Further 'observations': I notice the position of the speed selector dial appears to be 'beyond' "fast". If it was there when you tried to start it at the PO location, AND the motor(fan/floating) sheaves were 'stuck'. I doubt it would have started on a 20A branch circuit. With the 1 1/8HP motor starting up at 'full' speed it REALLY puts an extended(time) strain on the electrical supply! Also in this position, the motor belt has an inclination to drop down between the idler shaft sheaves(control/idler and become jammed.(that condition is indicated by the shafts not rotating by hand though but can grab briefly while starting up)
THAT teeny tiny spring in the later pix of the headstock internals. NOTICE IT! Remember it when removing the speed control form the headstock. Make sure it does not jump/fall out and get lost into whatever happens to be residing on the floor/bench at the time. Store it where it can be found at reassembly time.
SAME pix, Notice the wire retaining clip. You will not see it falling off when removing the screw holding it.(or it will turn with the screw and make backing the screw out frustrating!)
Be careful when removing the headstock and carriage clamps, Remove as musc rust buildup as possible and grease them before backing them out. They can become stripped if forced and will then require cutting it out with a hacksaw and total replacement.
BTW AGAIN Excellent pix!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thanks for the warning ETC! Indeed, I want the SS to get to the cottage! Oddly enough, there is a more modern electrical hookup there (breakers) though only a single circuit going to the woodshed where I plan to store and use the SS, and that powers the lights in there too... Some planning in order here...
Good idea about disassembling the motor and checking out the bearing while I'm at it, thanks.
Welcome to the group. You are a lucky man and will learn a great deal from the folks involved here. I rather suspect we will learn from you as well. Your pictures may well be the best ever of the insides of a headstock. Thanks for sharing them. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Hi JPG,
Thanks for all the observations on the pics, and related advice. Much appreciated. I have indeed backed off the tension on the bandsaw, and will pay attention to all that you have pointed out to me.
Much thanks for the link to the re-assembly messages, to which I cannot but contribute my thanks to those who have already indicated how great a service you have done to the Shopsmith community by putting them together so clearly. I am trying to take pictures and remember where everything goes while disassembling, but those messages will dispell any confusion when it's time to put this baby back together (after cleaning, lubricating, painting, etc.)
Time to take a breather and enjoy this last week of holidays, and get back to the SS renewal work when I have acquired necessary supplies (and appropriate allen keys!!)
Question:
Does the sheave attached to the motor spindle need to come off? It's on there pretty good. Its paired sheave came out fairly easily but that one is stuck on there.
The other snag I have come across is removing the speed dial from the shaft. I see a vague outline of an allen screw head in there, but none of the allen wrenches I have fit it, or loosen it. I'm hoping that someone in the past hasn't hopelessly stripped that... Maybe when I get those 5/32" and 3/32" allen wrenches that Nick keeps mentioning in the sawdust video, one of those will do the trick!...
rstl99 wrote:Question:
Does the sheave attached to the motor spindle need to come off? It's on there pretty good. Its paired sheave came out fairly easily but that one is stuck on there.
The other snag I have come across is removing the speed dial from the shaft. I see a vague outline of an allen screw head in there, but none of the allen wrenches I have fit it, or loosen it. I'm hoping that someone in the past hasn't hopelessly stripped that... Maybe when I get those 5/32" and 3/32" allen wrenches that Nick keeps mentioning in the sawdust video, one of those will do the trick!...
Cheers!
The motor(fan)sheave has a setscrew. look up through the opening in the 'fan' shroud.
I believe the dial set screw IS a 3/32.
Why the pix of the end of the quadrant gear(porkchop)? To separate it from the loop on the end of the control sheave, depress that flat spring with a 'crook' in it and slide the loop off the end. Sure looks like it needs a little oil! It may help it slide. A wire brush wheel(lightly) will remove the top layer of the rust(after disassembly). The loop has a 'spiral' wrapping on the end of the 'loop' which should be free to rotate.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The fan sheve has a set screw right above the keyway slot. So in that pic, it's on top. You'll need a long 5/32 allen, may have to pull the top of the fan sheve out to get it in there.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
beeg wrote:The fan sheve has a set screw right above the keyway slot. So in that pic, it's on top. You'll need a long 5/32 allen, may have to pull the top of the fan sheve out to get it in there.
Do not pry on the fan sheave as it bends and breaks real easy. I remove the fan sheave setscrew and put Kroil into the setscrew hole and let set for a few minutes. Then, I find that using 2 large flat bladed screwdrivers by placing one on each side of the fan sheave hub and motor next to the motor shaft. I tap each screwdriver watching that the key does not move past its key way end. I normally clamp this key to keep it from moving and jaming the fan sheave removal. I use the flat side of the screwdriver to start and then the wide side once the fan sheave is moving. I have found several of the fan sheave setscrews loose that destroyed the fan sheave sheave, motor shaft and the sheave spacer. I use blue LocTite on the this setscrew when tighting. The sheave spacer is what keeps the fan sheave about 1/16"-1/8" off the motor housing. Be sure to remove this spacer once the fan sheave is removed as it is easy to lose.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Thanks for the advice on the fan sheave folks! I will indeed proceed as you all recommended, for removal.
I have everything pretty well out of the headstock now (except the speed adjuster hardware, until I get that 3/32" allen wrench!)
At first inspection, all looks pretty good. Bearings all look ok (spin well, no noise when put close to the ear), EXCEPT the one on the drive sleeve assembly (the one closest the the plastic end).
I'm searching the posts for courses of action, which seem to fall along these lines:
1) buy a new drive sleeve assembly ($100 plus shipping, taxes, etc.)
2) remove and repack the bearing with grease
3) remove and replace the bearing
2 and 3 are not presently attractive, as I don't have necessary pullers and presses to make it happen, but will think about it and read some more in the archives.
I have some Evapo-Rust on order (ordered a gallon of it), and will clean the tubes in it (using the PVC pipe approach). Then clean the various headstock components, and think about putting things back together, once I've addressed the bearing issue.
All in all, I'm quite pleased with my progress so far, but will slow down a bit because I want to enjoy other things in this last week of holidays. It will also give me a chance to clean the garage after taking all that stuff apart.
Thanks again for everybody's help, input, suggestions, and advice!!
--Robert
p.s. maybe it's the aluminum casing, but working on the headstock has brought back memories of when I had completely taken apart and rebuilt a VW air-cooled engine some years ago. That was another level of complexity, for sure!
rstl99 wrote:
p.s. maybe it's the aluminum casing, but working on the headstock has brought back memories of when I had completely taken apart and rebuilt a VW air-cooled engine some years ago. That was another level of complexity, for sure!
Well now my experience in rebuilding an air cooled VW engine was a disaster. I suspect this project will be a piece of cake for you. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
