stuck chuck

[vanmeter2r]

Hopefully someone can help. Earlier this year, I purchased a 1994 SS mark V that had been sitting outside in sunny Florida for at least 10 yrs. I took several peoples advise from this forum and I decided to rebuild the machine piece by piece and so far it has been a fun, time consuming project. I have everything broke down but the headstock, and that is where the problem lies. I cannot for the life of me, get the chuck off the quill. I do not want to use a hammer but it's starting to look tempting. I have soaked the inside and outside of the chuck with PB BLASTER and even tried wiggling the chuck with a pipe wrench, both with no success. Can anyone please give me some tips on what action I should take to remove the chuck...thanks

robert

[JPG]

Hopefully someone can help. Earlier this year, I purchased a 1994 SS mark V that had been sitting outside in sunny Florida for at least 10 yrs. I took several peoples advise from this forum and I decided to rebuild the machine piece by piece and so far it has been a fun, time consuming project. I have everything broke down but the headstock, and that is where the problem lies. I cannot for the life of me, get the chuck off the quill. I do not want to use a hammer but it's starting to look tempting. I have soaked the inside and outside of the chuck with PB BLASTER and even tried wiggling the chuck with a pipe wrench, both with no success. Can anyone please give me some tips on what action I should take to remove the chuck...thanks

robert

1) How does one 'wiggle' it with a pipe clamp?

2) Does the chuck open/close, and if not, what is it's position.

3) Have you removed the quill etc. from the headstock, or is it still in it?

4) Have you removed the set screw?

If #3 is 'it be out', then soak the chuck in evaporust for a couple of days first!

If #2 is 'it adjusts', put a 1/2" allen wrench in it and tighten securely. This allows you to put torque on it by way of the allen wrench arm.

If #4 is 'yes', what do you see when looking down into the set screw hole?

The 'secret' to this task is to 'get it started moving' and gradually get it to move farther and farther. Once you get it to unsieze by rotation, you can begin getting it to move along the shaft.

This really needs the evaporust soaking first.!!!!!

OVER!

[vanmeter2r]

Thank you for the quick reply,
1. No, the chuck does not wiggle on the shaft. The shaft does turn.
2. The chuck does open and closes all the way.
3. The headstock assembly is still together. I was starting to tear it down when I ran across this problem. I just always assumed the chuck would easily be removed.
4. When I look down the set screw hole, it looks like a flat spot. I assume the shaft has a flat spot for the set screw.

If the chuck is broken loose, will it spin all the way around the shaft or does the chuck also have a flat spot where it will only slide in and out? The spindle knob seems to spin when loosened but, what is it's purpose?

robert

[beeg]

The chuck hole is round, so it will spin freely around the shaft when the screw isn't tightened. You should be able to remove the quill, so that the rest of the headstock can be disassembled. The shaft does have a flat spot for the screw.

[iclark]

I believe that some people have reported good luck by:
spraying PBBlaster into the set screw hole with the SS horizontal,
putting tape or something over the hole,
putting the SS in drill press mode,
extend the quill some for easy access to the top of the chuck,
liberally spray the spindle where it goes into the chuck with PBBlaster (some people seem to like a couple of sprays 30 min apart), and
wait overnight.

just to verify: it was you that removed the set screw from the chuck mount so there is no chance that you are seeing the flat bottom of the hex hole in the set screw - right? you can see the threads for the set screw in the chuck all the way down to the spindle?

[JPG]

Since the quill is still in the headstock, and assuming you are seeing the shaft flat(not the bottom of the set screw hex shaped hole), then you can mount the 12" sanding disc on the output shaft on the opposite end of the headstock to resist the twisting of the 1/2" allen wrench as describes earlier.

[vanmeter2r]

I got the chuck broke free late last night. I would like to thank all of you who tried to help me. I ended up filling a small bucket with PB BLaster and tipped the entire headstock face down into the bucket to let the PB Blaster soak onto the chuck. After about two hours I put vicegrips gently the end of the drive sleeve assy. And turned the chuck back and forth with a large pipe wrench until the chuck broke free. Everything turned out ok, but the inside of the chuck had heavy rust buildup. I cleaned the rust off the inside of the chuck by using my dremmel with a flapper sanding attachment which fit perfectly, then finnished the inside by using a brass dremmel wire wheel. I will be tearing down the rest of the headstock today, hopefully no problems.

[nuhobby]

Congratulations!

If, during your next rebuild steps, you go for replacing the Quill bearing, then the removal of all the quill-tip rust is very important. The slightest bit of rust accumulation can play heck with changing the bearing (don't ask me how I know that... ). If you don't have a micrometer, then another method to estimate the proper quill dimensions is the fit of a known-good chuck or arbor or spur-drive piece. Shopsmiths are famous for that "just so" audible pop, not quite as loud as a wine-bottle cork, when you pull these pieces off the quill.

[vanmeter2r]

Hello all;

Been a while since I posted, but I would like to let everyone know, I completely rebuilt the shopsmith (thanks to all forum members) and I am posting some before pictures. I will take some after pictures soon to show everyone the completed job. I did have back surgery 2 weeks ago so anything I did not get done before that just will have to wait. [ATTACH]9710[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9711[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9712[/ATTACH]

[heathicus]

Wow, that must have been quite a challenging project...