What does the "Carriage Stop Ring" stop?

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:04 pm

What does the "Carriage Stop Ring" stop? (ref. part 189)

Go ahead.....lay it on me.....just don't be too abusive....but I have to ask because I just realized I don't recall seeing it on my Greenie.

colday · Post by **colday** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:26 pm

On my 510 it stops the table (carriage) up against the headstock in the "correct" position for table saw operations.

It goes on one of the way tubes.

Steve

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:34 pm

mickyd wrote:What does the "Carriage Stop Ring" stop? (ref. part 189)

Go ahead.....lay it on me.....just don't be too abusive....but I have to ask because I just realized I don't recall seeing it on my Greenie.

At least many greenies didn't have them. The "rubber" carriage stop ring stops the carriage...

OK, it stops the carriage in about at the right place to make the tablesaw setup. Many of the older SSs had a setscrew in the center of the carriage between the way tubes. You could adjust the setscrew so that you could tear down the setup and then later go right back to the same headstock / carriage relationship. The trouble with those was that when someone moved the SS to drill press mode with one manly one handed quick lift sometimes it was only after it was full vertical that they discovered that they had not locked the headstock to the way tubes. Between the swearing and the loud uncomfortable sounding crash sound the carriage often ended up with a hunk broken out of it...

Those are common on old used greenies since they are still usually usable. The rubber ring stops the carriage at the way tube and has some cushion to it. I actually like to use one on each upper tube. So far (crossed fingers) I have never dropped one and I always use the two hand lift with one hand out at the left end and the other gripping the way tube right at the right of the headstock so you can stop the headstock slide if you forget to lock it.
There may be more to this story but that is what I found about them.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:36 pm

mickyd wrote:What does the "Carriage Stop Ring" stop? (ref. part 189)

Go ahead.....lay it on me.....just don't be too abusive....but I have to ask because I just realized I don't recall seeing it on my Greenie.

Did you conclude from what Farmer said, you need 1(or 2) of them instead of the accident waiting to happen screw in the carriage.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:53 am

robinson46176 wrote:At least many greenies didn't have them. The "rubber" carriage stop ring stops the carriage...
OK, it stops the carriage in about at the right place to make the tablesaw setup. Many of the older SSs had a setscrew in the center of the carriage between the way tubes. You could adjust the setscrew so that you could tear down the setup and then later go right back to the same headstock / carriage relationship. The trouble with those was that when someone moved the SS to drill press mode with one manly one handed quick lift sometimes it was only after it was full vertical that they discovered that they had not locked the headstock to the way tubes. Between the swearing and the loud uncomfortable sounding crash sound the carriage often ended up with a hunk broken out of it...

I just can't picture what the damage is that your describing.

[ATTACH]3537[/ATTACH]

This is the way my Greenie came. At least the guy saved the piece. I am going to repair it using JB Weld this week. I was told the stuff is real easy to work with, it's sandable, and it's just as good as a weld job. (naturally on small type repairs)

I was hoping that the "Carriage Stop Ring" was as you described to prevent this damage from happening in the future. I would have called it "Headstop Stop Ring" since it stops the headstop, not the carriage (in my case anyway). Thanks for the info. I am going to order a couple this week.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 2:21 am

WHAT did you use to remove the original paint????

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 2:32 am

JPG40504 wrote:WHAT did you use to remove the original paint????

I used the Citrustrip stuff from Lowe's. Smells GREAT and worked great except on everything but the caster pieces......thought that was odd. I had to used regular NASTY paint remover on those.

You can even get the Citrustrip on your skin without it burning. It's weird stuff. Wrinkles the paint real nicely in about 15 minutes but I leave it on 30 then just wipe it off. Rinses (neutralizes) with oderless mineral spirits.

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:12 am

Looks like it did a real nice job. Thanks for the reference.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:26 pm

mickyd wrote:I used the Citrustrip stuff from Lowe's. Smells GREAT and worked great except on everything but the caster pieces......thought that was odd. I had to used regular NASTY paint remover on those.

You can even get the Citrustrip on your skin without it burning. It's weird stuff. Wrinkles the paint real nicely in about 15 minutes but I leave it on 30 then just wipe it off. Rinses (neutralizes) with oderless mineral spirits.

Where pray tell does one get ODORLESS Mineral Spirits? It IS a petroleum distillate after all!

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:07 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Where pray tell does one get ODORLESS Mineral Spirits? It IS a petroleum distillate after all!

Rockler is one source: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17629
but you should be able to pick it up pretty much anywhere.