mickyd's Woodworking Projects

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

charlese wrote:O.K. - you asked! - - -I see by the "lumber list" you need a width of 48 inches for your finished pieces. The longest piece is 6 3/8" - Let's go with that, (calling it 7") by sticking with that length as the shortest segment we want we want. (the shorter pieces will fall into line and have improved trim allowances)

We won't likely be able to buy a board that's 48" wide, so we'll buy a board that's narrower, but is long enough to contain 7" long parts that total 48" of width. I believe a defect free board - that's nominally 6" wide (actually 5 1/2") and 10 feet long will do the trick. (remember - we will only be able to use 5 inches of that width. Saw kerf will take the rest.)

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X10ft. (We should probably buy one 12 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 6 board feet.

But wait again! You will need some wood for the jig, if you are going to follow the plans. Notice - - the "we" became "you" when work starts.

I learned a couple of cool tricks for estimating B.F. from you after chewing over your post. One, add up widths and assume all pieces are the same length and two, assume the board you buy is a 1" x 6" since 1/2 it's lenght is the amount of B.F. Cool tricks.

The first time I read your post, I didn't read it with math in mind. I read it for methodology.

Here's my take using the methodology.

To get the rough B.F. estimate, 'we' add up all the piece widths to get the overall lumber width estimate. All the pieces combined totals 48"....check. This represents an imaginary board 48" wide.

Then, assume that all the project pieces are the same length equaling the longest piece which is in 'our' case is 6-3/8" rounded to 7".....check. This represents an imaginary board 7" long.

From the above, 'we' have an imaginary board that's 48"W x 7"L.....check.

Here's where things got real fuzzy for me.

If 'we' were to use a 0.00" kerf blade to cut this imaginary 48"W board into a board width that a lumber company stocks, say nominally 6"W (actually 5-1/2"W), 'we' would make 8.7 cuts or rounded to 9 cuts. 'We' now have 9 pieces, each measuring 7"L x 5-1/2"W. 'We' lay these nine 5-1/2"W x 7"L pieces on the floor end to end and 'our' imaginary board measures 5-1/2"W x 63"L. 'We' convert 63" into feet and come up with 5'3" and round up to 6'.

'We' believe a nominal 1"T (actual 3/4"T) defect free board - that's nominally 6" wide (actually 5 1/2"W) and 6 feet long will do the trick. Oh but wait, 'we' forgot that the project pieces are mostly 1/4" thick so that means that we can resaw the 1"T nominal board into two 1/4"T slabs, discarding the center as waste, thus halving the required total length from 6' to 3' .

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X3ft. ('We' should probably buy one 4 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 2 board feet.

Here's my fuzzy. Where / how did 'you' come up with 10' / 6 B.F? Notice how the 'we', 'our' became 'you' at the first sign of a discrepancy!! :D
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:I learned a couple of cool tricks for estimating B.F. from you after chewing over your post. One, add up widths and assume all pieces are the same length and two, assume the board you buy is a 1" x 6" since 1/2 it's lenght is the amount of B.F. Cool tricks.

The first time I read your post, I didn't read it with math in mind. I read it for methodology.

Here's my take using the methodology.

To get the rough B.F. estimate, 'we' add up all the piece widths to get the overall lumber width estimate. All the pieces combined totals 48"....check. This represents an imaginary board 48" wide.

Then, assume that all the project pieces are the same length equaling the longest piece which is in 'our' case is 6-3/8" rounded to 7".....check. This represents an imaginary board 7" long.

From the above, 'we' have an imaginary board that's 48"W x 7"L.....check.

Here's where things got real fuzzy for me.

If 'we' were to use a 0.00" kerf blade to cut this imaginary 48"W board into a board width that a lumber company stocks, say nominally 6"W (actually 5-1/2"W), 'we' would make 8.7 cuts or rounded to 9 cuts. 'We' now have 9 pieces, each measuring 7"L x 5-1/2"W. 'We' lay these nine 5-1/2"W x 7"L pieces on the floor end to end and 'our' imaginary board measures 5-1/2"W x 63"L. 'We' convert 63" into feet and come up with 5'3" and round up to 6'.

