fence alignment question

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:03 pm

I did the book drill for all the cleaning waxing and alignment today. All went well until I discovered my fence was way out of alignment (1/16- 1/8 inch). I did the quick and dirty method with the miter gage and long hex key. Every time I did the procedure, the out feed end had moved left toward the blade when I checked it. I re read the instructions and followed them. I finally set the out-feed end on the key, backed off to the in-feed side and put a feeler gage into the opening. I then used that to offset the out feed end of the fence to the right and I got a pretty good alignment. I guess I sort of led the movement to the left with the feeler gage measurement. I was very careful to tighten the front screw in the fence and be sure the base and end clamps were set. I carefully removed the fence. Before I try to get any closer, I'd like to know what I am doing wrong. I have done this before, and while it took a few tries, I was able to make it work. Some how I get the feeling I am going to feel silly when I get an answer!:o

PS. I tried this again yesterday, and got the same results. Is there something that I am missing about the base screw or the front clamping unit? Every time I tighten the screw, it moves the outfeed end of the fence to the left 1/8 in. The set screw on the right of the base is backed clear out now, does it stay there after the adjust? ????

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 11:14 pm

Not 100% sure I can say this correctly but I had much the same problem as you - I was doing some cutting on the SS and decided to check the fence alignment (this is on a model 510). Holy Smokes, Batman! It was off a bunch (somewhat more than 1/8") and the adjustment screws that bear on the front rail were all the way in already. Goodness, what do I do now!

Checked the table itself - it was aligned ok. It was the fence. Tried the fence from my other 510 - it was ok. Thought I had a bad fence.

Then I decided to read the operating manual (should have done that first). Well, there is a procedure on page B32-B33 (step 77) where you loosen 2 screws on the underside of the fence). Ah, ha! Did that to align the fence so it was slightly overset and then adjusted in the allen screw to bring it in just right. Problem solved.

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:50 am

I recently aligned two 510's for my brother-in-law and nephew. You have to loosen the two screws underneath the fence close to the front, then I like to place the fence even with the edge of a miter slot, and then lock it down front and rear. Then you have to reach under the table and fence with a phillips screwdriver (watch you don't bump your head on something sharp), and then you can tighten only one of the screws. Then carefully unlock the fence, turn it over, and tighten the second screw. Then check it again on the table to make sure nothing has moved. Don't be surprised if you have to repeat this proceedure several times before being successful.

A big advantage of the 520 is that the adjustment screws are on top, and there are four of them. This beefier fence tends to stay in adjustment better than the 510 fence.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:05 am

I have done exactly what 8iowa has suggested but with a slight twist. I have a piece of wook milled to fir firmly in the miter slot. With that installed, I slide the fence tight against it. This shows whether or not the fence needs alignment. If it does, loosen the screws and then slide the fence back against the piece in the miter slot and clamp it there with two spring clamps. Re-tighten the screw or screws (depending on fence being used).[ATTACH]7908[/ATTACH]

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:39 am

I did that, just as you and the book suggest. What happened was that The fence was square and aligned when I tightened the back screw. After removing the fence to tighten the front screw and reinstalling it was always out of alignment after putting it back on the table. I tightened the heck out of the screw and slid it off very carefully, didn't make any difference I don't think the fence is bent, it seems to be moving when I tighten the screws. The movement was always the same.
Is it possible to loosen the front screw to much? The fence is set now. I ripped a rough cut 4/4 oak board and it worked fine, but I'd like to know what is different about it this time.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:46 am

dlbristol wrote:I did that, just as you and the book suggest. What happened was that The fence was square and aligned when I tightened the back screw. After removing the fence to tighten the front screw and reinstalling it was always out of alignment after putting it back on the table. I tightened the heck out of the screw and slid it off very carefully, didn't make any difference I don't think the fence is bent, it seems to be moving when I tighten the screws. The movement was always the same.
Is it possible to loosen the front screw to much? The fence is set now. I ripped a rough cut 4/4 oak board and it worked fine, but I'd like to know what is different about it this time.

