Since the glass window will be near horizontal I am adding copper foil to the edges of each piece of glass. From what I have read this will increase the strength and help prevent sagging. I am using 7/32 wide foil to wrap the edges. Last night during the Colts game, I wrapped several cut pieces. I used a round piece of wood to smooth the foil.
If I had not sanded the edge (in the prior post) then the foil would have a bulge in that area and would not fit well to the next piece.
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Stained glass windows
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osx-addict
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Paul --paul269 wrote:I was working with the macro setting of the Nikon D90 with the standard 3.5 18-105 lens. I am not too impressed with the macro abilities of this lens.
Keep an eye out for a Nikon 105mm Micro/Macro lens or its newer VR cousin.. I've got one on my D70 (bought in 2005 for $500 -- used) and it works great for the super close ups and has awesome depth of field.. However, I find that I've got to be sufficiently far away from an object if you are shooting something large since the distance mechanism/zoom isn't the same as a regular lens zoom lens (e.g. the kit lens). For reference you can check out a review of it here.. Sorry for being a bit OT..
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
Because it continues to rain, I have had ample time to work on the window.
Remember, this is my first attempt at a making a stained glass window. Therefore, I am not claiming that this THE way to make a window, only that it is the way I am making a window. For those among us who have experience in this field please feel free to critique my methodology, or add suggestions.
I have wrapped all edges in 7/32 black back copper foil. I plan to use a black patina on the solder. The back of the copper foil will be visible through the clear glass and show contrast between the black solder and the copper. The black back of the foil enables the seams to be all black.
As you can see in this photo, all pieces have been cut, wrapped in copper foil and loosely placed on the pattern. I used white pine to make a 90 degree corner on the work bench and I am using my framing square on the opposite end.
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To hold the pieces in place some people use pins or push tacks. I decided to place a small amount of solder at the joints, keeping the piece square and true to the pattern. Should I need to move a piece I only have to heat the solder. I have a paste flux that I apply sparingly to the copper foil with an acid brush. I only add enough flux to make the copper “hazy.”
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I have an old 25 watt iron (top) and purchased a 40 watt iron (bottom). The 25 watt was not of sufficient power to melt the solder and the pointed tip did not work well. The 40 watt works ok and the wider tip covers the joint.
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I have noticed an accumulation of “crud” on the tip of the iron and have removed it with 100 grit paper. If anyone knows of a better way to remove this build up please let me know.
The goal is to get a nice even and smooth joint. I try to do a single joint in one pass. I found that if you stop in the middle of soldering a joint then there will be an area of demarcation and it is somewhat unsightly.
[ATTACH]6617[/ATTACH]
After I get done soldering all of the joints on this side I will have to flip the window and do the other side of the window.
[ATTACH]6618[/ATTACH]
Remember, this is my first attempt at a making a stained glass window. Therefore, I am not claiming that this THE way to make a window, only that it is the way I am making a window. For those among us who have experience in this field please feel free to critique my methodology, or add suggestions.
I have wrapped all edges in 7/32 black back copper foil. I plan to use a black patina on the solder. The back of the copper foil will be visible through the clear glass and show contrast between the black solder and the copper. The black back of the foil enables the seams to be all black.
As you can see in this photo, all pieces have been cut, wrapped in copper foil and loosely placed on the pattern. I used white pine to make a 90 degree corner on the work bench and I am using my framing square on the opposite end.
[ATTACH]6614[/ATTACH]
To hold the pieces in place some people use pins or push tacks. I decided to place a small amount of solder at the joints, keeping the piece square and true to the pattern. Should I need to move a piece I only have to heat the solder. I have a paste flux that I apply sparingly to the copper foil with an acid brush. I only add enough flux to make the copper “hazy.”
[ATTACH]6615[/ATTACH]
I have an old 25 watt iron (top) and purchased a 40 watt iron (bottom). The 25 watt was not of sufficient power to melt the solder and the pointed tip did not work well. The 40 watt works ok and the wider tip covers the joint.
[ATTACH]6616[/ATTACH]
I have noticed an accumulation of “crud” on the tip of the iron and have removed it with 100 grit paper. If anyone knows of a better way to remove this build up please let me know.
The goal is to get a nice even and smooth joint. I try to do a single joint in one pass. I found that if you stop in the middle of soldering a joint then there will be an area of demarcation and it is somewhat unsightly.
[ATTACH]6617[/ATTACH]
After I get done soldering all of the joints on this side I will have to flip the window and do the other side of the window.
[ATTACH]6618[/ATTACH]
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osx-addict wrote:Paul --
Keep an eye out for a Nikon 105mm Micro/Macro lens or its newer VR cousin.. I've got one on my D70 (bought in 2005 for $500 -- used) and it works great for the super close ups and has awesome depth of field.. However, I find that I've got to be sufficiently far away from an object if you are shooting something large since the distance mechanism/zoom isn't the same as a regular lens zoom lens (e.g. the kit lens). For reference you can check out a review of it here.. Sorry for being a bit OT..
OSX,
Thanks for the suggestion,
I have a Nikon 60/2.8 AF macro lens that is great for 1:1 imagery but I tend to keep it in the lab most of the time. Although it is great at macro photography, it is not well suited for my general photographic needs. With the D70 I upgraded to the Nikon 2.8/24-85mm AF lens. The maximum macro reproduction ratio is 1:2. This suited my needs in the field as I could later scale the image.