Unable to mount my reconditioned headstock on the tubes
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- Silver Member
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- Location: Dallas TX area
Unable to mount my reconditioned headstock on the tubes
All,
I sent out my headstock for reconditioning/repair to an individual who is well known for quality work. It just came back in the mail, but I have discovered I am unable to mount it back on the tubes.
I have been in e-mail contact with the individual and he suggested that the headstock locks (of which there are 2 - one on each side) rotated during shipping. He suggested rotating them until the flat side is facing down on each side.
But that's not my problem. You can clearly see that the motor is in the way of one of the tube holes. Specifically, there appears to be a semi-cylindrical part bolted onto the motor that is in the way. You can see where some of the gray paint on this part is scratched due to my efforts to fit the tube in the hole.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Is this common? Could something have shifted in shipping perhaps?
Thanks.
Chuck
I sent out my headstock for reconditioning/repair to an individual who is well known for quality work. It just came back in the mail, but I have discovered I am unable to mount it back on the tubes.
I have been in e-mail contact with the individual and he suggested that the headstock locks (of which there are 2 - one on each side) rotated during shipping. He suggested rotating them until the flat side is facing down on each side.
But that's not my problem. You can clearly see that the motor is in the way of one of the tube holes. Specifically, there appears to be a semi-cylindrical part bolted onto the motor that is in the way. You can see where some of the gray paint on this part is scratched due to my efforts to fit the tube in the hole.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Is this common? Could something have shifted in shipping perhaps?
Thanks.
Chuck
It sure sounds like the motor bracket(s) pulled loose. I am getting a motor returned this week for the similar problem. The motor mount hole(s) were stripped during shipping as I had it bolted to plywood. If anyone has a good way of shipping motors, I would appreciate hearing about it.chuckk2333 wrote:All,
I sent out my headstock for reconditioning/repair to an individual who is well known for quality work. It just came back in the mail, but I have discovered I am unable to mount it back on the tubes.
I have been in e-mail contact with the individual and he suggested that the headstock locks (of which there are 2 - one on each side) rotated during shipping. He suggested rotating them until the flat side is facing down on each side.
But that's not my problem. You can clearly see that the motor is in the way of one of the tube holes. Specifically, there appears to be a semi-cylindrical part bolted onto the motor that is in the way. You can see where some of the gray paint on this part is scratched due to my efforts to fit the tube in the hole.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Is this common? Could something have shifted in shipping perhaps?
Thanks.
Chuck
You will want to remove the belt cover (2 screws) and see if the motor, sheaves and shaft still look parallel to the center of the motor pan and is not loose in the motor pan. You should be able to see what is stopping the tubes with the belt cover off. I would check the 4 motor mount bolts to see if they are still tight. Let us know what you find. Thanks.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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Bill,
I removed the belt cover as you suggested and found that one of the motor mounting brackets was broken. I have included a picture of it. Also one motor mounting screw was missing as well.
Will I need to order a new bracket? If so, it looks like I will have to apply some force to get the motor back into position, seeing as how the motor is under tension by the belt. I'm not sure how to do that.
Thanks.
Chuck
I removed the belt cover as you suggested and found that one of the motor mounting brackets was broken. I have included a picture of it. Also one motor mounting screw was missing as well.
Will I need to order a new bracket? If so, it looks like I will have to apply some force to get the motor back into position, seeing as how the motor is under tension by the belt. I'm not sure how to do that.
Thanks.
Chuck
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- broken_motor_mount.JPG (25.53 KiB) Viewed 7727 times
- cincinnati
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
I am not sure Shopsmith has anyone to quickly rebuild headstocks or if they still do. I would believe they will have to free someone up every week or two to catch up for this type of work.cincinnati wrote:Not to get off topic but always wondered. Is that e-bay guy a lot cheaper than sending it to Shopsmith for repair? Why not have Shopsmith do it?
I am not sure a new bracket can be ordered. Is it not part of the motor?
You cannot order the broken part. I have not had any success trying to weld the leg as the metal is a combination of aluminum alloys (like pot metal). I like to buy bad and broken motors just to get these unique parts. Contact me off-line if there is no insurance or adjustment from the repair person or you need help.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
If I am seeing the pix properly, the bracket broken is the one on the back end of the motor(end opposite the output shaft). My 510 has a different bracket there(steel bolted to the motor shell). This is a stout steel bar that could be fabricated to fit. However if you sent it off for repair, that may not be something you want to get into. In any event, you will need to remove the motor the first step of which is to remove the drive belt. I am a bit concerned that the pix(and your description of the interference putting it back on the way tubes) indicate a shift in the motor position. If the bolts are not loose or broken, how can it be displaced that much with only one bracket broken?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Based on when I tore down my headstock, whatever impact hit the motor area during shipping probably twisted the motor pan. You'll probably have to do some gentle persuasion to get everything realigned.
Craig
Hartland, WI
-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
Hartland, WI
-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
Welding bracket
If the bracket is cast steel it can be welded. Take a magnet and see if it will stick to it if so then you can weld it. I would grind the broken joint on both pieces and preheat them to 250 -350 degrees then weld it with a nickel wire like 81 nickel wire then but it in a oven at 350 degrees for an hour then turn the oven of and let it cool. Then it should be good has new.
Clyde
Clyde
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I'm assuming if someone were to do this that the brackets should be removed from the rest of the motor as I doubt you'd want to put the entire motor in the oven at that temperature -- I'd assume you'd damage other electrical components at that temp.. Just clarifying..CDH wrote:If the bracket is cast steel it can be welded. Take a magnet and see if it will stick to it if so then you can weld it. I would grind the broken joint on both pieces and preheat them to 250 -350 degrees then weld it with a nickel wire like 81 nickel wire then but it in a oven at 350 degrees for an hour then turn the oven of and let it cool. Then it should be good has new.
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)