'We' believe a nominal 1"T (actual 3/4"T) defect free board - that's nominally 6" wide (actually 5 1/2"W) and 6 feet long will do the trick. Oh but wait, 'we' forgot that the project pieces are mostly 1/4" thick so that means that we can resaw the 1"T nominal board into two 1/4"T slabs, discarding the center as waste, thus halving the required total length from 6' to 3' .

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X3ft. ('We' should probably buy one 4 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 2 board feet.

Here's my fuzzy. Where / how did 'you' come up with 10' / 6 B.F? Notice how the 'we', 'our' became 'you' at the first sign of a discrepancy!! :D

Here's how I figger it!

Get a 4' 1 x 6

Cut the following pieces after squaring one end:

[A] 11"

13 1/2"

[C] 16"

[D] 4 1/4"

Then:

A) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [A1]

B) Rip into 4" (1) [B1] and (1) [B2] 1 3/8" strips

C) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [C1]

D) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [D1)

Then:

A1) Rip into 1/4" x 2 5/8" x 11" strips = (4) [A11]

A11) Rip (4) into 1/2" x 1/4" x 11" strips = (16) [A111]

A111) Cut (8) into 5 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" = (8) 5 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" and (8) 5 1/2" cutoff
------ Cut the cutoffs to 4 3/8" length = (8) 4 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2"

A111) Cut (8) into 6 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" = (8) 6 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" and (8) 4 1/2" cutoff
------ Cut the cutoffs to 4 1/4" length = (8) 4 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/2"

Then:

B1) Rip to 3/8" x 4" x 13 1/2" = (1) [B11]
B11) Cut to 4" length = (3) 4" x 4" x 3/8"

B2) This 3/4" x 1 3/8" x 13 1/2" cutoff is available for making any messed up strips.

Then:

C1) Rip to 1/2" thick = (2) 1/2" x 2 5/8" x 16" [C11]
C11) Rip to 1" width = (2) 1" x 1/2" x 16" [C111]
C111 Cut to 5 1/8" length = (12) 1/2" x 1" x 5 1/8"

Then:

D1) Rip to 1/4" x 2 5/8" x 4 1/4" strips = (4) [D11]
D11) Rip to 1/2" strips = (16) 1/4" x 1/2" x 4 1/4"
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by mickyd »

Holy COW!!!! :eek: :eek: I found the cutting layout optimization software and it's inside jpg's head!!! Does it also calculate board feet? What % waste, .001%? Gotta way to re-compact the sawdust and turn that into strips also?

p.s. So the amount of material needed is 2 B.F. I see. You got schplainin' to do Chuck!! I had to take out a second mortgage on the house to buy the extra 4 B.F. you recommended. :D
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:Holy COW!!!! :eek: :eek: I found the cutting layout optimization software and it's inside jpg's head!!! Does it also calculate board feet? What % waste, .001%? Gotta way to re-compact the sawdust and turn that into strips also?

p.s. So the amount of material needed is 2 B.F. I see. You got schplainin' to do Chuck!! I had to take out a second mortgage on the house to buy the extra 4 B.F. you recommended. :D
Almost all of the waste is saw kerf! This could be reduced by using a bandsaw(It is easier and quicker also).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by robinson46176 »

JPG40504 wrote:Here's how I figger it!

