the moment 7 of which are priorities to the LOML)

The new pics were taken with the garage door opened with as much light as we are going to get on a lightly snowing 9° day. I hope they clear things up a bit.

With the guard pushed tight, the riving knife sits a good 3/8" past the blade at center point - at the top front it is nearly aligned.

With the guard pulled out precariously close to falling off, the center point is aligned - but now the mid sawing point is horribly aligned.

Dusty, I'm looking at ordering the entire lower guard assembly (514358), I've thought of just ordering the guard & pin assembly (521981) - both are in a back order state. A few are available off eBay.

Yes I know about the adjustment screw (211), and yes I've checked & rechecked if the riving knife was askew in the holder.

I've thought many times that it is the riving knife (199) that is bent, I even disassembled it and laid it on the bench!

Steve
(off to work on "that" kitchen wall...)
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