$75 Shopsmith - let the fun begin...

[JPG]

. . .

I have some Evapo-Rust on order (ordered a gallon of it), and will clean the tubes in it (using the PVC pipe approach). Then clean the various headstock components, and think about putting things back together, once I've addressed the bearing issue.

. . .

--Robert

p.s. maybe it's the aluminum casing, but working on the headstock has brought back memories of when I had completely taken apart and rebuilt a VW air-cooled engine some years ago. That was another level of complexity, for sure!

If planning on using PVC pipe, use 2" on 'outside' and 1"(closed ends) 'inside'. Requires less $20/gallon 'stuff'! Cut them to just enough length to allow the tube(bench is longer) to go into the 'outer' pipe and the 'inside' pipe just long enough to fit inside the way(shorter) tube.

NOTE: the 1" pipe mentioned above should be 3/4 pipe!

[rstl99]

Well now my experience in rebuilding an air cooled VW engine was a disaster. I suspect this project will be a piece of cake for you. Jim

After spending way too much money, machine shop time, and my own time, rebuilding the VW engine, I put it back in the bus in the Fall and couldn't get it fired up. Figured I would wait until Spring to sort it out, so parked it. Chanced upon a diesel Mercedes van/camper which I bought, and sold the VW as is. The buyer later told me the wiring problem was simple, and it fired up no problem, and as far as I know is still running! So I guess I did a decent job rebuilding it (too much time and too much money though, in hindsight). The MB camper? Sold it 2 years later because it was too big, and engine was too small. Great truck though, wish I still had it...
[ATTACH]5516[/ATTACH]
Hopefully the Shopsmith project will be a piece of cake, time will tell... But with advice as I am getting off this forum, how could I not succeed??

[rstl99]

If planning on using PVC pipe, use 2" on 'outside' and 1"(closed ends) 'inside'. Requires less $20/gallon 'stuff'! Cut them to just enough length to allow the tube(bench is longer) to go into the 'outer' pipe and the 'inside' pipe just long enough to fit inside the way(shorter) tube.

Thanks JPG, wise advice. I only ordered one gallon of the stuff (and up here in Canada, it's $30/gal! )
Does that 1" closed en piece for the center tend to want to float out when pouring the stuff in?
I'll remember to measure the bench tube length for cutting the pipes.
Look forward to seeing what Evaporust will do for my saw blade and jointer!!!

[ATTACH]5517[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]5518[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

Thanks JPG, wise advice. I only ordered one gallon of the stuff (and up here in Canada, it's $30/gal! )
Does that 1" closed en piece for the center tend to want to float out when pouring the stuff in?
I'll remember to measure the bench tube length for cutting the pipes.
Look forward to seeing what Evaporust will do for my saw blade and jointer!!!

The 1" pipe WILL try to float out, but is easy to hold in. Allow an inch or two extra length. If making a set(2) just cut the 2" in half(10 ft/2). Cut the 1" so it will fit into the 2" after both(2" and 1") have the end caps attached. Remember only one end of the 2" need to be an access plug. All others can be capped. The extra length will not require extra evapo-rust since you only have to pour enough in to just submerge them. Have a large open top container to empty the tubes into. That tiny hole in the jug the evapo-rust came in is difficult to 'hit' while balancing all the above WITH a tube inside! Be prepared for the tube to slide out when the pipe is emptied. The evapo-rust is 'stickey'(think very thin honey). Do not be concerned with flushing out the inside of the tube. The evapo-rust will act like a rust-preventative. The outside may either be flushed(washed) off or just let the polishing operation take it off.(you ARE going to polish them?)


NOTE! the references above to 1" pipe should be 3/4" pipe!<<<<<<<<*************////////////

[a1gutterman]

Thanks JPG, wise advice. I only ordered one gallon of the stuff (and up here in Canada, it's $30/gal! )
Does that 1" closed en piece for the center tend to want to float out when pouring the stuff in?
I'll remember to measure the bench tube length for cutting the pipes.
Look forward to seeing what Evaporust will do for my saw blade and jointer!!!

You can fill it with something, like sand or water, to help keep it from "popping" out.

[JPG]

You can fill it with something, like sand or water, to help keep it from "popping" out.

In spite of comments in a previous thread it does NOT make like a rocket taking off! It just gradually raises up out of the larger pipe/tube. Actually it helps to get it out. It pushes in real easy and can be easily held while pouring the Evapo-rust into the tube/pipe.

[rstl99]

Thanks, I'll proceed as suggested with the tubes etc.

Just called a parts place in Canada, who used to sell a lot of Shopsmith parts and say that their stock is almost depleted now. The guy said that Shopsmith hasn't been making parts for a year now, and is going through a tough economic period, in part due to competition from chinese knockoffs etc.

Is this true? Would be sad to see this company fall under...

He has a Drive Sleeve Assembly in stock (mine has a bad bearing so I need to replace it). I told him I'd check into what other parts I may need for my restoration before placing an order (not going hog-wild here, but if something warrants replacement I will likely do it). If there's something else you feel I should get at the same time, I'd appreciate suggestions. Thanks!

[rstl99]

I have found a canadian supplier of SS parts, who have a "drive sleeve assembly" (part no. 518145) still in stock. Based on the diagram, I believe this is the part I took out of my drivetrain andwhich has a faulty bearing. I figure it's easier to just get a new unit, since I'm not equipped (tool and knowhow wise) to attempt a bearing replacement.

In watching the sawdust session, he refers to this part (see picture of mine) as the "drive shaft". Is that synonymous with "drive sleeve assembly"? If not, please correct me, as I would hate to order the wrong part!

Thanks.

[ATTACH]5522[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

I have found a canadian supplier of SS parts, who have a "drive sleeve assembly" (part no. 518145) still in stock. Based on the diagram, I believe this is the part I took out of my drivetrain andwhich has a faulty bearing. I figure it's easier to just get a new unit, since I'm not equipped (tool and knowhow wise) to attempt a bearing replacement.

In watching the sawdust session, he refers to this part (see picture of mine) as the "drive shaft". Is that synonymous with "drive sleeve assembly"? If not, please correct me, as I would hate to order the wrong part!

Thanks.

518145 IS what you pictured, but without the white plastic(nylon?) quill splined shaft coupler.

[rstl99]

Thanks for confirming that part, I'll order it tomorrow, as well as the power coupler that I am missing for the bandsaw!

As far as tube refurbishing supplies, I just came back from shopping at two big box hardware stores (HD and RONA) and neither had 1" ABS. So I got a single 2" ABS and will clean the tubes individually, using the gallon of Evaporust which I also bought today. Finally got a 3/32" wrench and removed the speed adjuster. The only thing left in the casing is the quill advance/lock shaft and levers, which I"ll probably remove as well to give the whole case a good cleaning and re-painting.

Could not find suitably-sized expansion/freeze/test plugs, so that will go to another day and another store...

Whew, getting hot here, first time in the Summer! Time to put the SS project on hold for a few days...

Cheers!