Get a 4' 1 x 6

Cut the following pieces after squaring one end:

[A] 11"

13 1/2"

[C] 16"

[D] 4 1/4"

Then:

A) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [A1]

B) Rip into 4" (1) [B1] and (1) [B2] 1 3/8" strips

C) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [C1]

D) Rip into two 2 5/8" strips = (2) [D1)

Then:

A1) Rip into 1/4" x 2 5/8" x 11" strips = (4) [A11]

A11) Rip (4) into 1/2" x 1/4" x 11" strips = (16) [A111]

A111) Cut (8) into 5 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" = (8) 5 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" and (8) 5 1/2" cutoff
------ Cut the cutoffs to 4 3/8" length = (8) 4 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2"

A111) Cut (8) into 6 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" = (8) 6 3/8" x 1/4" x 1/2" and (8) 4 1/2" cutoff
------ Cut the cutoffs to 4 1/4" length = (8) 4 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/2"

Then:

B1) Rip to 3/8" x 4" x 13 1/2" = (1) [B11]
B11) Cut to 4" length = (3) 4" x 4" x 3/8"

B2) This 3/4" x 1 3/8" x 13 1/2" cutoff is available for making any messed up strips.

Then:

C1) Rip to 1/2" thick = (2) 1/2" x 2 5/8" x 16" [C11]
C11) Rip to 1" width = (2) 1" x 1/2" x 16" [C111]
C111 Cut to 5 1/8" length = (12) 1/2" x 1" x 5 1/8"

Then:

D1) Rip to 1/4" x 2 5/8" x 4 1/4" strips = (4) [D11]
D11) Rip to 1/2" strips = (16) 1/4" x 1/2" x 4 1/4"




I go buy "about" 12 board feet in random widths and lengths being sure I get a couple of boards long enough for any long pieces I might need.
:D :D
I really like making stuff out of native hardwoods... Affordable and here in the Midwest we have a wide enough variety to have one that has about any characteristics you actually need. And we have a lot of it. Then again I won't buy overpriced shoes or clothing just because someone stuck a "hot" name on it. Give me a hunk of something dead and properly burned, a handful of green beans with ham and a pile of smashed taters with gravy and I am happy. Forget about feeding me raw fish, toadstools and anything with rows of suction cups on it... The last time I tried some very expensive champagne I about gagged on it. Where is my diet cola? :D Being who I am I just ignore the "exotics" (expensive stuff) almost completely. If I think exotic I think of those slabs in the west barn of Osage Orange (aka hedge apple or bois d'arc, or "bow-wood") that I sawed up about 15 years ago and have been waiting for a project to come along and shout for it.
When I make something I "might" have a picture laying on the bench but usually the picture is in my head.
I did all of that pencil scratching highly detailed work 40 years ago behind a desk with one drawer full of Rolaids. Now it is just work. If I have to "think & cipher" I would rather just let the shop sit and go brush down the horses or go ride a back road on my old Honda Super Sport. Dang I wish I could teach some of you detail guys the joys of trimming down a 2" X 6" X 8' to a long tapered piece with a hatchet... :D
-
Just poking with a stick... I enjoy that too...
Here is something else I enjoy. Ben's Miil. This is just part of it, I have a VHS tape of it with more projects. Ben became my hero many many years ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2KJbRHO76s
For a couple of decades I sort of was Ben...
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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Schplainin' to Mike

Post by charlese »

Mike - glad you understood how I was getting the board footage! That's just my method. I'm sure there are as many methods as there are woodworkers.

BTW - I actually came up with 5 board feet (see post #179). 5 Bd.Ft. in a 6" wide board is actually longer than you would need, and would actually have some waste, mostly in length. I added a foot for the hell of it for the same reason Farmer buys more than needed. For me, "the sloppy cutter" it's a good practice.

Also 5 Bd.Ft. assumes no re-sawing, just planing. After re-sawing you will need planing or sanding anyway.

