Bevel Ripping

[gregwarren]

I usually try to avoid making bevel cuts with my Shopsmith because I find it hard to keep everything where it ought to be on a tilted table. However, my current project calls for several boards to be ripped with a 45 degree bevel along the edge. I was messing around with getting it set up today and found that the lower saw guard (the piece that attaches to the table posts) keeps the table from tilting all the way to 45 degrees. Does that need to be removed to make this cut?

Two of the pieces I have to cut are 8 inches wide and get a 45 degree bevel on both sides. I don't think the table is wide enough to use the rip fence (Model 500) so what do I do instead? Any other advice about cutting bevels like this?

Greg Warren

[john]

Greg:

The lower guard does get in the way but I usually solve this by advancing the quill as the table tilts. A little cumbersome, and almost requires three hands but it works for me.

Good luck.

John

[robinson46176]

Not a problem I have but I have a couple thoughts.
What if you make a table surface out of plywood that extends past the edge of the table enough that you could clamp a wooden fence to the plywood?
Or...
How about a tall sacrificial fence attached to the regular fence and running the board flat on the fence instead of the table surface.
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Just random thinking of other circumstances now...
I have never tried that exact cut on a Mark VII but I think that the extension table would slide into the main table sockets far enough that the fence could be attached to the extension table rail. If the extension could not be inserted far enough without the tubes getting in the way of the blade then a wood spacer could be added to the fence face.
An extra Mark VII table extension with the tubes cut off a little might be handy to have around.
I still think an upgraded Mark VII with the new power pro motor would make a good 530.
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Of course with a 510 / 520 you would just add an extension to the table.
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I would make that cut on my TS-3650 so I don't know about my 510, if there is that much room to the right of the blade without an extension or not.
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A couple of pics of the Mark VII table extension.
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[reible]

Hi Greg,

How long are the piece you need to put the bevel on? I might have a few ways depending on the length.

Ed

I usually try to avoid making bevel cuts with my Shopsmith because I find it hard to keep everything where it ought to be on a tilted table. However, my current project calls for several boards to be ripped with a 45 degree bevel along the edge. I was messing around with getting it set up today and found that the lower saw guard (the piece that attaches to the table posts) keeps the table from tilting all the way to 45 degrees. Does that need to be removed to make this cut?

Two of the pieces I have to cut are 8 inches wide and get a 45 degree bevel on both sides. I don't think the table is wide enough to use the rip fence (Model 500) so what do I do instead? Any other advice about cutting bevels like this?

Greg Warren

[gregwarren]

Thanks for the ideas so far.

I've extended the quill but the table still hits the lower saw guard before it gets to 45 degrees. I've tried to force it but it only gets to about 40 degrees.

I don't have the Mark VII extension that's shown in the pictures. The Shopsmith I have is a Mark V, model 500.

The pieces I'm cutting are 8" long.

Greg Warren

[reible]

Hi,

If I have this right the pieces are 8" x 8". I think I would look at using the miter gauge to make the cuts.

You should first make an extension to attach to the front of the miter gauge, it is going to be sacrificial, so don't use/make a fancy one. The extension should be placed extending out in the direction of the blade so that the 8" x 8" piece is fully supported for its entire length. After fastening to the miter gauge let the blade cut the extension and you can use that to line up the location of the cut. Use the safety grip to hold the work piece secure if you have one and it can get a good grip on the work piece.

You will need to use the lower miter slot to make sure the blade is away from the miter gauge. Make sure you are standing well clear of the cut line as the small piece being cut off may decide to not stay in place... it should be pushed clear by the extension piece but one never knows.

Set this up and see how this feels to you and if you don't think it feels safe then you might want to explore other ways. There are several more options but they get more involved so with keeping it simple the idea above is certainly simple.

Ed

[edflorence]

Thanks for the ideas so far.

I've extended the quill but the table still hits the lower saw guard before it gets to 45 degrees. I've tried to force it but it only gets to about 40 degrees.

I don't have the Mark VII extension that's shown in the pictures. The Shopsmith I have is a Mark V, model 500.

The pieces I'm cutting are 8" long.

Greg Warren

Hi Greg...

the way I have done these rip bevels on my 500 is by making a blank zero clearance insert for the table, raising the table above the blade, tilting the table to 45 and then SLOWLY lowering the table back down until the needed height of blade is exposed. Others have posted that they feel it is necessary to clamp the insert in place while cutting through it, but I have found that the two screws are sufficient. You will still have to extend the quill a bit to get the blade centered under the table when it is tilted, but other than that, the SS will cut a 45 bevel without problem.

Having said that, if your pieces are actually 8" square, I would look for another way to rip the edges as a piece that small is a bit spooky...you need push sticks and down pressing feather boards for sure.

Hope that helps.

[JPG]

Thanks for the ideas so far.

I've extended the quill but the table still hits the lower saw guard before it gets to 45 degrees. I've tried to force it but it only gets to about 40 degrees.

I don't have the Mark VII extension that's shown in the pictures. The Shopsmith I have is a Mark V, model 500.

The pieces I'm cutting are 8" long.

Greg Warren

Does the table have the second slot(similar to the Mark VII table)? If so that gives you extra width capability.

I cannot answer re blade guard. In 1962, blade guards were an optional extra cost accessory.

If you are REALLY REALLY desperate PM me and I will tell you another VERY DANGEROUS method!

Farmer! Shame on you for making us jealous of you having options with a MARK VII that most of us can only wish we had!:D And and and you have THREE of them!:eek:

[davebodner]

Beveling at 45 degrees should be quite doable. I've used edflorence's method, but using the regular insert. I'm not sure that the zero-clearance insert is adding. Actually, you don't even need to raise the table if the table is loose on the ways. Remember to lock the table after it's tilted. Of course that should go without saying, but I've forgotten plenty of times (my number #1 source of inaccuracy).

[edflorence]

Dave is correct...the zero clearance insert is not necessary. I just find that using one adds support for the sometimes skinny cut off from a bevel cut and is safer. I use these inserts as often as I can and have pre-cut ones for the common bevel angles, 22.5, 30 and 45.