Shopsmith Bowl Chisel

[Akela9]

Hi All,

I'm fairly new to turning and have a set of older Shopsmith lathe chisels, labeled with part numbers 555026 through 555030. I'm familiar with using spindle gouges, but am wanting to start turning bowls and understand that you need a bowl gouge for the end grain. Can either the 1" or 3/8" gouge be used as bowl gouges or are they stricly spindle gouges?

In case I'm looking at having to purchase a bowl gouge, what do you recommend?

Thanks!

[RonKlein]

The quick answer is that they are spindle gouges. You might check out Craft Supplies, USA <http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/>. They have a wealth of information, and lots of free videos, too. If you are serious about turning, realize that lathe chisels need frequent sharpening. They have an excellent sharpening setup. Not cheap, but well worth the investment. Lathe turning can be lots of fun. Enjoy!

[Akela9]

Thank you, Ron! That's exactly what I needed to know.
My best,
-Bill

[roy_okc]

Way back in the stone age, the last time I turned a couple bowls, I bought one or maybe two Benjamin's Best tools from Penn State Industries. I chose the lower cost but decent route to make sure it was something I wanted to do. Link below.

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/bowl-gouges.html

[Mike907]

Hi, Bill - you may want to visit the local woodturners club. They will be able to answer your questions and provide training, if you need some. Be careful, woodturning is addictive.

https://charlestownewoodturners.org


Mike

[IdahoEd]

Hi Bill;

You got some good replies to your very important question. I just want to chime in to emphasize that there is a very real safety concern with using the lighter weight spindle gouges as bowl gouges. Thought you might find it interesting to hear how Gemini explains the issue:

"Using a spindle gouge to turn a bowl is one of the more dangerous mistakes a woodturner can make. While they may look similar, their structural differences make them unsuitable for the forces involved in bowl turning. The primary danger stems from how the tools are manufactured and how they handle torque. If you are ever unsure of whether it is a bowl or spindle gouge, check the diameter of the tool's shank. A bowl gouge will be significantly heavier and thicker than a spindle gouge of the same "size."

Spindle Gouges: Most are "milled" from a solid rod but have a narrower tang (the part that goes into the handle). Because spindle turning usually involves smaller workpieces and lighter cuts, this design is sufficient.

Bowl Gouges: These have a deep tang and a much thicker cross-section to handle the forces of the "catches" that may occur when turning a bowl. If a spindle gouge catches on the rim of a bowl, the force might snap the tool at the tang, potentially sending a sharp piece of high-speed steel flying toward you.

Spindle Gouges: Typically have a shallow flute. They are designed to cut with the grain (parallel to the lathe bed).

Bowl Gouges: Have a much deeper flute designed to clear large volumes of chips and handle the end-grain transitions that happen twice every rotation when turning a bowl. Using a shallow spindle gouge on a bowl often leads to severe "chatter" or aggressive catches.

When turning the interior of a bowl, you often have to extend the tool far past the tool rest. A spindle gouge is not rigid enough to handle this overhang. Under the pressure of a bowl’s rotation, the tool can flex, vibrate, and eventually catch or break."

Happy and safe turning!

[cooch366]

Hi Bill;

You got some good replies to your very important question. I just want to chime in to emphasize that there is a very real safety concern with using the lighter weight spindle gouges as bowl gouges. Thought you might find it interesting to hear how Gemini explains the issue:

"Using a spindle gouge to turn a bowl is one of the more dangerous mistakes a woodturner can make. While they may look similar, their structural differences make them unsuitable for the forces involved in bowl turning. The primary danger stems from how the tools are manufactured and how they handle torque. If you are ever unsure of whether it is a bowl or spindle gouge, check the diameter of the tool's shank. A bowl gouge will be significantly heavier and thicker than a spindle gouge of the same "size."

Spindle Gouges: Most are "milled" from a solid rod but have a narrower tang (the part that goes into the handle). Because spindle turning usually involves smaller workpieces and lighter cuts, this design is sufficient.

Bowl Gouges: These have a deep tang and a much thicker cross-section to handle the forces of the "catches" that may occur when turning a bowl. If a spindle gouge catches on the rim of a bowl, the force might snap the tool at the tang, potentially sending a sharp piece of high-speed steel flying toward you.

Spindle Gouges: Typically have a shallow flute. They are designed to cut with the grain (parallel to the lathe bed).

Bowl Gouges: Have a much deeper flute designed to clear large volumes of chips and handle the end-grain transitions that happen twice every rotation when turning a bowl. Using a shallow spindle gouge on a bowl often leads to severe "chatter" or aggressive catches.

When turning the interior of a bowl, you often have to extend the tool far past the tool rest. A spindle gouge is not rigid enough to handle this overhang. Under the pressure of a bowl’s rotation, the tool can flex, vibrate, and eventually catch or break."

Happy and safe turning!

THANKS for posting & sharing this Ed. I’m just starting my venture into segmented bowl turning and really appreciate this information. I was going to start with the standard Shopsmith chisels but now see that I will have to go shopping for some additional (correct) ones. Your info probably saved me from a potential disaster…..

Steve

[pngeezer]

Steve, just wanted to 2nd these M2 high speed steel gouges from Penn State. They're pretty good quality and will get you started on the right track. I still use some of the SS turning tools but they are carbon steel and don't hold an edge very long.

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX230.html

After some experience you can move up to any number of high quality tools, ie: Sorby, Robust Henry Taylor, etc.

Jim

[cooch366]

Steve, just wanted to 2nd these M2 high speed steel gouges from Penn State. They're pretty good quality and will get you started on the right track. I still use some of the SS turning tools but they are carbon steel and don't hold an edge very long.

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX230.html

After some experience you can move up to any number of high quality tools, ie: Sorby, Robust Henry Taylor, etc.

Jim

Thanks for the info Jim. After posting I went shopping and bought these from Rikon. Buy once, cry once. The second photo are the bowl gouges.

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