P.S. Hope the bank gave you a good rate!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Post by ------------------------ »

Hey Mike!
Hows the progress? I almost had to do an advanced search to find this thread as it is slowly moving down the page:p
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Post by mickyd »

mark-b wrote:Hey Mike!
Hows the progress? I almost had to do an advanced search to find this thread as it is slowly moving down the page:p
Funny you should ask. Past two weeks have been crazy. Too many work hours, not enough play hours. Too many work hours meant no evening energy to do squat. Must be getting old!! :o

Spent the entire day yesterday OUTSIDE working on the project. (sorry to rub it in Rest Of Country, USA ) Had to work in between two quick passing sprinkles but in general, sunny and a real nice day to be out there. That's the nice thing about these ShopSmiths. No dust collection system in place? Wheel 'em outside and use the ground as your dust collection system! Had both the Mark 5 and ER setup. The 5 for the table saw, ER for the undertable router. Got a lot of slow drive bys from guys looking at the machines. :D
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[ATTACH]7975[/ATTACH]
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Most of the day was spent making up the 'stuff' I need to do the project. Made up the router table insert, router fence guard, miter gage
extension, adjustable stop block, the router jig for nesting the small pieces, and a hand planing station. Here's the last three of these.
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[ATTACH]7976[/ATTACH]
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[ATTACH]7977[/ATTACH]
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Since I resawed the wood to get the 1/4" thick pieces, I had to hand plane them to get them down to .250". They were about .280" so I made up a quick planing station and did it the old fashion way. Since all the sides are half lap joints, I wanted to make sure they were as close to dead on as possible since any error is doubled when you put them together.
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[ATTACH]7978[/ATTACH]
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I decided to make a complete lantern before I finish cutting up all the pieces I need for the other two. Could save me from making a lot of scrap. It will either be considered a prototype or lantern 1 of 3, depending on how it comes out. Managed to get the sides glued up for the smallest version. Here's two of the four showing the outer and inner surfaces. Still have the 45 degree chamfer on the corner edges to do along with the 1/8" groove to hold the base. I'll tackle the rest of the pieces for it today and hopefully have a completed assembly.
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[ATTACH]7979[/ATTACH]
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Feel free to critique if you notice anything.
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Mike
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:Funny you should ask. Past two weeks have been crazy. Too many work hours, not enough play hours. Too many work hours meant no evening energy to do squat. Must be getting old!!

Spent the entire day yesterday OUTSIDE working on the project. (sorry to rub it in Rest Of Country, USA ) Had to work in between two quick passing sprinkles but in general, sunny and a real nice day to be out there. That's the nice thing about these ShopSmiths. No dust collection system in place? Wheel 'em outside and use the ground as your dust collection system! Had both the Mark 5 and ER setup. The 5 for the table saw, ER for the undertable router. Got a lot of slow drive bys from guys looking at the machines. :D
.
.
[ATTACH]7975[/ATTACH]
.
.
Most of the day was spent making up the 'stuff' I need to do the project. Made up the router table insert, router fence guard, miter gage
extension, adjustable stop block, the router jig for nesting the small pieces, and a hand planing station. Here's the last three of these.
.
.
[ATTACH]7976[/ATTACH]
.
.
[ATTACH]7977[/ATTACH]
.
.
Since I resawed the wood to get the 1/4" thick pieces, I had to hand plane them to get them down to .250". They were about .280" so I made up a quick planing station and did it the old fashion way. Since all the sides are half lap joints, I wanted to make sure they were as close to dead on as possible since any error is doubled when you put them together.
.
.
[ATTACH]7978[/ATTACH]
.
.
I decided to make a complete lantern before I finish cutting up all the pieces I need for the other two. Could save me from making a lot of scrap. It will either be considered a prototype or lantern 1 of 3, depending on how it comes out. Managed to get the sides glued up for the smallest version. Here's two of the four showing the outer and inner surfaces. Still have the 45 degree chamfer on the corner edges to do along with the 1/8" groove to hold the base. I'll tackle the rest of the pieces for it today and hopefully have a completed assembly.
.
.
[ATTACH]7979[/ATTACH]
.
.
Feel free to critique if you notice anything.

Too many 'shiney' things in one place!:rolleyes:

TGFW:D Was beginning to get 'worried' about your 'absence'.:eek:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
------------------------
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Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am

Post by ------------------------ »

Looking GOOD!!
It is really not so much about the lanterns, but enjoying the hobby:D
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