Table Alignment, Mark V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:55 pm

There has been much discussion and some disagreement on how to best align the Mark V. Much of the disagreement regards the use of a dial indicator to facilitate that alignment. This along with my recent acquisition of the V120 Miter Gauge got me to thinking and playing.

The V120 is a terrific accessory and serves well as a point of reference for the table alignment. I set the V120 for zero degrees and then checked it with the MiterSet and with a Wixey. The V120 was dead on.

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For this alignment, I chose to use a piece of milled aluminum in lieu of a square. I know this piece to be perfectly square, it is a good size and weight for use here.

I loosened the four studs that secure the main table to the trunnions. I then inserted a dollar bill behind the trunnion (per Nick's tip), set the table to zero tilt and mounted the V120.

I then used the aluminum piece to position the table, squaring the table to the blade using the aluminum piece (the square).

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I tightened the studs that secure the table.

No dial indicator, no Wixey (except to validate the V120), no feeler gauges and no fooling around tapping here and tapping there to position the table. The table was simply moved so as to position the aluminum piece against the blade and the miter fence.

The fence is perpendicular to the blade and the blade is parallel to the miter track.

Checking with a feeler gauge, I cannot insert a .002" feeler between the aluminum piece and either the fence or the blade.

Don't forget the dollar bill.

BTW, I did check the alignments with my dial indicator but we won't discuss the findings here.

Many feel that the results are irrelevant because after all we are working with wood which tends to change size and shape.

This was done using a piece of square aluminum but an engineer's square (or a piece of squared wood) would work perfectly well.

It can also be done using the Shopsmith miter gauge rather than the V120. The Shopsmith miter bar might need to be shimmed tight in the miter track.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:08 pm

dusty wrote: No dial indicator, no Wixey (except to validate the V120), no feeler gauges and no fooling around tapping here and tapping there to position the table. The table was simply moved so as to position the aluminum piece against the blade and the miter fence.
...

HOME RUN !

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:16 pm

Good Job! Dusty!!:D Excellent explanation!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:04 am

Your photos really complimented your description. It made the post VERY easy to understand. Great shots.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:17 am

Having a truly square piece of metal like that makes many jobs much easier.

Nicely documented btw. Well done.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:29 am

foxtrapper wrote:Having a truly square piece of metal like that makes many jobs much easier.

Nicely documented btw. Well done.

Thank you, all for the kind words.

With regard to the piece of aluminum - let me emphasize the fact that this is not "required". The exact same process can be utilized using a piece of wood that has been squared. In fact, the procedure can be done using a square.

I now prefer this method because I can lay the aluminum (the squared block) on the table, push it tight against the miter fence and then the blade and begin alignment. The evidence of error that needs to be corrected is right there in front of you. Just move the table, as required, push the block back into the corner to confirm corrections and you are done.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:44 pm

dusty wrote:Thank you, all for the kind words.

With regard to the piece of aluminum - let me emphasize the fact that this is not "required". The exact same process can be utilized using a piece of wood that has been squared. In fact, the procedure can be done using a square.

I now prefer this method because I can lay the aluminum (the squared block) on the table, push it tight against the miter fence and then the blade and begin alignment. The evidence of error that needs to be corrected is right there in front of you. Just move the table, as required, push the block back into the corner to confirm corrections and you are done.

While I totally agree that this method is quite adequate for aligning a wood saw, I cannot help but wOnder why you did NOT 'measure its accuracy' with your excellent dial indicator gauge and fixture which you have touted in previous posts.

I really would like to know IF there really is any advantage/good reason to get closer to 'perfection' by utilizing a more precise indicator than a square object.

One detail concerns me! You have assumed a FLAT blade.

Maybe you need to get a 2"thick cylinder with a 12" diameter and a 0.626 hole bored at an exact 90 degree angle to the face to use as a 'reference':D

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:16 pm

JPG40504 wrote:While I totally agree that this method is quite adequate for aligning a wood saw, I cannot help but wOnder why you did NOT 'measure its accuracy' with your excellent dial indicator gauge and fixture which you have touted in previous posts.

I really would like to know IF there really is any advantage/good reason to get closer to 'perfection' by utilizing a more precise indicator than a square object.

One detail concerns me! You have assumed a FLAT blade.

Maybe you need to get a 2"thick cylinder with a 12" diameter and a 0.626 hole bored at an exact 90 degree angle to the face to use as a 'reference':D

Well, actually I did utilize the dial indicator but only as a followup confirmation. There are too many people who don't believe that the dial indicator is necessary and they are correct. There are other ways - I have never said there wasn't.

I get frustrated with the tap it here, no tap it there routine and now I don't have to tap it at all.

As for the blade being used for calibration rather than an special reference plate - if you want to provide one, I'll use it. I don't imagine getting one of those milled would be cheap. I could have used a sanding disk but why?

I did check the blade to see how flat it was/wasn't. That is very easily done by simply turning the blade by hand and watching it move back and forth from the aluminum plate.

FWIW, I already know the run out figures for this blade and arbor. I did that a couple weeks ago and I believe have posted the results here as well.

What does all this mean? It means that the Shopsmith can be set up to provide results accurate to less than .005" whether you think that is important or not. Furthermore, it can be done without the fancy gauges and calipers. This time I used a set of feeler gauges. Specifically, I finished by using a .002" feeler which would not go between the aluminum block and the blade or the fence.

I think that is probably close enough for government work.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:28 pm

dusty wrote:Well, actually I did utilize the dial indicator but only as a followup confirmation. There are too many people who don't believe that the dial indicator is necessary and they are correct. There are other ways - I have never said there wasn't.

I get frustrated with the tap it here, no tap it there routine and now I don't have to tap it at all.

As for the blade being used for calibration rather than an special reference plate - if you want to provide one, I'll use it. I don't imagine getting one of those milled would be cheap. I could have used a sanding disk but why?

I did check the blade to see how flat it was/wasn't. That is very easily done by simply turning the blade by hand and watching it move back and forth from the aluminum plate.

FWIW, I already know the run out figures for this blade and arbor. I did that a couple weeks ago and I believe have posted the results here as well.

What does all this mean? It means that the Shopsmith can be set up to provide results accurate to less than .005" whether you think that is important or not. Furthermore, it can be done without the fancy gauges and calipers. This time I used a set of feeler gauges. Specifically, I finished by using a .002" feeler which would not go between the aluminum block and the blade or the fence.

I think that is probably close enough for government work.

As well as most all woodworking!:) Feeler gauges are probably over kill also! My eyes are NOT as good as they used to be(too much sawdust maybe?), but I can still see 'gaps'!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:38 pm

JPG40504 wrote:As well as most all woodworking!:) Feeler gauges are probably over kill also! My eyes are NOT as good as they used to be(too much sawdust maybe?), but I can still see 'gaps'!

Get yourself a squared block of MDF and just tune up your table by looking for the gaps. Since they don't have to be real tightly spec'd you won't need your feelers, calipers or dial indicators. Send them to me and I'll find a good use for them.