The Carter Stabilizer Band Saw Guide

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:58 pm

Some of you remember my post a couple of weeks ago asking about the carter guide. Well It came Friday and I installed it this morning. It was a simple procedure just remove the old guide replace it with the new one. A simple alignment and it was ready to go. I will give it 5 stars with the 1/8 inch blade. Carter advertises it for blades up to 1/4 inch. I plan to keep it set up with the 1/8 inch at all times. I replaced the tires last week cleaned and greased the top bearing and with the new guide I am very pleased.

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This adjustment nut comes off with a screwdriver.

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Thanks
Mark

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 10:21 pm

I am real interested in hearing how this works out. I am skeptical to say the least.

It appears to me that the Carter Stabilizer is just another thrust bearing but located where the cool blocks would normally be.

It also appears in your photo that you have not aligned the thrust bearing with the blade. This may be a optical allusion but I find that the blade runs much truer if it tracks right between the two bearings.

How far behind the blade do you usually have the thrust bearings set? It appears in the photo that the blade may never get pushed that far back because the Carter Stabilizer is already engaged.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:18 pm

dusty wrote:I am real interested in hearing how this works out. I am skeptical to say the least.

It appears to me that the Carter Stabilizer is just another thrust bearing but located where the cool blocks would normally be.

It also appears in your photo that you have not aligned the thrust bearing with the blade. This may be a optical allusion but I find that the blade runs much truer if it tracks right between the two bearings.

How far behind the blade do you usually have the thrust bearings set? It appears in the photo that the blade may never get pushed that far back because the Carter Stabilizer is already engaged.

IF I correctly understand the method behind the carter stabilizer, It is meant to be this way. The Carter has its own 'groove' that the back of the blade rides in. The front of the blade is free to deflect from side to side to allow tighter radius cuts. It is NOT intended for larger (resawing) blades.

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:55 pm

dusty wrote:I am real interested in hearing how this works out. I am skeptical to say the least.
I have this bearing mounted on my band saw and it works great

It appears to me that the Carter Stabilizer is just another thrust bearing but located where the cool blocks would normally be.
Yep! That is correct.

It also appears in your photo that you have not aligned the thrust bearing with the blade. This may be a optical allusion but I find that the blade runs much truer if it tracks right between the two bearings.
No optical illusion. The original thrust bearing is not used when the Carter bearing is in use

How far behind the blade do you usually have the thrust bearings set? It appears in the photo that the blade may never get pushed that far back because the Carter Stabilizer is already engaged.

See above. The blade never engages the thrust bearing when using the Carter bearing. The blade rides between the Carter bearings and is actually even pushed forward a tad to create tension on the blade.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:08 am

I have heard nothing but good reports on the Carter Stabilizer.

I am unable to see why. I guess this is one of those situations where you have to experience the results to have faith. The basic design is really "no change". At least not one I can see.

How deep into the grove does the blade fit? It can't be far or there would be interference with the blade.

What do you do when using a larger blade? It is my understanding that Carter advertises this only for smaller blades.

What performance characteristics are improved by using the Carter Stabilizer?
Please don't just say "It cuts better".

The Cool Blocks are gone and the Carter Stabilizer is in. This implies, at least to me, that the cool blocks contribute to "the problem" in a way that the Carter Stabilizer avoids. Could it be something as simple as "Cool Block Maintenance" and alignment?

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:21 am

Dusty

When I first got this band saw and set it up with a new 1/8 " blade and cool blocks I got a lot of blade wandering when I did tight scroll cuts. As stated before I plan to keep this set up at all times. With the Carter guide I do not get the wandering or side to side blade movement as before. In my opinion the cool blocks will work fine for blades of 1/4 inch and larger and I certainly wood not want to have to change the guides out when changing blade sizes. As in all tools some are not for every operation but this set up is going to work great for my smaller cutting projects.

Thanks
Mark

sswoodworker48 · Post by **sswoodworker48** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:03 am

Dusty,

Go hereand watch their videos. I've stood and watched Alex cut those reindeer continuously at The Woodworking Show for a number of years now. It is really something. I did finally buy the guide but haven't as yet installed it. Soon as the additions to the garden (Square Foot Garden) are complete, I hope to try out both the Carter guides (also bought the roller bearing guides).

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 11:07 am

By using the double backup bearing modification and backing off or removing the blade guide blocks with blades under ¼" you achieve the same blade stability as the Carter Stabilizer and it works with all of your blades. I think being able to use a 1/8 to 5/8" blade with virtually no additional setup of the saw makes sense. The cost of modifying your saw to the double bearing setup is cheaper and I think it makes for a better saw. My 2 cents worth for the morning.
ldh