Wow, a lot of postings since mine yesterday. The Owner's Guide you have will be fine with very little changed between when your Model 10ER was made and it was published. The only thing of note would be on page 5 ATTACHING MOTOR SWITCH which describes removing the bottom screw of the Name Plate. This is something that can be done with Version 7 Headstocks ONLY since there is no hole behind the Name Plate for earlier Headstock versions. The PDF below is an addendum I made for the Owner's Guide to use paste wax instead of light oil on the metal parts.
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The 9" Saw Blades were used on early Mark 5 Shopsmith's. As you have discovered the 9" blade is too large in diameter. 8" Saw Blades can be found and with carbide tipped ones they cut very well.
The most common belt used for the Model 10's is a 4L-380 with the most common motor found on them which is an A. O. Smith 1/2 HP Motor. Different motors may have the shaft positioned differently in relationship to the Drive Sleeve Pulley. A 4L-390 Belt is also useful for adding additional speeds as indicated in the chart below.
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A larger motor like the A. O. Smith 3/4HP Motor works better with the 4L-390 Belt.
In looking at the pictures there may be some alignment issues such as the Tie Bar between the ends of the Way Tubes JPG mentioned.
The Cupped Lathe Dead Center is the one that would have come with your Model 10ER originally from the factory and is the same one supplied today with a new Mark 7. New ones have the black oxide coating which began in 1964.
The Drill Chuck mounted on a Moorse Taper is for use in the Tailstock. There is a Moorse Taper Adapter to attach the Shopsmith supplied Drill Chuck to the Tailstock.
The Way Tubes are not stainless steel but are polished steel.
As for rust removal, although the potato method sounds interesting it is very, very slow and there are much better ways. JPG recommend evaporust or electrolysis rust removal. Electrolysis means having the correct items for it. Evaprorust or other chemicals are much easier to use. Evaprorust is quick but costs more and I have also used vinegar which costs less but takes longer about 3 days depending on the amount of rust. Because I have done a lot of Shopsmith restorations I have a PVC Pipe capped on both ends, one fixed the other removable, to de-rust Way (and Bench) Tubes in. Bench Tubes are used on Mark series Shopsmith's.
I have no idea what the two mystery parts that look as if they attach to the spindle are. They are to large for pen turning.
The picture below shows the common Table Raising parts. There were two crank versions and the Arm JPG mentioned is shown too. The arm goes on the front Main Table Post. It is shown in place on page 6 of the Owner's Guide.
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- Table Raising Assembly 142-1X.jpg (148 KiB) Viewed 2088 times
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If you are going to keep the broken Motor Pulley for now, I recommend not using the 2" pulley position. It will wear out the belt much faster.
Near the top of the Maintenance and Repair section is a topic called
Everything E / ER - Technical info, documentation, links which has a lot of great repair and restoration information. In the
Community section is a Topic I started titled
Shopsmith Model 10's What When and Where. It has a lot of information about the Model 10E and 10ER. You can find it at the link below.
viewtopic.php?t=23647
It will be a lot of information to go through, but I believe worth your time.
I've also got a live center that seems to work well, and what I'm calling a spindle drive point that is functional but has surface rust. 
