pro-planer issue

[jsburger]

Well.. I received a new key, but it won't stay in place. Best I can tell, the set screw isn't seating deep enough to lock the key in place. The threads on the pulley do look worn and the set screw only goes in so far.

I'm probably just going to pick up a new pulley and move on, but got to wondering.. I found the mounting clamps in a box of parts that came with my Mark V and the cutter shaft has evidence that it had a hub mounted to it at one point.

Tempted to unbolt it from the stand and give it a go. Other than convenience (or inconvenience) of having to mount/unmount it, are there advantages to Mark V mounted vs stand-alone.

SS made a power stand for the SS mounted planer as it did for all of the SPT's. The way to tell the difference is first the in feed cover of the Pro Planer says "12 Professional Planer". The MK mounted planer just says "12" Planer". The MK mount planer is grey and black. The Pro Planer is all black. The MK mount planer has an aluminum table with a stainless steel skin on top. The Pro Planer has a cast iron table. The MK mount planer has a variable speed cutter (SS head stock) and variable speed feed rate. The Pro planer has a constant speed cutter head and variable speed feed rate. As a result the two planers have slightly different cuts per inch. The MK mount power stand has a 1 1/2HP motor. The Pro Planer stand has a 1 3/4HP motor.

Do any of these differences make a difference? I doubt it and you can't change them any how. If it was me, I would just get a pulley and leave the planer on the stand. That is much more convenient.

[lew]

Thank you! Apparently I have the SS mounted version on a power stand. That would explain why the pro-planer belt didn't fit.

[JPG]

The M5 mount has an aluminum(sheathed in SS) table which is much lighter than the cast iron one on the PP.

The shallow seating set screw is likely the cause of the original issue. Run a tap through the pulley threads. NOTHING should prevent advancing the set screw except bottoming out on the key/shaft.

[GEC]

Reviving this old topic to ask about MV planer pulleys. I have a MV planer on a shopsmith stand (not pro planer). It is powered by a 1 1/2 hp AO Smith 3450 RPM. I have used it lightly but the last use gave a wrong noise that inspection showed was due to the cutter pulley having shifted on the shaft. The shaft appears to be the tapered shaft (5/8"?) similar to that on th e headstock quill output, and the pulley was anchored with 5/32" allen. The pulley seems to have a shim to fit the shaft? or some kind of split bushing? The cutter shaft taper was messed up and I used a file to take of the high points and tried to maintain the tapered flat.

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The motor pulley has a woodruff key slot but was only held by a 5/32" allen that dipped into the slot without a key present. None of this sounds right. Both pulleys are 3.5" giving the cutter head 3450 rpm.

So I need to replace the cutter head pulley. Am I right that any pulley for a 5/8" shaft with a thread for 5/32" will work? (Using blue loctite on that allen screw). The clearance between the set screw on the widest part of the taper and the frame of the stand make access for tightening pretty difficult. Other solutions to firmly attach the cutter pulley to the tapered shaft?
Can I reduce the cutter pulley diameter to improve performance? Any suggestions on how to rectify this and improve on the set up is appreciated.

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[JPG]

First recommendation I would make is get cast iron pulleys. Grainger has some reasonably priced ones. Likely from China. They look good to me.

Over the years I have attempted to use aluminum pulleys even for low load fans with less than acceptable longterm results.

As for changing pulley size to 'improve performance", that job belongs to the motor. Reducing pulley size increases load on motor.

P.S. I would use a cup point set screw with shim in pulley key groove to prevent marring planer shaft .

[chapmanruss]

The pulleys you are likely to find are going to be the key type. Since your Planer is, as you said, originally a Mark Mount Planer converted to a stand like the Pro Planer it was then set up to use a pulley instead of the Power Coupler and Hub on that shaft. After the Pro Planer was introduced the end of the cutterhead shaft changed to have a key on one side and a flat for a Power Coupler Hub on the other side. See picture below. With that both the Mark Mount and Pro Planer used the same Cutterhead assembly.

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There was a change in the pulley sizes for the Pro Planer. The 1992 Pro Planer Manual shows a 3" Pulley on the Cutter Head Shaft and the Motor uses a 5" Pulley. 5,750 RPM is the listed speed for the Cutterhead of the Pro Planer.

[GEC]

Shopsmith no longer carries the 3.5" pulley. I decided to shift the good 3.5" pulley from the motor to the cutterhead. This pulley has a keyway that will not have a key just the set screw onto the flat taper of the shaft, that was the circumstance I found when the cutterhead pulley spun on the shaft. Then I will buy a new 5 inch pulley for the motor. In response to my inquiry, Shopsmith said this change in pulley sizes will improve performance and I inferred that it is not a problem.

Any hints regarding the best way to mount the motor pulley as it does not have an internal threaded hole to press the pulley onto the shaft? I am worried about using a mallet to drive the pulley onto the keyed shaft.

[JPG]

It should be a SLIP fit.

[GEC]

I should think before I post: The pulley guard on my stand will not accept a 5" pulley at the motor end, only at the cutterhead (which doesn't make much sense). So I I either need a different pulley guard or I stick with a 3.5 in pulley on the motor. I have pulley guard kits 513552 but these cannot be attached to the planer stand. Attached is a picture of of my guard.

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[jsburger]

Grainger sells 3.5" pulleys. Just get one from them. There is nothing special about the SS.