Nick's knife jig

[beeg]

Has anybody built and used Nicks jointer knife setting jig? Or maybe Spikes, that he was going to post?

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[michaeltoc]

Yes - and it works great. Search the forums because someone (I forgot who) made a modification where a piece is added to screw into the top of the magnet and attach to the vertical gauge support. This makes the set up much more stable.

[ldh]

The pics of the one I built. It works well for me.

ldh


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[randythewoodchuck]

I've been trying to view this on the "Sawdust Sessions" session 6, but am unable to view, as it says the video is currently not available. Anyone know if it is available somewhere else?

[chucks]

has anyone trie this one.....looks very simple.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Workshop ... px?id=5294

[billmayo]

I have set/adjusted many sets of joiner knives without using any jig. It takes me about 3-5 minutes to do all 3 knives. My method is very simple to me. You will need a 12" straight edge steel ruler. I get mine from a sliding 45/90 combination square and ruler. Any joiner I get, I remove the knives, sharpen them, remove the cutter head and clean it with a wire brush. I set the 2 adjustment screws all the way down before cleaning. I replace the bearings and reinstall the cutter head with no knives. I end up with many small cuts when installing the knives if I am not careful.

Then I set the first knife into the cutter head (knife edge toward input side) and install the wedge and the 3 #10-32 screws with #10 S/S lockwashers ( I really like using these lockwashers). The knife extends about a 1/16" out from the edge of the outfeed table (I use the thickness of my 12" straight edge steel ruler againest the edge of the outfeed table to set this) for the rabbet cut capability. I just snug the wedge screws down. When I snug down the wedge before adjusting the height, I hold the T-handle hex wrench by the shaft with 2 fingers and turn the screws down until I cannot turn the wrench shaft with my 2 fingers not touching the T-handle. I set the steel ruler on edge on the output table extending over the knife at one end of the knife. I use the 5/32" T-handle hex wrench in the adjusting screw on that end and start raising the knife ( very slow when the knife is getting close to the ruler) while rocking the cutter head back and forth with the hex wrench watching for the knife to contact the ruler. The ruler is always on the outside of the hex wrench. The ruler may fall over a few times until you get the hang of it. I am only touching the T-handle on the hex wrench as I rock it back and forth about 10 degrees on either side of top dead center for the cutter head blade and slowing raising the blade at the same time until the blade just touches/raises the straight edge ruler. You will hear and see the ruler lift slightly when this happens. Stop. Now I switch to the other end of the cutter head. Do the same thing stopping when the ruler is just rising off the table. The ruler should slide very little (I go for a 1/8” movement of the ruler) toward the end that you are rocking the cutter toward. You will hear when this happens. You need to have your eyes at the table level to see the ruler being raised at first. Now I go by sound mostly. Now go back to the original side you started from and repeat the same action for that side. It will only take a very small adjustment for this side. Until you get the hang of it, you may want to check both sides for the same amount of movement Once this side is done again, tighten each wedge lock screw a little starting in the middle and rotating the tightening until all screws are tight and go to the next knife.

If the knives are raised too high, you must remove the wedge, reset the adjustment screws down and start over. This happen the first few times I did it years ago so now I just lift the ruler about a dollar bill high (.002-.0025) and a 1/8” slide. The knives must be only a slight bit higher (.001-.003") than the output table to really cut cleanly. Whatever I set the first knife, and then I set the other 2 knives the same. Remember, a little bit will do.

I got a listing of this procedure from a Harvey Smith's post http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/k ... ment.shtml. His drawings are excellant for showing what I am doing. I simplify it for myself. I do not use pencil marks like he did as I do not have the fence mounted while adjusting the knives.

[charlese]

That's the procedure I use also. The only exception being, my unit does not have the lock washers. I remember calling SS about this and was told if the unit came without them, they are not needed.

[billmayo]

That's the procedure I use also. The only exception being, my unit does not have the lock washers. I remember calling SS about this and was told if the unit came without them, they are not needed.

This is an additional part I use for all bolts, hex head screws and most other screws with a flat under the screw head (a BM mod). I find the #10 stainless steel lockwashers gives me a better feel for snugging the knife wedge and still be able to move the knife. I just feel better using lockwashers to keep bolts/screws from loosening over time. The joiner hex head screws never used a lockwasher but used a flat washer which Shopsmith told me too that they were not needed. I have used these lockwashers on all the joiners where the knives were removed for the past 7 years without any problems. This is only my opinion (disclaimer) since Shopsmith does not use or require the lockwashers.

[beeg]

THANK YOU Bill for the info. I think I'll go back to the method I was using before. But I'll be adding a dollar bill to the mix. Thanks again Bill.

[hfmann]

I've been eyeing this jig for several weeks now. With the sawdust session no longer available, I can't figure out how it works. From the drawings it looks like the dial indicator measures to the top of the metal "outriggers" and not at the top of the blades. So obviously I'm missing something. How do you use this thing?

And the mod that adds a wooden shelf and bolt on top of the magnetic base - that seems like a very good idea. But surely the bolt doesn't go into the magnetic base, does it? What exactly does that bolt do and how is it built into the jig?

Thanks for revisiting this age old subject all.

Hal