Joiner problem - repairable?

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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

hobbydad wrote:beeg,

Thank you for pointing that out. I only wish I would have checked out the joiner earlier, when all of those parts were on sale...

riot_nrrd, thanks for the lead time info.

Loren
Loren,
Patience is a virtue, i.e., they will go on sale again. If you can knot wait, don't wait.
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
keakap
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Post by keakap »

Wow. I never thought to look at that stuff.
Ironic that the part that puts all that distorting stress on the quadrant is the fence slide lock, which in use requires only a very very small amount of torque.

When you get your new quadrant don't be disappointed if your fence rises at the outfeed end as you tighten the fence lock. It should.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

keakap wrote:Wow. I never thought to look at that stuff.
Ironic that the part that puts all that distorting stress on the quadrant is the fence slide lock, which in use requires only a very very small amount of torque.

When you get your new quadrant don't be disappointed if your fence rises at the outfeed end as you tighten the fence lock. It should.
Yes indeed! It is NOT supposed to ride the base. It SHOULD rise slightly off the base when tightened. At least my 45+++ year old one has and does do this.

Critical advice: NEVER put any stress on the fence. IT is NOT a handle nor a point for picking up OR moving. IT has considerable mechanical advantage(long lever arm) over the 'clamp'.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
hobbydad
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Post by hobbydad »

So, from recent advice (thank you to keakap and JPG40504), it sounds like my "problem" may not actually cause me any trouble. If I tighten the fence down just enough to keep it from moving laterally, it rises off the table about 1/8". It still has some vertical play, but will only deflect away from the cutter head laterally about 1/16" with moderate pressure. Am I correct in thinking that lateral stress away from the cutter head (toward the headstock) should be the only stress on the fence during operation?

Loren
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

hobbydad wrote:So, from recent advice (thank you to keakap and JPG40504), it sounds like my "problem" may not actually cause me any trouble. If I tighten the fence down just enough to keep it from moving laterally, it rises off the table about 1/8". It still has some vertical play, but will only deflect away from the cutter head laterally about 1/16" with moderate pressure. Am I correct in thinking that lateral stress away from the cutter head (toward the headstock) should be the only stress on the fence during operation?

Loren
The only direction you will be applying force to the fence is that required to hold the workpiece tightly against it. If it does deflect slightly, it will NOT affect the cut etc. The only purpose of the fence is to hold the workpiece in a vertical plane(unless a bevel cut in which case it holds it at the bevel angle)[or a rabbet].

The 1/8" and the 1/16" deflection seems high, but then looking at the deformed shape of the quadrant/slide/clamp, it is not surprising.

If it performs satisfactorily for your purposes, it could be ignored, however be careful to NOT overtighten it since it WILL get worse if you do so. This is not the only part that cannot take over-torque from that knob. Resist the temptation to really twist it tight(it cannot go anywhere but sideways if it is loose anyway).


If it does not, get a replacement. Check for wear of the other parts.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
keakap
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Post by keakap »

JPG40504 wrote: IT has considerable mechanical advantage(long lever arm) over the 'clamp'.
Congratulations, Understatement of the Day award winner!

I hadn't thought of it in quite that light, but that is so true, and that fence is one heavy dude to boot, even without the auxiliary fence.

Mine also rises above the table, at least 1/8". Always has, or close enough to seem so. And yes, I used to be a little heavy handed on the lock, too, no doubt essplaning the very slight (almost negligible) quadrant deformation about which we are talking.

About the leverage, I do believe I will make a small pad of some non-scratching material and glue it to the bottom rest nub near the outward end of the fence, so it will always have support out there. Maybe I can make my quadrant last forever...
Or lower my auxiliary fence so it is always on the table.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
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