PTWFE- Chapter 6 - JOINTERS

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:38 pm

Hi,

Not that this is going to help but I checked the other two versions of the PTWFE I have and they don't list the rule about the 1" stock. So it could be this was added with the update to the jointer.

It is also interesting that the 1/32" blade adjustment number is 1/16" on page 121 of the revised edition of the book. The revised edition jointer chapter has 18 pages where as the current version has 12 pages.

It would be interesting to see if the manual gives any other ideas... so maybe a few of you could check that?? It also looks like some of the information is clearly related to which jointer you have.

Chuck looks like the chapter has taken on a life of its own... no fear of it being only a few posts long now.

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 5:18 pm

reible wrote:Hi,

Not that this is going to help but I checked the other two versions of the PTWFE I have and they don't list the rule about the 1" stock. So it could be this was added with the update to the jointer.

It is also interesting that the 1/32" blade adjustment number is 1/16" on page 121 of the revised edition of the book. The revised edition jointer chapter has 18 pages where as the current version has 12 pages.

It would be interesting to see if the manual gives any other ideas... so maybe a few of you could check that?? It also looks like some of the information is clearly related to which jointer you have.

Chuck looks like the chapter has taken on a life of its own... no fear of it being only a few posts long now.

Ed

Suspicions confirmed(for the most part). Me thinks the 1" rule was added since 'someone' noticed that in order to rabbet a board wider than 1" REQUIRES removal of the guard. This was a simple matter with the older model jointers, Not so the current one(requires a tool).

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:54 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Suspicions confirmed(for the most part). Me thinks the 1" rule was added since 'someone' noticed that in order to rabbet a board wider than 1" REQUIRES removal of the guard. This was a simple matter with the older model jointers, Not so the current one(requires a tool).

I think you got it right!

I had not thought it was a bad thing to remove the blade guard when rabbeting. - take a gander at "Figure 6-23" !! On the newer jointers, the entire cutter head would be covered except the portion of the blade doing the cutting. Guess I could still run a finger or two into the blade! Especially if I didn't follow the three inch rule.

We had a discussion about the newer blade/coupler cover earlier. I was one to admit I didn't know what it was for and had not attached it.After this more thorough discussion, I will be sure to attach it.

Farmer's post about the glass and magnets intrigues me. I knew I've saved those big speaker magnets for some use other than a floor sweep!! Got to try that blade setting technique! Thanks, Francis!!:)

I couldn't help but notice the PTWFE has no references to blade setting techniques. There seems to be other things missing also, although can't put my finger on them right now. Ed, reible's suggestion to review our Jointer Manuals sounds like a dandy idea! Might find something worth mentioning here!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:20 pm

robinson46176 wrote:......
*
I was visiting with a woodworking friend this last week and he was talking about how he adjusted his jointer knives. He uses a piece of plate glass (not the cheap wavy float glass) laid on the out feed table and sticking over the cutter head part way. Then he lays a big speaker magnet on top of the glass and the still loosened blade will jump up against the bottom of the glass. I have never tried it but he was quite happy with his results. He does a lot of expensive custom restoration millwork for the state for historic properties and uses a lot of ancient and hand built machinery that would send many of you guys screaming and running from the building
.......

This reminds me of one of my SNAFUs.

When using a magnet to position the planer or jointer blades, make certain that the blade doesn't coming slamming into the magnet. If it does, it just might send you back to the sharpener to get rid of the nick(s).

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:06 pm

I to have the guard, but it was not attached when I got my jointer. (used). In our defense, it clearly says it is to be used when the tool is on a separate stand.
I put it up and forgot all about it until I started thinking about all the exposed blades!! I found it , mounted it and it covers the cutter nicely in the rabbit set up. (as in the previous photos ) If you drop the infeed table to the fullest extent, the cutter will touch the guard as it turns! ( I turned it by hand). When the fence is to the far right, the guard will rub on the nylon drive. I taped a small piece of 1/4 in plywood to the out feed edge of the guard and it raised it enough to clear in either set up. It will require some more permanent attachment, but I think it would work.
( Part # on mine is 516228)
I didn't do as careful a measure job as some of you, but I did put some 1 in stock on the table, and I agree that the feather board guard post makes it to close for comfort. Even as the rabbit is widened and you move away from the post, it still would put wider stock close to that post. I think I learned more about the jointer from this discussion than I ever learned before. ( I wonder what else I've missed

)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:04 am

dlbristol wrote: . . . I think I learned more about the jointer from this discussion than I ever learned before. ( I wonder what else I've missed )

Didn't WE all!;)

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 2:43 am

dusty wrote:This reminds me of one of my SNAFUs...

Be careful with that acronym Dusty!

SNAFU is military talk for Situation Normal, All F***** Up

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 2:45 am

OK just one more tip, I see a lot of people who keep the fence to the back and then edge joint their 1 by stock... what happens is the blades dull in that first 1" or so. Then when you want to do a 4" wide board they wonder why that last bit of the blade doesn't cut as well... mmmmmmmmmmm wonder why.

As long as your guard works for you then move the fence forward or back once in a while and use more the blades cutting edge and go for a more even wear. Not much of a trick but like I said in the old days I hated to have to deal with the blades and doing the setting up and adjusting so this spread the job out at least for a while longer.

OK just one more. A very long time ago I picked up a knife hone for my jointer that you use with the blades still in the jointer. One side has a course grit for small nicks and the other a finer grit to do a light touch up. I think shopsmith use to sell them so I may have purchased it from them or maybe some other mail order place. I was going to pull it out and take a picture but it has hectic week... however I did find it online at:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/accessories.html
Just look for the item #9134

[ATTACH]3609[/ATTACH]

BTW item 9397 is what I use to set my jointer blades or at least this one looks a lot like it.

Ed

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 3:54 am

charlese wrote:
Farmer's post about the glass and magnets intrigues me. I knew I've saved those big speaker magnets for some use other than a floor sweep!! Got to try that blade setting technique! Thanks, Francis!!:)

!

I have several of those big magnets holding themselves to the front of the end cover on the headstocks of several Mark V's at about the same level as the way tubes. That is where the Tee handled allen wrench and the chuck key reside. You don't have to line anything up, just sort of pass it by and it grabs it. Sometimes if I am using a small drill bit and plan to use it again right away I stick it on the magnet. I also have one on my old Craftsman drill press in the other shop. It holds the chuck key and a couple of center drills.
As a shoe cobbler in another life I always kept one glued down to the top of the wooden work bench next to the last jack and tack trays I worked at most and my special French pattern cobblers hammer was always sitting there with its face held tightly to the big magnet and its handle always sticking out ready for a quick grab.
BTW, don't try using one of those big magnets next to your grinder.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:55 am

a1gutterman wrote:Be careful with that acronym Dusty!
SNAFU is military talk for Situation Normal, All F***** Up

Yep, that is exactly what I said. Situation Normal, All Fowled Up

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PTWFE- Chapter 6 - JOINTERS

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