Is it possible that the 'out of alignment condition' is re-created when the outfeed end of the fence is locked down. I'm thinking that the rubber pad on that locking lever may be distorted and when you tighten it the fence is pulled out of alignment.

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:53 am

Maybe! I'll look at that today. Is it possible that something like that could be happening on the front clamp as well? What is the purpose of the hex set screw on the right side of the front clamp? Unless I missed something, the book says to loosen it at the beginning of the process and it doesn't tell you to tighten it again. I know it can be tightened enough that you can't get the fence off. Thanks guys!:)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:14 am

dlbristol wrote:Maybe! I'll look at that today. Is it possible that something like that could be happening on the front clamp as well? What is the purpose of the hex set screw on the right side of the front clamp? Unless I missed something, the book says to loosen it at the beginning of the process and it doesn't tell you to tighten it again. I know it can be tightened enough that you can't get the fence off. Thanks guys!:)

I have always wondered that myself. It seems like there should be another on the left side. When I was using the 510, I kept the setscrew backed off.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:26 am

The 'set screws' accessible from the front of the 500 and 505/10 rip fences have nothing to do with proper aligning of the fence to the miter gauge slot. They should be backed away so as not to hit the alignment rail. Their purpose is to intentionally(temporarily) mis-align the fence for specific operations(using disc sander to sand(joint) a workpiece).

I am not certain this applies to a 520 fence(I do not think it has any setscrews on the face of the fence casting).

Alignment of the fence is accomplished by loosening the screws which attach the fence to the casting and positioning it parallel to the miter slot. Since these screws are attached to the underside, tightening them is not easy.

I have found that by snugging all screws then securely tightening ONE(or more if accessible) after aligning and then carefully remove fence and turn it over. Cautiously, gradually tighten snug but not as yet tightened screws gradually and equalizing the torque(as felt manually) until all screws are tight. Re-check the alignment, and tweak if necessary. This tweaking is done by leaving one screw tight, the rest snug, and rotating the fence relative to the casting in minute increments.

Dusty's clamp the fence to a board tight in the miter slot helps minimize the amount of 'tweaking'.

Yes this can become an exasperating experience !

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:38 pm

JPG40504 wrote:The 'set screws' accessible from the front of the 500 and 505/10 rip fences have nothing to do with proper aligning of the fence to the miter gauge slot. They should be backed away so as not to hit the alignment rail. Their purpose is to intentionally(temporarily) mis-align the fence for specific operations(using disc sander to sand(joint) a workpiece).

I am not certain this applies to a 520 fence(I do not think it has any setscrews on the face of the fence casting).

Alignment of the fence is accomplished by loosening the screws which attach the fence to the casting and positioning it parallel to the miter slot. Since these screws are attached to the underside, tightening them is not easy.

I have found that by snugging all screws then securely tightening ONE(or more if accessible) after aligning and then carefully remove fence and turn it over. Cautiously, gradually tighten snug but not as yet tightened screws gradually and equalizing the torque(as felt manually) until all screws are tight. Re-check the alignment, and tweak if necessary. This tweaking is done by leaving one screw tight, the rest snug, and rotating the fence relative to the casting in minute increments.

Dusty's clamp the fence to a board tight in the miter slot helps minimize the amount of 'tweaking'.

Yes this can become an exasperating experience !

I'm glad you broached this JPG... I just got home and as I was reading this I was asking my self if they were talking about the same "set-screws" I was thinking about (to off set the fence). For my part those should be taken out and stuck back in your SS set-screw drawer. I have seen those loose enough in the hole that they can vibrate in and throw off the fence without being noticed right away. I thought all of the actual adjusting screws were hex-head cap screws.
Yes I like Dusty's stick in the slot too though I usually just slide the fence over to the blade since I think that the alignment to the blade is even more important than the alignment to the table.