Interesting ShopSmith Mod...

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billmayo
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Interesting ShopSmith Mod...

Post by billmayo »

easterngray wrote:Shopsmith offered just such an accessory for $6.95 when they were owned by Magna. The outlet was also equipped with a lockable switch and mounted under the bench tubes. Alec

Image
Shopsmith Lockable Accessory Outlet
I have several of these lockable outlet boxes with keys that came in boxes with Shopsmiths that I brought. I never gave a thought that Shopsmith would offer this type of electrical box. No labels on them. I did not determine how or why anyone would have a use for them. Thanks for the information and picture. Learned something new this time. Where did you locate this picture?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

WHY did he mount the box to BOTH the headstock casting AND the sheet metal belt cover?? Gets in the way to perform service/maintenance duties.
GOOD idea, not so good implementation.
BTW where does NEC permit running sleeved wires through a 'cut slot'(ss medallion) without strain relief?
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easterngray
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Post by easterngray »

Bill check your PM - Alec
1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
8iowa
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Post by 8iowa »

Ed:

I've never taken a switch apart, but if there is only one set of contacts, the high apperage resulting from starting two induction motors simultaneously would shorten the life of the switch.

Regardless, a set-up like this would require you to be on a 20 amp circuit breaker in order to avoid nusance trips.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

8iowa
If you look at the ad the manufacture specifies you must have a four terminal SS switch. I understand some SS were manufactured with switches that only had 2 terminals so they couldn't use this setup. A four terminal switch is basically two switches that are ganged together. SS only uses one so this manufacture uses the other.

As for line amperage since both the SS and the aux has it's own line cord you would need to plug the SS into one circuit and the aux into another. If you did plug both into the same circuit you would probably flip a breaker fairly often because start up current for both the SS and whatever is plugged into the aux circuit would appear at the exact same time.

P.S. I know a common fix for a bad switch is to switch the wires from the terminals on one side of the switch to the other. This effectively gives you a new switch but if you have done this one side of the switch is bad therefore this mod wouldn't work.
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Post by regnar »

Or you could save yourself 10 dollars and keep you SS looking good by purchasing one of these http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?P ... ilyID=5855

P.S. You can find these cheaper than this site!!!!
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Post by tom_k/mo »

regnar wrote:Or you could save yourself 10 dollars and keep you SS looking good by purchasing one of these http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?P ... ilyID=5855

P.S. You can find these cheaper than this site!!!!
Very interesting, just a thought though.... it's rated at 15A, would that be sufficient for the ShopSmith AND the DC?
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

regnar wrote:Or you could save yourself 10 dollars and keep you SS looking good by purchasing one of these http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?P ... ilyID=5855

P.S. You can find these cheaper than this site!!!!

If you read the ad it says you hand tool. If you tried to power the SS and the DC3300 by this you would probably blow a breaker or burn up the control.

This other mod is a great idea since it uses two line cords which can be plugged into two different circuits. The SS line cord powers the SS and aux plug line cord powers whatever is plugged into it. The only connection to the SS is the fact that inventor uses the unused side of the SS switch to switch his plug.
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